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  1. #1

    Water Pump Rebuild Services

    Anyone used the Flying Dutchman service on a water pump? I kept my OEM pump when I removed it (was leaking out the weep hole) and put a Cardone Reman unit on the car. I'd really like to get my OE one rebuilt and put back on since I'm going to be digging into the car again. Just have more confidence in the impeller of my OE unit vs the Cardone one.

    If no experience with this company but you know of someone that rebuilds them please let me know. I'd source a NOS unit but last I saw they were $400 and most didn't have a warranty with them anymore from sitting around so long.

  2. #2
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    There have been new pumps made since your car was built. They are not 25 year old stock sitting on a shelf lol. Also, they are about $180 for factory Mopar pumps. Not $400.

  3. #3
    I thought I heard that most of those $180 units people were getting were actually the reman units with the cheap plastic impellers. When I talked to Dan last week it didn't sound like they were readily available as he said I could also source a good used unit. If you have line of sight to a genuine good new Mopar unit please let me know.

  4. #4
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    As far as I'm aware all Gen II water pumps have plastic impellers? I have changed out 3 water pumps, 2 on my car due to bearing seal issues (leaking through the weep hole) and another on a friends car that had the melted impeller.

    Being in the UK I have to take a gamble on water pumps, the first 2 I purchased were mopar pumps, both failed and because I purchased from mopar parts overstock their parts do not come with a guarantee.

    The last pump I bought was from Rock Auto, not genuine mopar and it did come with a guarantee.

    Mopar pump from a 2001 Viper
    IMG-20190831-WA0016.jpg

    New pump
    IMG-20190831-WA0015.jpg

  5. #5
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    I believe the trouble started in '00 or '01 when they stopped using metal impellers.

  6. #6
    there is a company called FlowKooler that rebuilds waterpumps with a highflow impeller.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTS Dean View Post
    I believe the trouble started in '00 or '01 when they stopped using metal impellers.
    My recollection is the same.

  8. #8
    That was my understanding as well. The Cardone unit I have on the car now was plastic and I may just stick with it but since I have the old one off my car and have 5-6 weeks until I get my gaskets to do my timing cover gasket change I figured now would be a good time to have this one rebuilt or source a good original pre-2000 Viper unit. I've seen the ones on the overstock sights but they are all the plastic impeller style and I was also assuming they actually don't have them since 90% of what I order through those venues gets canceled due to being actually out of stock.

  9. #9
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    they never used a metal impeller stock on factory gen2 water pumps, there was brown plastic and black plastic. 9/10 a1 rebuilds we had done failed, the impeller splits in the middle. because they basically melt a hex nut into a soft plastic.

  10. #10
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    My RockAuto replacement pump has been a solid replacement for years...to include withstanding mega amounts of belt tension from my old ROE systems...so much belt tension at 15 PSI of boost that it broke the front AC mounts. So to me at least the bearings they use can withstand some abuse.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanLS.GEN2 View Post
    they never used a metal impeller stock on factory gen2 water pumps, there was brown plastic and black plastic. 9/10 a1 rebuilds we had done failed, the impeller splits in the middle. because they basically melt a hex nut into a soft plastic.
    Thanks Ryan, that was my understanding too.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTS Dean View Post
    I believe the trouble started in '00 or '01 when they stopped using metal impellers.
    YUP. Different flimsy plastic impeller in 01-02. Overheat spike complaints at higher RPMS. TSB resulted

    See, Old Guys can still have good recall.......
    Last edited by JonB ~ PartsRack; 06-10-2021 at 03:04 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB ~ PartsRack View Post
    YUP. Different flimsy plastic impeller in 01-02. Overheat spike complaints at higher RPMS. TSB resulted

    See, Old Guys can still have good recall.......
    What was stated in the TSB? Ive got an ‘01 and its always in the back of my mind…

  14. #14
    Well, after placed about half a dozen orders for new mopar units for them all to be canceled due to part no longer being available I reached out to FlowKooler (Flying Dutchman wont rebuild due to concerns of breaking the plastic impeller) and they have already rebuilt some Viper pumps so have the CAD design already for a metal impeller. As such I just sent out my factory pump to them for which they will sand blast and clean the pump then rebuild it with all new seals, bearing and their metal impeller design. Supposed to be high flow but I really didn't care about that, was more excited to hear about them already having a metal impeller for the rebuild so I don't have to worry about my water pump shaft cracking or melting anymore on my cardone unit that is on the car now.

    Will post pictures once I receive it back. They said it would be about a 5 week turnaround so sounds like I will get my replacement gaskets about the same time as the rebuilt pump.

    In the interim, if anyone has a good condition thermostat housing they would be willing to part with let me know. My bleeder screw seized in mine and stripped out pretty bad. I tried drilling it out and tapping new threads but it leaked after putting a new plug in there. As such I had to seal it off and use a Roe Bleeder Kit. I would prefer not to need that Roe kit in the system thus why I'd like to find a good housing.

  15. #15
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    Why the issue with the Roe bleeder? I've used one for close to 20 years and never had any problems with it.

  16. #16
    It's not so much that I have an issue with it, I just would prefer to not have the extra places of potential failure/leaks if nothing more than added piece of mind. If I can't locate a thermostat housing for fairly cheap then I'll stick with it since it's not really a high failure part. I just figured that since I was ripping things apart all over again I would return that part back to stock if I could easy do so.

  17. #17
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    The Roe bleeder is so much easier to use and is also the highest point in the system. I mean, it's a freaking radiator drain cock. Those are typically not things you have to worry about lol.

  18. #18
    Use a vacuum bleeder and you won't need to touch anything on the system.

  19. #19
    Did you call them to get the pump going? I have a request into them but haven't heard back. I'd like to get mine going around the same time, as it's likely to be easier (perhaps more consistent) to do multiple at the same time.

  20. #20
    I actually got a response back same day from submitting a request through their e-mail contact function on their website. You should see an icon that looks like a letter on the right side of you screen. I filled in the form there. The person I've been working with is named Kathy. She said the cost to rebuild with the metal impeller will be $299 since they already had the design in their system. If it was the first time to do a pump then the cost is significantly higher.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by 98RedGTS View Post
    I actually got a response back same day from submitting a request through their e-mail contact function on their website. You should see an icon that looks like a letter on the right side of you screen. I filled in the form there. The person I've been working with is named Kathy. She said the cost to rebuild with the metal impeller will be $299 since they already had the design in their system. If it was the first time to do a pump then the cost is significantly higher.
    Thanks. I did the same about a week ago. Perhaps they thought it was a duplicate. I'll reach back out to them and get in the queue.

  22. #22
    You could try e-mailing direct. The e-mail address of the person I was working with is support@thebrassworks.net.

  23. #23
    Found a thermostat housing locally. It's got some tarnish on it that I haven't been able to get off with dawn or brake cleaner and scrubbing with a hard plastic bristle brush. Anyone have any tricks to clean it up better? Thought about painting it but if this is as clean as it will get I'll just put it on as good enough since it's not real bad anyway. Picture makes it look much better than in real life. Think it's oil from sitting in the PO work bench box for years.

    P.S. - Water Pump arrived at FlowKooler so with any luck I may get it back end of the month.

    housing.jpg

  24. #24
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    I restore some old vintage motorcycles and use muriatic acid to clean aluminum and magnesium... DONT submerge the part just lightly brush the acid, I use scotchbrite (don't use steel wool) and rinse right away, always works for me to clean the tarnish. It will turn black right away but scrub with water and it will come off. Do small area first

  25. #25
    Find someone local who does vapor blasting. A small part like that won't be expensive and it'll come out looking brand new. Dry ice blasting is equally effective.


 
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