Window Regulator Replacement Reinforcement How To

[BSLSK]

I just completed the window regulator Viper Store reinforcement kit installation over the weekend. Ran into a few speed bumps but overall it wasn't too difficult. I couldn't find a comprehensive guide anywhere, so I decided to try and write a basic one. With that said, I HIGHLY recommend you order a DSE Window Boss kit prior to this because you can knock two birds out with one stone. And it will be much easier to install the window boss kit since you'll need to remove the windows. Links to order the products are below. FYI, I wouldn't bother ordering the "special tool" for the regulator reinforcement kit. I didn't need to use it all.

Keep in mind you should only use the reinforcement kit if you're looking to reinforce a regulator that has no issues or has a simple crack/break as shown below. If it is a complicated break, you will need to replace the regulator.
20200412_120020.jpg

https://www.theviperstore.com/Viper5...Mechanical.htm
https://www.dougshelbyengineering.co...indow-boss-kit

Things you'll need:
1. Products in links above.
2. 9mm and 10mm socket and 10mm open wrench.
3. T20 and T25 torx.
4. #2 Philips head screwdriver.
5. Trim removal tool.
6. Flathead screwdriver
7. 2 additional #10-32 x 1/2" screws from the hardware store. I bought a 4 pack for 2 regulators.
PXL_20210425_174057549.jpg

Step 1. Remove the door panel. I followed the instructions listed here http://billswebspace.com/viper.html#...SpeakerUpgrade. It's simple, use a small trim tool to pop off the two trim covers one located by the door hand hole and the other located behind the door handle. Once the trim covers are removed, it will reveal 2 T25 torx screws that need to be removed. If you have a 2015+ there is another one located behind the airbag cover on the top rear of the door. Next, you will pull at the edges of the door panel to pop the inner push pins out of their hole. I found it easiest to start from the top rear of the panel. Next, go around and unplug all the wiring harnesses. I didn't bother removing the door handle cable as it allowed enough length for me to move the panel around without hurting the cable (I just placed a box underneath it).

Step 2. Once you have the panel removed and all wire harnesses disconnected, start by removing the speaker. You'll need to do this to access the clip for the window. It is held in place by 3 9mm super long screws. So be prepared to crank for a while with your socket wrench. Once the speaker is loose, disconnect the wiring harness connected to it and place the speaker in a safe spot.
Speaker Removal.jpg

Step 3. The next step will be removing the window. Start by reconnecting the wire harness for the window switch to the door panel. You will need to adjust the height of the window to be able to access the bolts to the rear shuttle through the holes pictured below. Once you have the window in the correct position, you can disconnect the wire harness again and place the door panel in a space spot so you can work. You will want to remove the inner window seal at the top of the door by gently prying up with your fingers. Next, remove the 2 bolts in the rear shuttle with a 10mm socket (I like to keep 1 bolt barely in for the next step). Then find the front shuttle (white plastic thing) through the speaker hole. You should see a metal spring clip in the shuttle. You will need to pop it off by using a flat head screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the plastic. You should be able to press in on the glass and pop the tab out of the front shuttle; thus, freeing the glass from the front shuttle. Remove the rear bolt if you kept one in place and make sure to hold onto the glass or it may fall into the door and get damaged. You should now be able to remove the glass from the top of the door carefully.
Window Holes.jpg

Step 4. Next you can remove the 6 10mm nuts holding the regulator in place. Locations in the picture below. Next disconnect the wire harness to the regulator motor. You may have to release the white push pin holding the harness in place to disconnect it.
Regulator Screws.jpg

Step 5. Now the regulator should be free. To remove it from the door will take some finesse. Start by moving the entire regulator assembly as far forward as you can. This should give you enough room to be able to pop the rear track out of the opening and from there you should be able to snake the rest of it out.

[BSLSK]

Step 6. Install the reinforcement kit as instructed T20 torx will be needed. Here is where you'll need to use the #10-32 x 1/2" hardware you purchased as the 2 short screws provided in the kit are too short. The end product should look like the picture below. Remember to wrap the regulator to the reinforcement piece as tightly as possible. I went over with at least 3 layers of electrical tape for added rigidity.
Attachment 47629

Step 7. Reinstall everything in reverse order. Remember to install your DSE Window Boss Kit prior to putting the glass back in.

Final step. Check the windows are operating normally. I had an issue where the driver's side would not go up, only down. I ended up needing to disconnect the battery and reconnecting. Apparently this is an issue with leaving the door open for too long?

Any questions, feel free to ask. Best of luck.

[Pdramarocks]

Thank you for posting this!

[Hawk]

Thanks for the post, I have been looking at these kits as well as adding the sound dampening shown on this post
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ifference-mods

[Scott_in_fl]

BSLSK, you 'da man!!! I was going to do this but have not found the time. I have everything sitting in the garage ready to go. So glad to see a good pictorial up. Well done!

[Bill Pemberton]

Great pics and explanation. This is a perfect reason why folks need to join VOA and not just use the Forum, but to ensure it and the Club are here for many years to come. Tech info, history, modifications, etc. are pretty easy to find on a Forum ( not so much on Facebook, etc. ) and great to have when we are in need. Thanks for your membership and support and hopefully it will also help others consider the small amount to spend to keep things fun and viable for some many Viper Owners.

[City]

Copied to the "How To" area. NICE! Thanks for this effort.

[ChadB]

This is perfect, I am fighting this issue right now and currently waiting on a regulator and the reinforcement kit. I am assuming the reinforcement kit will not support this break so I went ahead and ordered a regulator as well. Viper Window regulator.jpg

[sonicbloo]

This is perfect, I am fighting this issue right now and currently waiting on a regulator and the reinforcement kit. I am assuming the reinforcement kit will not support this break so I went ahead and ordered a regulator as well.

I think the reinforcement kit would work ok on the old regulator, but you would have to remove it to fix anyway, so might as well use the new one. Keep the old one as a spare or sell it on

[Franchise]

Good thread! Just started hearing "grmbling sounds" from my door...sounds like gears moving to lift the window...?...

[Franchise]

what sound do you hear if the window regulator is cracked or bad?

[Whopperman]

what sound do you hear if the window regulator is cracked or bad?

I think the sound stays the same, but once it breaks/ goes bad I've heard the window stops working or falls in the door (shattering in this case)

[Hootie]

I'm my case it sounded normal. The signs it was cracked were:
The window sat crooked against the brake duct. The top portion of the window was almost hitting the brake duct while the bottom had a ~1/4" gap.
The window wasn't indexing right. It would drop to open the door, but not a nice even ~1/2" drop front and back. When in the dropped position, it BARELY cleared the roof and sometimes would hit.

From what I can tell, the window was going up to the weatherstrip, then the cracked tube would start to spread apart resulting in the good tube side (front seems to be less prone to breaking) being lifted further before being turned off by the hall effect sensor. End result the non-broken side gets 'overdriven' which tilts the glass. Then when it indexes down, it first has to account for the 'overdriven'' side so it wouldn't drop far enough to clear the roof reliably.

Took my panel off, could see the break clearly.