Read some things about frying ECUs when jumping starting......
Read some things about frying ECUs when jumping starting......
I think I chose a bolt on the frame
What frame
j/k
It worked out ok....I'll look around for a frame bolt next time.....something tells me I'm going to be doing this a lot
It has a tender in the trunk. It sat for four days and wouldn't start....with a 'new' battery per PO. I'm never going to remember to hook up a tender if I have to do it every time I park the car.....it should be able to go a couple days without killing a battery. I will keep my fingers crossed that maybe it was the starting, pulling on the trailer, starting, pulling off, starting pulling into garage, starting to hear exhaust....3-4 minutes runs without really warming it up and allowing charging had some impact last weekend.....
On both of the GEN 2s I have had, I had to run jumper cables from another car and charge the other cars battery to charge my dead battery. Most battery chargers will quit charging when hooked to the available jumper ports with out doing this. I never tried a big booster like yours. For the negative cable though the best spot is the bolt just below the positive terminal and slightly to the left. Like icprey says though, "Buy a tender". Then attach the permanent leads directly to the battery in the rear. Most tenders come with a capped pigtail for easy plug in to.
Check the voltage after full charge, also check connections at battery.
If it drains battery in a couple of days...you have a bad battery...OR, you have an abnormal drain (should not exceed 35 milliamps after all circuits have timed out (a couple of minutes) when doing Ignition Off Draw test.
I would strongly suggest that you NEVER use a high "boost to start" switch found on many chargers as PCM may get fried.
Bookmarks