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  1. #1
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    Window Regulator Versions

    I'm replacing my window regulators and ordered the latest revision, 4865611AI. The parts arrived in boxes marked with the AI revision, but the actual regulator is marked 4865611AH. I bought both sides, so I also have 4865610AH, which also came in Mopar boxes labeled 4865610AI.

    Does anyone know what is different between these versions? I'm not sure if I should just install them and move on or send them back.

  2. #2
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    What does the seller say?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hootie View Post
    I'm replacing my window regulators and ordered the latest revision, 4865611AI. The parts arrived in boxes marked with the AI revision, but the actual regulator is marked 4865611AH. I bought both sides, so I also have 4865610AH, which also came in Mopar boxes labeled 4865610AI.

    Does anyone know what is different between these versions? I'm not sure if I should just install them and move on or send them back.
    They probably made the plastic tube even more fragile in the newer version.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    They probably made the plastic tube even more fragile in the newer version.
    Haha, both of mine are about to go soon. What a crappy design wow.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by sadil View Post
    Haha, both of mine are about to go soon. What a crappy design wow.
    The crappy part is they started using this design in 03 and never fixed it.

  6. #6
    I agree with Jon, check with the seller. I doubt there is much of a difference, if any. Just make sure to install the reinforcement kit while you're at it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old School View Post
    The crappy part is they started using this design in 03 and never fixed it.
    And that they used to cost $1,400!
    2008 SRT10 Open Roof (1 of 2)
    2022 BMW X5M Comp
    Resident Misanthrope

  8. #8
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    I sent them a message we'll see if I hear back. I'm betting it's incredibly minor... We do this at work all the time where even an update to a specification drives a new revision which is identical to the old part.
    I did get the reinforcements with them, from the viper store, but the kit instructions don't match the website instructions. Two of my screws are 3/8" instead of 5/8" which is what the website shows. The 3/8" is definately too short, but the printed instructions say 3/8". They aren't stainless screws either, unless they are 400 series and magnetic. I'm terrified bending the tubes to fit the bracket! The short tube doesn't line up with the regulator holes in the reinforcement either.... Appears the tube is about 1/8" too long and there's no way way to shorten it with bend radius on the short tube. Overall seems like forcing it to fit the steel bracket reinforcement will actually break it with so much pressure on it. I'm about 100% sure those little plastic holes in the regulator chargers will snap off with the tension required to fit them. Tabs for the reinforcement brackets are to wide to sit flush on the regulator as well, exacerbating the problem I think this reinforcement sucks honestly and I'm about to just put the new regulator in and call it a day without them.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hootie View Post
    I sent them a message we'll see if I hear back. I'm betting it's incredibly minor... We do this at work all the time where even an update to a specification drives a new revision which is identical to the old part.
    I did get the reinforcements with them, from the viper store, but the kit instructions don't match the website instructions. Two of my screws are 3/8" instead of 5/8" which is what the website shows. The 3/8" is definately too short, but the printed instructions say 3/8". They aren't stainless screws either, unless they are 400 series and magnetic. I'm terrified bending the tubes to fit the bracket! The short tube doesn't line up with the regulator holes in the reinforcement either.... Appears the tube is about 1/8" too long and there's no way way to shorten it with bend radius on the short tube. Overall seems like forcing it to fit the steel bracket reinforcement will actually break it with so much pressure on it. I'm about 100% sure those little plastic holes in the regulator chargers will snap off with the tension required to fit them. Tabs for the reinforcement brackets are to wide to sit flush on the regulator as well, exacerbating the problem I think this reinforcement sucks honestly and I'm about to just put the new regulator in and call it a day without them.
    Have you contacted the Viper Store about the reinforcements?

  10. #10
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    I wanted to pull the old ones out to make sure it's not the new regulator that's not right first. But I'm thinking the reinforcement sucks as the two kits I bought are identical and don't fit either new regulator well. I'll reach out to them soon.

  11. #11
    I replaced my window regulator twice and it started to fail again now, what a crappy thing since the old days.

    Is there like a better aftermarlet ark regulator?

  12. #12
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    Helped a friend install the reinforcement a while back. In order to get one of the short screws in, we first attached it with a longer screw to "form" the reinforcement to the regulator.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADVIPER View Post
    I replaced my window regulator twice and it started to fail again now, what a crappy thing since the old days.

    Is there like a better aftermarlet ark regulator?
    One was in the works many years ago, but never came to fruition. Pretty much all of that adventure was documented here on the other site:

    https://www.viperclub.org/vca/posts/3107836/

    There was some misinformation in that thread (mostly about the projected Gen 5 window regulator which turned out to be the same crappy part), but for the most part, everything is there.

    The regulator Mr. Mills was pursuing was based on a design he did for the Prowler folks, which uses the same shitty window regulator setup, and suffers from the same issues. You can see it on his site if you scroll down about half way on his page:

    https://jeffersonautocollision.com/prowler-parts/

    As you can (hopefully) see, it is a totally different gear/lever design that would not suffer from the same issues. Here's a good video showing an install into a Prowler:



    At one point, he had posted a video of the exact same thing working in a Viper (Gen 3 or 4, don't remember). The only issue was that he couldn't get the auto indexing (glass drop) or express down features to work:

    Update on the regulator project.
    After three weeks of work, investment and research I am sorry to say that the regulator project doesn’t look like it is going to work. The body control module is much more involved with the regulator motor that I originally thought it might be. The motor has a built in “Hall signal”. This is the signal that the body module uses to tell the motor what to do. Window drop, express down and etc. It has a magnet on the armature and a sensor in the wiring pigtail that keeps track of the revolutions of the armature and relays this information to the control module. After a lot of fabricating and trial and error I have the window going up and down just fine but unless some electrical engineer can come up with a work around for the Hall signal I guess we are “dead in the water”
    Tom
    Shortly after that, the Gen 5 came out with the supposedly newer, better window regulators that were backwards compatible with the Gen 3/4 cars, so people generally lost interest.

    Fast forward to today, and we are back in the same boat. His solution was by far the best hope we had, but no one was able to step up and solve the BCM issue.

    /history lesson

  14. #14
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    Have you read this thread, I put pics on page 2 of my experience with the fixing kit (on my gen 3) I've had no issues since. Is it possible they sent the wrong one for your gen 5?

    https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...Install-GEN-IV

  15. #15
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    14SRT My passenger side was replaced in 2017 under warranty. The viper tech told me this was an improved design over stock. I haven't yet found my invoice for the part#. My drivers is still great, fingers crossed.

  16. #16
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    I think the AH vs AI might even be a packaging issue. From what I see online for sale (ebay etc) they are listed as AI, have AI on the boxes, but zooming into the actual parts you can see they are marked AH. I'm going to just roll with it. Seller directed me to another department who also didn't know if there is a difference.
    I did see that other thread. My repair kit looks to be exactly the same. For those that did it, on one screw on each end, were you able to get the screws or nuts flush? It looks like they aren't tightened all the way, which makes me think mine is right but I'm expecting it to fit in a way that it won't.
    I'll lay the repair kit against the existing regulator in the door before removing it to see if it lines up right.

  17. #17
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    Cashcorn,
    I believe the invoice will show AI. That is how I bought it, how my receipts are, the Mopar official packaging and my invoice. Only the actual part itself days AH. I'd imagine they would write it up with the p/n in their system and on the box.

  18. #18
    I just replaced mine again. I've been through 4 replacements and I don't even drive the car or roll down the windows). $1400.

  19. #19
    I never use the auto up/down feature. I raise and lower them a little at a time by bumping the button. Don't know if it helps, but so far, OK. Probably just jinxed myself.


 

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