Finally weighed the Viper

[Tamvette]

I finally got around to weighing my car. This won't help most people as I have below changes to the car but I thought it could be an interesting data point.

Mods:
Diff & Tranny cooler (Custom, I used tilton pumps)
Tillett B7 Screamer seats
APR Splitter and Wing (71")
Battery (https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-h5-rs/)
DSE Delrin control arm bushings, tranny mount, air intake box shield
Calvo engine mounts
TKO motorsports swaybar endlinks, toe link, bump steer kit
MCS Coilovers (Single adjustables)
Viper TA sway bars
Hoosier R7 (315/18, 345/19)
SW2 OEM wheels
1/2 tank gas


PXL_20201013_221318637.MP.jpg

With me sitting in it:

download_20201013_161734.jpg


Exactly 1772 lbs in between these two from the same scale (Ariel Atom 3s)

PXL_20201014_234500322.MP.jpg

IMG_20200603_123415_MP.jpg

[Bryan Savage]

2019-09-28 Scales.jpg

Me out. I forget how much fuel.

VE BBK
Forgeline CF206 carbon fiber wheels
Mantic twin plate clutch & flywheel
Belanger headers and 3-inch catless exhaust
ACR Extreme diffuser

[TA Two Oh]

Great thread! Well, for me at least. Sweet Ariel Atom. I'd love to own one. I instructed for them when they came to town with a bunch of the Chevy Cobalt powered versions. Unfortunately the school cars were set up to massively understeer for safety so I didn't get to sample the proper experience.

So many people think that Vipers are big and fat... massive, heavy, truck-engine-ed monsters. I love telling my Porsche friends that our cars are only about 3' apart in length. (991 and 992 series 911's, built from 2013 onward). They typically reply that there's absolutely no way my Viper is only 3" longer than their car. So I agree with them; it isn't. Then I explain that it's THEIR car that's 3" longer than mine. Even the cute little 997's are pretty much the same length as our cars, depending on the model.

And when it comes to weight, Gen V's are lighter than almost every other car with comparable power, including Corvettes and Porsches. (McLaren's and the latest -Canadian built "had-to-add-that-for-Bryan" Ford GT's with their tiny little V6 and $500K price tags are an exception, both having a whizzy all carbon monocell.) Also the few other lightweights that are in a completely different price stratosphere can beat us on the scales.

Nice to see that sub 3300 pound weight Bryan! Tamvette, you only need to find 20 pounds. I weighed my car when I first got it. Completely stock with a full-to-the-brim tank, a passenger footwell Fire Extinguisher, hastily homemade steel endplates (needed them for numbers since the car was ceramic coated and I discovered at the 11th hour that the required numbers wouldn't stick to the paint) and Teamtech belts.
Viper on Scale2.jpg
Viper on Scale.jpg
Before the snow flew- we have almost ten inches of it already- I took the car to a truck stop, with as little fuel as I could stomach, now packing Bellanger mufflers and primary cat delete exhaust. i really hoped to see a sub 3300 but I'm 23 pounds over, assuming that the scale is even remotely accurate in that weight range. 1510 kg is 3322 pounds. A lightweight battery might take me across the line.

I just pulled my seat to finally install a lowering kit after having to look at the reflections of traffic lights in my hood for 5.5 years to know whether the light was red or green. It felt like it weighed about 700-800 pounds. So I could always yank my passenger seat if I decide to bariatric my car.
IMG_3189.jpg
IMG_3188.jpg

[Tamvette]

Great thread! Well, for me at least. Sweet Ariel Atom. I'd love to own one. I instructed for them when they came to town with a bunch of the Chevy Cobalt powered versions. Unfortunately the school cars were set up to massively understeer for safety so I didn't get to sample the proper experience.

So many people think that Vipers are big and fat... massive, heavy, truck-engine-ed monsters. I love telling my Porsche friends that our cars are only about 3' apart in length. (991 and 992 series 911's, built from 2013 onward). They typically reply that there's absolutely no way my Viper is only 3" longer than their car. So I agree with them; it isn't. Then I explain that it's THEIR car that's 3" longer than mine. Even the cute little 997's are pretty much the same length as our cars, depending on the model.

And when it comes to weight, Gen V's are lighter than almost every other car with comparable power, including Corvettes and Porsches. (McLaren's and the latest -Canadian built "had-to-add-that-for-Bryan" Ford GT's with their tiny little V6 and $500K price tags are an exception, both having a whizzy all carbon monocell.) Also the few other lightweights that are in a completely different price stratosphere can beat us on the scales.

Nice to see that sub 3300 pound weight Bryan! Tamvette, you only need to find 20 pounds. I weighed my car when I first got it. Completely stock with a full-to-the-brim tank, a passenger footwell Fire Extinguisher, hastily homemade steel endplates (needed them for numbers since the car was ceramic coated and I discovered at the 11th hour that the required numbers wouldn't stick to the paint) and Teamtech belts.
Viper on Scale2.jpg
Viper on Scale.jpg
Before the snow flew- we have almost ten inches of it already- I took the car to a truck stop, with as little fuel as I could stomach, now packing Bellanger mufflers and primary cat delete exhaust. i really hoped to see a sub 3300 but I'm 23 pounds over, assuming that the scale is even remotely accurate in that weight range. 1510 kg is 3322 pounds. A lightweight battery might take me across the line.

I just pulled my seat to finally install a lowering kit after having to look at the reflections of traffic lights in my hood for 5.5 years to know whether the light was red or green. It felt like it weighed about 700-800 pounds. So I could always yank my passenger seat if I decide to bariatric my car.
IMG_3189.jpg
IMG_3188.jpg

Factory alignment and tire setup for the Ariel is designed for sliding around (that's the best excuse I came up for them) After changing the alignment and wheel/tire setup, now I can actually go after lap times. I am going to change the aero very soon. Unfortunately the season is ending but I heard rumors of more November track days locally, one can only hope

Really happy with Viper's current form, I might switch to slicks one day which should give me that 20 lbs, however I like keeping the setup stable and just going for lap times.

[Arizona Vipers]

Factory alignment and tire setup for the Ariel is designed for sliding around (that's the best excuse I came up for them) After changing the alignment and wheel/tire setup, now I can actually go after lap times. I am going to change the aero very soon. Unfortunately the season is ending but I heard rumors of more November track days locally, one can only hope

Really happy with Viper's current form, I might switch to slicks one day which should give me that 20 lbs, however I like keeping the setup stable and just going for lap times.

Even A7's over R7's will save 8lbs and get you 2+ seconds over R7's, but will last 1/3rd as long.....

[Tamvette]

Even A7's over R7's will save 8lbs and get you 2+ seconds over R7's, but will last 1/3rd as long.....

I am considering A7s for next set for the Viper. I am already using it for the Atom but since it doesn't weigh anything, it lasts forever and financially makes sense.

How many heat cycles and/or days do A7s last for you? If i do that switch, I might actually invest in tire warmers but can't convince myself to jack up the car end of every session.

[GTS Dean]

Really happy with Viper's current form, I might switch to slicks one day which should give me that 20 lbs, however I like keeping the setup stable and just going for lap times.

Re:1510kg - Heavy truck scales only weigh to the nearest 20lb. increment, or 9kg. It's a reasonable gross weight, but not as accurate as summing 4 corner scales certified to a ~1500# each.

[TA Two Oh]

Re:1510kg - Heavy truck scales only weigh to the nearest 20lb. increment, or 9kg. It's a reasonable gross weight, but not as accurate as summing 4 corner scales certified to a ~1500# each.

Good to know. As I drove on, I did notice that the jumps were all multiples of ten but I didn't apply that observation to my actual reading; that makes perfect sense. So I'm within a 10 kg (22 pound) window somewhere presuming that it rounds down for the first 5 kg over and up for more than 5 kg past that. I can swing by the truck scale anytime I want and it's free. But you do tend to get what you pay for. The bottom line being that I need to get back on a Longacre to know for certain what my car weighs.

[Tamvette]

Re:1510kg - Heavy truck scales only weigh to the nearest 20lb. increment, or 9kg. It's a reasonable gross weight, but not as accurate as summing 4 corner scales certified to a ~1500# each.

I am confused, I didn't use a truck scale

[J TNT]

2019-09-28 Scales.jpg

Me out. I forget how much fuel.

VE BBK
Forgeline CF206 carbon fiber wheels
Mantic twin plate clutch & flywheel
Belanger headers and 3-inch catless exhaust
ACR Extreme diffuser

Nice Set up Bryan !!!
How much lighter are your CF Wheels compared to SW 2’s ?
Thanks!

[Bryan Savage]

Nice Set up Bryan !!!
How much lighter are your CF Wheels compared to SW 2’s ?
Thanks!

I never weighed the CF wheels by themselves. I had Forgeline install the tires. They told me they're both 18 pounds each, 20x10 in front and 20x12 in the back.

[serpent]

I weighed my 15 srt with i believe 1/3 tank of gas.
15 SRT w/18 speaker
3 piece heavy forgelines on 19/20 ps4s tires
MCS stage 1
ARH muffler w/secondary cat delete. Car weighed somewhere around 3370

I need to weigh it again with two piece rotors, stock wheels 18/19 setuo.

[Arizona Vipers]

So 3250 lbs with no fuel, nice! CCB's and Michelin/Pirelli slicks would drop you another 110lbs

[GTSilver]

Screenshot_20201028_001912_com.facebook.katana.jpg

This was with me in car as well, would love to add Nth Moto clutch to save more weight and a lightweight battery as well.

[13COBRA]

My Comp Coupe is 2,940# with no fuel or driver. I'm 230# and a full fuel cell is 156#, and then 4 gallons of water/ice in the CoolShirt Cooler nets me roughly 3,350#.

[catwood]

My X with me and loaded up with all the fluids is 3500 lbs. or at least that what I currently tell NASA.

[Steve M]

Pffft. Let me know when you get on my level: 3,600+ lbs race weight.

Bigger is better, right?

[Policy Limits]

My car is pretty light...until my fat ass gets in...especially after taco consumption.

[Fulltilt]

You guys got me thinking about our Comp Coupes. We haven't raced for several years but I found a corner weight sheet from 2014. Chassis #4 weighed 2,894lbs. Interesting because I think there is still a little weight that could be pulled out, not much but a little (could get rid of the lightweight headlights, run an even lighter battery, carbon undertray). Sometime in the next month or 2 I would like to weigh both Comp Coupes and my Gen 5.

[ViperGeorge]

This post is probably directed to Arizona or anyone else that has strived to reduce weight. It would be interesting to see a list of measures that could or have been taken to reduce weight. The list should include weight saved, price and effort. For example going to a Lithium Ion battery would be easy and would cost something like $900. On an ACR maybe you would save 15 pounds. That's like $60 per pound. Maybe there are more bang for the buck choices or maybe not. Going on a personal diet might be the most cost effective method of reducing weight although the effort might be hard.

Having a list from those that have done this would be most helpful. I realize that some of this maybe buried in various threads but having a table of the measures would make it much easier to make cost effective decisions. So Arizona are you up for putting together a list?

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

Reducing weight is good bang for the buck and almost always cheaper then building HP;........ to a certain point. Reducing weight you always start with the obvious and cheapest first. Reducing weight is also inversely proportional to safety. 5% reduction in weight means you can, should or have to add 3-5% more driver protection.

1. Driver ....If you want to win go to the gym. ( dirt cheap)
2. Comfort items or anything that can catch fire ( cheap)
3. Always reduce weight in front of axle centerline or polar moment weight as much as possible first expensive reduction. ( expensive)
4. Rotational mass ( expensive)
5. un-sprung weight (expensive)
6. systems (VERY EXPENSIVE)

[ViperGeorge]

Reducing weight is good bang for the buck and almost always cheaper then building HP;........ to a certain point. Reducing weight you always start with the obvious and cheapest first. Reducing weight is also inversely proportional to safety. 5% reduction in weight means you can, should or have to add 3-5% more driver protection.

1. Driver ....If you want to win go to the gym. ( dirt cheap)
2. Comfort items or anything that can catch fire ( cheap)
3. Always reduce weight in front of axle centerline or polar moment weight as much as possible first expensive reduction. ( expensive)
4. Rotational mass ( expensive)
5. un-sprung weight (expensive)
6. systems (VERY EXPENSIVE)

Thanks but could you be more specific as to what items on the Viper you would change? For example I think a list like the following would be very useful if someone with the knowledge could complete it.

1) Battery to Lithium Ion - cost around $900 - effort easy - weight savings 15lbs
2) Xbrace to Carbon Fiber - cost around $2800 - effort easy - weight savings 2lbs?
3) Rotors to Stoptech or similar - cost around ?? - effort moderate - weight savings ??
4) Wheels to lighter weight ones such as Sidewider IIs or aftermarket - cost $3000 to $9000 - effort easy - weight savings vary but could be 5-10lbs per wheel
5) Remove passenger seat - cost $0 - effort moderate - weight savings 40lbs?
6) Remove rear storage compartment carpet - cost $0 - effort easy - weight savings 2lbs?
7) Remove Air Conditioning - cost $0 - effort difficult - weight savings ??
8) Replace rear belly pan with carbon fiber - cost $1295 - effort moderate - weight savings 6lbs
9) Replace pedals with lighter DSE kit - cost $550 - effort easy - weight savings 1lb.
10) etc.

[Arizona Vipers]

Thanks but could you be more specific as to what items on the Viper you would change? For example I think a list like the following would be very useful if someone with the knowledge could complete it.

1) Battery to Lithium Ion - cost around $900 - effort easy - weight savings 15lbs
2) Xbrace to Carbon Fiber - cost around $2800 - effort easy - weight savings 2lbs?
3) Rotors to Stoptech or similar - cost around ?? - effort moderate - weight savings ??
4) Wheels to lighter weight ones such as Sidewider IIs or aftermarket - cost $3000 to $9000 - effort easy - weight savings vary but could be 5-10lbs per wheel
5) Remove passenger seat - cost $0 - effort moderate - weight savings 40lbs?
6) Remove rear storage compartment carpet - cost $0 - effort easy - weight savings 2lbs?
7) Remove Air Conditioning - cost $0 - effort difficult - weight savings ??
8) Replace rear belly pan with carbon fiber - cost $1295 - effort moderate - weight savings 6lbs
9) Replace pedals with lighter DSE kit - cost $550 - effort easy - weight savings 1lb.
10) etc.

1. You can save a lot more with battery, you can go as low as 2lbs on it, I run an 8lb one normally and 2lb when going for a track record.
2. carbon xbrace is 2.8lbs lighter
3. from what i remember the stoptech brakes on the trackpack cars weighed about 30 lbs less overall
4. If you have an ACR, the wheels and Kumho's are extremely heavy. I saved almost 100lb reciprocating and unsprung mass just going to Forgelines and slicks. It was 80lbs less with Forgelines and Hoosiers. This is a MASSIVE performance advantage everywhere on track, acceleration, braking, handling obviously.
5. Seats weigh 54 lbs each, you can save about 80lbs with Doug Shelby's Tillett seat kit
7. A/C don't bother, the entire system including compressor, condenser and all lines weighs 13 lbs total. The heater core weighs 12!
Windshield wiper bracket weighs 7lbs- https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...et-weigh-7-lbs
After the free stuff, the best for the money IMO would be dough shelby's front foam core splitter extension it saves 11 lbs off the extreme front of the car

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

Thanks but could you be more specific as to what items on the Viper you would change? For example I think a list like the following would be very useful if someone with the knowledge could complete it.

1) Battery to Lithium Ion - cost around $900 - effort easy - weight savings 15lbs
2) Xbrace to Carbon Fiber - cost around $2800 - effort easy - weight savings 2lbs?
3) Rotors to Stoptech or similar - cost around ?? - effort moderate - weight savings ??
4) Wheels to lighter weight ones such as Sidewider IIs or aftermarket - cost $3000 to $9000 - effort easy - weight savings vary but could be 5-10lbs per wheel
5) Remove passenger seat - cost $0 - effort moderate - weight savings 40lbs?
6) Remove rear storage compartment carpet - cost $0 - effort easy - weight savings 2lbs?
7) Remove Air Conditioning - cost $0 - effort difficult - weight savings ??
8) Replace rear belly pan with carbon fiber - cost $1295 - effort moderate - weight savings 6lbs
9) Replace pedals with lighter DSE kit - cost $550 - effort easy - weight savings 1lb.
10) etc.

George your list is pretty dang good. We should probably do 2 lists. List 1 strictly performance based and any changes would be purely bang for the buck performance and safety. List 2 would be parts that are finite performance based but more vanity cool factor based

We all like to think we are great drivers and pushing it to the limit every time on the track. You think you have left nothing on the table the car cant go any faster; "I need to buy more go fast light weight parts to go any faster". Throw a pro driver in your car and see how fast your car is as it sits.

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK PERFORMANCE LIST

1. Driver ..... Gym/cardio training program 100.00 per month- not easy but worth it
2. Professional driver coaching..........400-800.00 per weekend- extremely humbling- worth 10 times what you paid in the long run

FINITE PERFORMANCE VANITY COOL FACTOR LIST

1. True dual element race wing properly designed and engineered 7k-10k relatively easy install- super super cool- well worth the money for drivers who can take advantage of it
2. carbon fiber door mirrors 3k easy install- 100% looks bad ass - no performance improvement


something like this George???

[ViperGeorge]

George your list is pretty dang good. We should probably do 2 lists. List 1 strictly performance based and any changes would be purely bang for the buck performance and safety. List 2 would be parts that are finite performance based but more vanity cool factor based

We all like to think we are great drivers and pushing it to the limit every time on the track. You think you have left nothing on the table the car cant go any faster; "I need to buy more go fast light weight parts to go any faster". Throw a pro driver in your car and see how fast your car is as it sits.

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK PERFORMANCE LIST

1. Driver ..... Gym/cardio training program 100.00 per month- not easy but worth it
2. Professional driver coaching..........400-800.00 per weekend- extremely humbling- worth 10 times what you paid in the long run

FINITE PERFORMANCE VANITY COOL FACTOR LIST

1. True dual element race wing properly designed and engineered 7k-10k relatively easy install- super super cool- well worth the money for drivers who can take advantage of it
2. carbon fiber door mirrors 3k easy install- 100% looks bad ass - no performance improvement


something like this George???

I had suggested long ago to a different vendor that they create a list of performance improvements in order of diminishing returns for the money. I agree that driver education and seat time are the best performance bang for the buck. I am by no means a professional, more of an amateur with some years of experience. I always tell people that I could be faster if I didn't have so much to live for.

However, I have discovered that I can in fact go faster by changing the car some. For example, adding Hoosiers or similar tires makes a big difference over street tires (PZeros or PS2s, the Kuhmos are close to Hoosiers maybe faster). DOT R tires improve confidence and make me go faster. Ditto for racing brake pads such as Raybestos 45s and 43s as well as Dot 5 fluid like Motul 600. More confidence in the brakes makes me more confident and faster. Harnesses also make me faster because I'm not fighting to stay put. If I created a performance list it might be something like this although the order to do them should be determined:

1) Harnesses - cost $1200 for both sides - effort easy - keeps you stationary and improves confidence
2) Hoosiers, Proxies RR, Slicks or similar - cost $1200-$2000 depending on tires - effort easy - improves traction, braking, and cornerning
3) Racing Brake pads - cost $500 for Raybestos - effort moderate - reduces or eliminates brake fade and improves stopping distance
4) Motul Brake fluid or similar - cost $30 for 2 bottles of Motul - effort easy - reduces or eliminates brake fade due to cooked fluid
5) Heads and Cam upgrade - cost $25,000 - $30,000 - effort difficult - adds HP and Torque
6) 9L upgrade - cost >$35,000, effort difficult - adds HP and Torque
7) Headers and Cat back exhaust - cost $7,000 - effort difficult - adds HP and Torque.
8) Shocks - cost $7,000 - effort difficult - improves handling
9) etc.

I'm not sure which order I would put them in but probably brake pads and fluid might be first on my list, second would probably be harnesses, third tires, So maybe we could use three lists. One that detailed weight reduction options in order of price per pound saved. Second, a performance list in order of bang for the the buck, and third but not least, a safety list that would include things like Helmet, suit, gloves, fire proof under garments, Neck support, fire suppression, kill, switch, roll bar, roll cage, harnesses (although they could also be on the performance list), etc.