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Thread: Gen 2 subwoofer

  1. #1
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    Gen 2 subwoofer

    My anorexic subwoofer was toast, so I'm going to experiment with this little 6.5 powerhouse. IMG_20201020_162248.jpgIMG_20201020_162303.jpg

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    You need a proper amp to push the sub.

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    Quote Originally Posted by goggles Pizano View Post
    You need a proper amp to push the sub.
    ^^^ this

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    I have a old Punch 150 laying around here somewhere, and some poly-fil stuffing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by goggles Pizano View Post
    You need a proper amp to push the sub.
    Even more important: you need a proper enclosure to reproduce the lows of a sub. Bear in mind that the "sub(s)" in the Gen2 are no subs but just full range speakers and there's no real bass. So throwing in a real subwoofer chassis alone will not make a difference IMHO....

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    Oh, I got something for it....

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    Have you test fitted it? Will it fit in the back of the trunk enclosure? I'd love to get rid of my 12" JL Sub but I haven't found anything comparable to the punch.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TTSnake View Post
    Have you test fitted it? Will it fit in the back of the trunk enclosure? I'd love to get rid of my 12" JL Sub but I haven't found anything comparable to the punch.
    I think you and I have the same set up.........

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    Quote Originally Posted by My98RT10 View Post
    Even more important: you need a proper enclosure to reproduce the lows of a sub. Bear in mind that the "sub(s)" in the Gen2 are no subs but just full range speakers and there's no real bass. So throwing in a real subwoofer chassis alone will not make a difference IMHO....
    Unless it is a free air sub. If not free air then you need to calculate enclosure volume.

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    Quote Originally Posted by goggles Pizano View Post
    Unless it is a free air sub. If not free air then you need to calculate enclosure volume.
    Well, free air basically means that you use e.g. the trunk as enclosure volume instead of a separate enclosure. In this case, the trunk should be acoustically isolated from the cabin because you need to avoid an acoustic bypass. I don't think that this will work in the Viper. BTW, are we talking about GTS or RT/10? Anyway, both cars are not suited for a working free air solution in the factory woofer locations IMHO. Would be interesting to see a frequency response diagram of such an installation in a Viper....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patentlaw View Post
    I think you and I have the same set up.........
    What kind of amp are you driving the sub with? I'm using a JL 5/500.

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    old school Punch 150 I have laying around.

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    Keep those expectations nice and low...a 6.5" sub can only do so much, and in my experience, it ain't enough.

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    When I did my stereo makeover a few years back I abandoned the factory rear speaker locations entirely. Matter of fact, I abandoned the entire factory system entirely. Wiring and all.

    For the rear bass I used a JL CP108LGW3v3 sub and an Alpine X-A90V amp. I bridged the other 4 channels for the door speakers.

    It hits WAY harder than the factory amp and rears. I made a plate that lays in the trunk that holds it all. No modifications were needed to the trunk area whatsoever. Easily removable but since I never use the trunk I haven't ever removed it. And yes, since it is not anchored, if I ever am in an accident where the car tumbles end over end while rolling, it might fly out the rear glass area.

    20180101_111947.jpg

    20180101_112150_HDR.jpg

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    Obviously 6.5" is not going to be comparable to a big 12 incher. I'm talking speakers..........

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    The JL I use is an 8. It's all about the design of the speaker and the enclosure, as well as the amp of course.

    Soooooooo, it's not always the size, but how you use it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    When I did my stereo makeover a few years back I abandoned the factory rear speaker locations entirely. Matter of fact, I abandoned the entire factory system entirely. Wiring and all.

    For the rear bass I used a JL CP108LGW3v3 sub and an Alpine X-A90V amp. I bridged the other 4 channels for the door speakers.

    It hits WAY harder than the factory amp and rears. I made a plate that lays in the trunk that holds it all. No modifications were needed to the trunk area whatsoever. Easily removable but since I never use the trunk I haven't ever removed it. And yes, since it is not anchored, if I ever am in an accident where the car tumbles end over end while rolling, it might fly out the rear glass area.

    20180101_111947.jpg

    20180101_112150_HDR.jpg
    Very nice and clean install! I am sure it sounds very good!!

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    Nice set up Dave, but I'm not sure if I would get the same effect in a RT.... But I like that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cardboard View Post
    Nice set up Dave, but I'm not sure if I would get the same effect in a RT.... But I like that.
    I AM SURE... that you would NOT ;-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cardboard View Post
    RT
    No idea what car you have. You didn't say. The speaker you posted would work in either.

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    So did you try it out yet? How does it sound?

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    I haven't touched the car in a week , been slammed at work but $$$$ also , I hope to have it installed by the weekend . 2000 RT/10

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    Wait, you're putting those in an RT/10? So they're going in between the seats?

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    Yes it's 1 speaker.

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    well I guess it won't help me. Since mine would be in the trunk it would be a totally different sound.


 
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