Complete Brake Fluid Change Flush

[AAA96]

Hope everyone had a great Sunday. I am preparing myself to change/flush the fluid soon. As I get to order everything I need I have made a list below. Please let me know if I am missing anything that you all can think of. Also I understand the bleed order is RR, LF, RL, FR and inside then outside for each one. Any other input/know how is greatly appreciate in advance.

-Motive Brake Bleeder
-Motive 1103 adapter kit
-Motive 0603 gasket
-(4) 12 oz bottles of fluid?

Also, what do you guys recommend/prefer for brake fluid for a street driven viper.

[boraxman]

Getting ready to do mine too, also using a Powermotive system. I added a catch bottle from Amazon for $15 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks pretty straight forward.

One thing I saw on the PM system is to pressurize the bottle dry first to 15lbs and make sure it holds prior to starting the work.

[AAA96]

When ready to flush, what is the pressure set to? 20psi?

[Steve M]

When ready to flush, what is the pressure set to? 20psi?

10 psi will do the job.

[AAA96]

Getting ready to do mine too, also using a Powermotive system. I added a catch bottle from Amazon for $15 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks pretty straight forward.

One thing I saw on the PM system is to pressurize the bottle dry first to 15lbs and make sure it holds prior to starting the work.

How much fluid did you buy? And what kind?

[boraxman]

How much fluid did you buy? And what kind?

Bought 4 bottles Castrol 12509 Dot 4 Brake Fluid (12 Oz)...guessing it should be enough.

Im not tracking so as long as its DOT 4 I'm good.

[ViperGeorge]

I always use a turkey baster type thing (available at most parts stores) to suck the fluid out of the master first. Then refill the master with fresh fluid. Less old fluid to bleed this way. I always do them in this order right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Outside bleeder first, inside bleeder last.

[AAA96]

I always use a turkey baster type thing (available at most parts stores) to suck the fluid out of the master first. Then refill the master with fresh fluid. Less old fluid to bleed this way. I always do them in this order right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Outside bleeder first, inside bleeder last.

Any recommendation for a street setup for brake fluid? Or just any DOT 4 like Castrol.

[Jack B]

Sort of a side bar, I use a clean 5 gal bucket with a lid to store the bleeder, fluid, funnel, fittings and alcohol for cleaning

[ViperPete]

Just had this done on my car with Motul 660. Seven 20 minute sessions at CMP and zero brake fade with stockish brakes.

[GTS Dean]

-(4) 12 oz bottles of fluid?

If you do it right, you barely need 2 bottles. Even if done poorly, 3 should be more than plenty.

[01sapphirebob]

As far as fluid goes id just stick with the MOPAR fluid. Its good stuff.

[ViperGeorge]

Any recommendation for a street setup for brake fluid? Or just any DOT 4 like Castrol.

I use only Motul 600. Castrol SRF is better supposedly but pretty expensive.

[Arizona Vipers]

I always use a turkey baster type thing (available at most parts stores) to suck the fluid out of the master first. Then refill the master with fresh fluid. Less old fluid to bleed this way. I always do them in this order right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Outside bleeder first, inside bleeder last.

I do it in that order as well, everyone I know does it in that order. I wonder if the OP read that in the owners manual? Maybe we are doing it wrong? heh

[AAA96]

I do it in that order as well, everyone I know does it in that order. I wonder if the OP read that in the owners manual? Maybe we are doing it wrong? heh

I read in an old post on this forum that it there is some kind of a cross system? Not sure that’s why I was reposting and asking the question . If you guys did it your way with success I will follow you guys.

[blackbeast99]

I've seen it done both ways (in terms of order and them being zoned). I use Motul 600 or 660 and have zero issues at the track with the CCB's and now my Girodiscs (stock lines). Almost any good DOT 4 fluid is fine.

My Z06 was zoned, so I've done my bleeds the same way on the Viper. RR, LF, LR, RF with the Motive Bleeder around 15-17psi...use a flare nut wrench helps to not over-tighten the bleeder screws (88 In Lbs). All good info above and agreed (get as much old fluid from the reservoir before starting, about 2 bottles is plenty if done this way).

[mblgjr]

I do it in that order as well, everyone I know does it in that order. I wonder if the OP read that in the owners manual? Maybe we are doing it wrong? heh

Somewhere; buried along deep in the forum that I'm sure I'll never find again.

There was a quote from one of the Viper engineers stating that it didn't matter which corner you bled first nor the sequence so long as you weren't introducing air & were merely pushing fresh fluid out that the order was irrelevant.

Again, it goes against all the traditional rules we were told, but it was posted at some point to be a true statement.

[Steve M]

Somewhere; buried along deep in the forum that I'm sure I'll never find again.

There was a quote from one of the Viper engineers stating that it didn't matter which corner you bled first nor the sequence so long as you weren't introducing air & were merely pushing fresh fluid out that the order was irrelevant.

Again, it goes against all the traditional rules we were told, but it was posted at some point to be a true statement.

Maybe here?

https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post124432

[sadil]

Many brakes discussions on here have mentioned the cross bleed procedure. RR, LF, RL, FR. Doing either the inner/outer bleeder first is not something I keep track of. Both inner and outer bleeders will flush old fluid through the single line feeding the corner at the end of the "branch" and pull new fluid through. I have done this throughout ownership and I track the car hard. Fresh bleed is always problem free.

[mblgjr]

Maybe here?

https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post124432

Yep. Post #30

[ViperGeorge]

Yep. Post #30

Yes, that was me that posted that. I know a couple of SRT engineers including the senior vehicle dynamics engineer. He is also one of their test pilots. They have told me that the brake system on the Gen 5 is still front/rear not crossed. Given this I would still recommend bleeding the brakes in this order - RR, LR, RF, LF. Remember to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster and replace with new. Don't drain it to the point where you expose the openings at the bottom where the fluid exits the reservoir. You wouldn't want to allow air into the master or you would probably need to bench bleed the master which would be a pain.

I do believe that the service manual also says do the inside bleeder first and then the outside bleeder. I'm away from home right now or I would check. The Motive bleeder system makes bleeding the brakes simple.

[SRT_BluByU]

Vipergeorge is correct.. thats what was shown to me in the service manual when i last had it done.

[Theedrb]

this is just my logic and I could completely be wrong, but does anyone SUCK the fluid out instead of pressurizing it from the Resi? Just seems like a much easier was to pull the fluid through and not introduce air? Meaning suck the fluid from the bleeder and add fluid to the resi as needed.

[01sapphirebob]

this is just my logic and I could completely be wrong, but does anyone SUCK the fluid out instead of pressurizing it from the Resi? Just seems like a much easier was to pull the fluid through and not introduce air? Meaning suck the fluid from the bleeder and add fluid to the resi as needed.

Thats what I do. I use a mityvac. Suck old fluid from the reservoir, bleed fluid from the corners with the mityvac, fill the reservoir as needed. However, everyone seems to have great success using the motive power bleeder.

[Grcforce327]

Just do like this person, and you will never have to ask a question about your car.

https://vimeo.com/51166685