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  1. #1

    Anyone with experience using Evans Coolant

    A friend of mine who isnt too internet involved has an older car and was asking about it. I hadnt heard of it until today.. he mentioned a high boiling point 300+ deg being a plus and running the coolant system at zero/near zero pressure. Anyone here have any experience good or bad with it?

  2. #2
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    Junk. Use real coolant like the Mopar HOAT orange. Just do a search on it here.

  3. #3
    Its for a chevelle.. ;P he was curious if the viper guys had heard or used it. So i figured id post here for him and see.. thanks!

  4. #4
    I tried to use it in my fresh big block dart this spring. All new motor build (440 stroked to 512) so no issues of having to clean out old water in the system. It did nothing but over heat. Change to a 70/30 blend (water/antifreeze) and it helped. Now I ultimately bought a bigger radiator but Evans themselves will tell you that you have to an overbuilt coolant system to run their stuff as its not as efficient at pulling heat away from metal as water.

  5. #5
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    I run it in my Viper. But I have some issues.
    I followed all the procedures in their videos, drained engine core plugs, fitted new Howe Aluminium radiator
    IMG-20180525-WA0015.jpg
    New silicone top and bottom radiator hoses.
    20180525_155827.jpg

    The front nose was off the car so the expansion tank was also cleaned out and fully dried of any water.
    IMG-20180525-WA0019.jpg
    I also blew air through the other water pipes draining the heater core to make sure there was not one ounce of water in the system.
    Next step was to reconnect everything and then use there Stage 1 coolant flush fluid (Just to be on the safe side), I then fully drained that too.
    After that I then filled the car with the Red Evans Coolant.

    All seemed fine at first and it was nice to have the car back on the road. Temp seemed fine and stayed in the middle of the gauge during a trip to France creeping above middle around smaller villages.

    Then after a couple of months or so I started getting a weeping form the water pump bearing hole and a squeaking indicating that the pump might be on the way out?
    IMG_20190510_132817.jpg
    IMG_20190407_143900.jpg

    Now this may not be the fault of the coolant, but it has occured since I have been using it.
    The water pumps I have purchased are genuine mopar (old stock) parts which sadly state no guarantee. So buying a replacement water pump from somewhere like Autozone would be a better option as you would get at least a 1 year guarantee.

    As for temperature. Evans state in the Small Print that their coolant actually runs HOTTER than stock coolant.

    So if you are thinking of putting this in your system to cool the engine and reduce the temperature on the gauge, this is not what it is for!

    I will say my car has not overheated since I have been using it, but the temp gauge is regularly at 3/4qtrs around town and moves back into the middle around 60mph on a motorway (freeway) with little traffic.

    As I type this I do have another squeaking sound from the front of the engine, it's hard to pinpoint the noise at the moment but again the (old stock) Mopar Replacement water pump may be suspect! That will be my 3rd Pump in 99,000 Miles.

    Coincidence? I really don't know, but they do say no smoke without fire!

  6. #6
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    Just wanted to add that my water pump issues have been Bearing Noise issues, Nothing to do with Melted impellers.

  7. #7
    Wow thats crazy... you shouldn't be on your third oem waterpump in 100k. Are you going to switch it back?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    Wow thats crazy... you shouldn't be on your third oem waterpump in 100k. Are you going to switch it back?
    At the moment I am putting up with the noise and until I see a leak failure I will leave it for now. I have another Mopar water pump and Gasket sitting on the shelve ready to go. Its trying to work out exactly where the squeak is coming from? I have a stethoscope engine tool but that is only amplifying a water pump bearing rumble (not a squeak).

    Bottom Line, for all the effort it takes to swap the water out and clean the system its probably not worth the hassle.

    My engine has Never run cool (Gauge to the left of centre) since I have owned the car back in 2008, I have experienced Melted Fan Relays and have checked through the wiring for any corrosion at the Fan connector, I have also added an extra wire onto the underside low fan speed terminal spade connector to help ease the load on the original wire.

    You can read a lot of stuff on the forums about how people change over to a product and swear by it, but I think it comes down to personal preference.

    I like the fact that the fluid will not corrode up my new rad, and will keep the inside of the ali engine block nice, but the water pump issue is annoying me.

    If you buy any of the old overstock mopar parts, just remember you get no guarantee on any part. So aftermarket is really the way to go with a replaceable part like a water pump.

    At the moment I'm on the fence about the fluid and I may of had a water pump with a rusted bearing that had been sitting in a warehouse shelve for many years?

  9. #9
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    I have gone through 2 Unitrax Haft shafts and 2 busted UJs on Stock Half Shafts in 60,000 miles And the car is not even supercharged!Thats more expensive than Water pumps

  10. #10
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    I think Sybil TF ? On these forums uses the Evans Coolant?
    Last edited by Fatboy 18; 09-26-2020 at 10:12 AM.

  11. #11
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    I used it in my old Talon. The biggest issue is that it does not and cannot mix with water. They have gallons of flushing stuff you can use, but really, rebuilding your engine would be a good time to switch to it.

    That, and nobody at the store sells it. You'd want to keep some on hand just in case you need some extra.

    Never had any issues overheating with the car, but it was just so impractical that I couldn't recommend it.

  12. #12
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    Don't use Evan's for a viper it will actually increase the heat in the motor and you will need to add fuel or pull timing. I had a long discussion with their tech department and can dig up the emails if need be.

  13. #13
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    Interesting, please can you dig up email info, thanks.
    I did recently change out pulgs and noticed that a couple of the plugs seemed to show signs of detention and the others looked a little lean!


 

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