Rotor wear after 2 track days

[Dustin]

I did a new brake setup on my Gen 4 ACR with RB TA size rotors with carbotech xp20 front and XP10 rears.

The brakes felt amazing until they diddnt. Day one was at road america, day 2 was at gingerman. Front pads were done after 3 sessions at gingerman but I noticed some deep groves in the rotors. Never had this happen. Are the rings toast? can they be cut? bad set of rotors? The rotors on my TA still look new and have 4-5 track days on them.

Any help is appreciated.

rotor.jpgrotor.jpg

[GTS Dean]

I went through a new, bedded set of front rotors and pads in a weekend at RA in my Gen2. I was running PFC race pads at 13-1400 degrees. But, they wore very uniformly without grooving. Don't be afraid to experiment with pad compounds. What works well on a 4 mile track won't necessarily work well for a 2 mile track.

[1ststrike]

That one crack in the rotor looks bad enough to replace to be on the safe side. Nothing worse than a rotor breaking while out on the track. Usually causes a lot of body damage

[GTS Dean]

Yeah - even fire sometimes! That was quite a spectacular show!

[Scot@Prefix]

The rotors and pad should be replaced at the same time. The aggressive pads used in racing wear the rotor with the pad.

[JonB ~ PartsRack]

NOT a Brembo TA rotor, but an aftermarket .

The one ACR guy who half- season raced that rotor in West was unhappy with the endurance.....

[Lawineer]

What pads are you running? I'm assuming you weren't running a dedicated track pad, which you absolutely have to do on the track- especially when you have heavy high HP cars with big grip.
You can swap them back and forth without switching rotors. I swap pads every track day to a harsh race pad and then back to a gentle street pad.

And those are rotors are just fine.

[SRT_BluByU]

maybe different steel properties/quality in the OEM rotor v. aftermarket?

[13COBRA]

Ouch. I'd definitely get new ones.

[Bill Pemberton]

Not sure what RB rotors are, but RA is hard on those round discs and there is a reason the factory ones are often considered the " Gold Standard. " MoPar rotors are done by Stoptech, so we sold plenty of those back in the Woodhouse Motorsports Day. The Girodisc ones are a choice I could recommend because with all the Chinese tariff and steel issues there is a nice feeling knowing Girodisc only has US Steel rotors.

I would replace, by the way, and I went through a complete set of pads and a rotor with my Gen II years back at RA. Consumables love Road America, and so do the aftermarket companies, ha.

[Lawineer]

Not sure what RB rotors are, but RA is hard on those round discs and there is a reason the factory ones are often considered the " Gold Standard. " MoPar rotors are done by Stoptech, so we sold plenty of those back in the Woodhouse Motorsports Day. The Girodisc ones are a choice I could recommend because with all the Chinese tariff and steel issues there is a nice feeling knowing Girodisc only has US Steel rotors.

I would replace, by the way, and I went through a complete set of pads and a rotor with my Gen II years back at RA. Consumables love Road America, and so do the aftermarket companies, ha.

Iron rotors are, more or less, all the same. 99% of a rotor is its geometry (vanes, directional or not, wavy, etc), surface (drilled, slotted, blank, etc) and weight.

The cheapest blank rotors are probably your best bet. You can get slotted if it makes you feel better but a proper race pad shouldn't outgas.

[SRT_BluByU]

interesting opinion for sure.. I was always under the impression metallurgical difference batter.. (nickle content, etC).

[Lawineer]

interesting opinion for sure.. I was always under the impression metallurgical difference batter.. (nickle content, etC).

If your rotors overheat and have problems due to heat, your pads are probably on fire as is your brake fluid. Also, there are very few global rotor manufacturers. They just put their names on them and maybe have their own casting for one off cars like ours.