Gen II Window Regulator

[Fatboy 18]

Hello, this is a guide on how to replace the plastic shuttle which often breaks on the Gen II regulator.
The regulator is a one of part from Chrysler Dodge and replacing the whole thing is rather expensive! $$$

It seems the Nylon shuttle is the weakest part of the mechanism! I found I had a problem when I tried to raise my window, I was operating the switch and could hear the motor but nothing was happening!

Further investigation was required.........

I removed the door speaker and interior door lining, then removed the regulator assembly and found the Nylon shuttle which the window attaches to had broken apart!


After sorting out which bit went where, the shuttle should look like this


2 Wires attach to the Nylon shuttle pulling it up and down the steel track. I tried using Superglue to glue the nylon shuttle back together but as soon as any pressure was put on the shuttle it simply fell apart! Then I tried 2 part epoxy adhesive, this worked!
Here is a picture of the shuttle back on the track with the steel wires attached


I was not really happy using the glued part and found out (through the Viper community) it is the same part used on a Dodge Caravan 96-2000 or as we call it in Europe a Chrysler Voyager. The Voyager / Caravan regulator assembly is totally different to the Vipers, but the Nylon shuttles are the same
Here's a picture of the Dodge Caravan set up, (White clip for Viper Left window , Black clip for Viper Right window, throw the rest of it away).


The assembled Viper regulator should look like this, and as I said earlier is a single part by Dodge


The Dodge part number


To replace the Nylon shuttle you will need to bend the stop tab on the end of the steel slide rail, this may snap off!
(mine did).


If the tab does snap off you will need to make another type of bump stop, I did this by drilling a small hole in the side of the slide rail then inserting a cap head machine screw and a couple of nuts

Notes: If you find your window regulator breaks, try not to operate the electric toggle switch.
The more you operate the switch it will chew up the steel wires in the regulator gearbox. If this does happen the best way around this is to place the regulator in a Bench Vice then carefully drill off the rivet head holding the gearbox cover.

You then need to drill a very small hole in the end of the rivet and cut a thread into the rivet for a small self tapping screw to hold the cover back on. I did exactly this after drilling the small hole I used a couple of self tapping screws and plenty of cutting fluid carefully cutting a thread with the self tapping screw.

My wires were fairly chewed up, but holding one end of the wire in a pair of grips and applying heat from a blow torch and pulling on the wire it straightened them out.

As far as re-assembly goes, I found it best to attach the wires to the nylon shuttle first then pull the wire over the black wheel at the end of the track. The wires are under tension and its a very tight fit getting the wires over the end wheels

4 years on, everything is still working fine.

New Replacement nylon shuttles are now available on the Internet

I hope this helps
Cheers.

[Troublemaker]

I just got done doing this, but didn't remove it from the car. My cables were also tangled inside the pulley, so I pulled the motor out one of the access ports to grind the rivet off. I drilled and retapped for a 6-32 machine screw which left lots of meat. I put the clip on first, mine just popped onto the rail, then rerouted the cables on the pulley and popped it back on. I saw your thread on the Morgue but your pictures were missing. Buy these clips for the Van, I won't even tell you what the Viper tax is on them.

[Fatboy 18]

Interesting you managed to get the shuttle back on the rail without having to bend the tab back! Thanks for the feedback

[Troublemaker]

I never got the rail out of the car, so to be honest I didn't even know it had tabs. The shuttle pops back on the side of the rail fairly easily. I did make sure to lube the crap out of everything that moves while I was in the there, binding seems to be what puts these things over the edge.

[Oberyn]

Has anyone thought of machining these nylon shuttles out of some sort of metal? I would assume they would need to be lubricated sufficiently, but I imagine this would be a stronger/more reliable part were it not made from nylon.

I have no idea how difficult it would be to machine something like this so forgive me if the question is a foolish one.

[Troublemaker]

Has anyone thought of machining these nylon shuttles out of some sort of metal? I would assume they would need to be lubricated sufficiently, but I imagine this would be a stronger/more reliable part were it not made from nylon.

I have no idea how difficult it would be to machine something like this so forgive me if the question is a foolish one.

While I don't disagree with you, the plastic ones are the weak link in the assembly and I like the fact it a cheap part the breaks. The worst part is the fact it balls up on the pulley. Drilling out the rivet and retapping it wasn't too bad either. Try to keep the cable in the pulley in right orientation is a pain in the ass. I recommend more than two hands for the project and use some good lube on the rail. I used a grease called Durina, doesn't attract dirt, lasts forever and goes on thin so there isn't any gunking.

[Bugman Jeff]

Has anyone thought of machining these nylon shuttles out of some sort of metal? I would assume they would need to be lubricated sufficiently, but I imagine this would be a stronger/more reliable part were it not made from nylon.

I have no idea how difficult it would be to machine something like this so forgive me if the question is a foolish one.

I work as a CNC programmer/machinist. Looking at one of the shuttles, they would be complicated to machine from a solid block. On a 3 axis mill, it would take four separate operations(top, bottom, and both ends). The biggest challenge would be the guide slot that rides on the regulator because it's a small and deep square slot being cut with round cutters. On a 4 or 5 axis mill, you might be able to do it in two operations, but the guide slot would still be a problem. The slot could be EDM'd, but that would take more time. So, the shuttles could be made from metal, but doing so would be complex enough that they would be cost prohibitive.

[Fatboy 18]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1992-2002-Do...57953f&vxp=mtr

Cheap shuttles

[otterbeinjumper]

Thanks to the OP for the instructions. Ended up being a 4-5 hour job for a novice. Could easily cut that in less than half if I had to repeat it. If you buy the shuttle two pack on amazon make sure you use the correct one (L or R) or you’ll have a hell of a time getting the assembly all back together. I put the assembly back together by using a screw driver wedged into the river hole to push the blue spindle back in place with full tension on the rest of the assembly.

[cardude720]

My passenger window clicks on the way down. Could this be the cause? (2000 GTS)

[otterbeinjumper]

I don’t recall any clicking. Mine just wouldn’t go down or back up once the shuttle was broken. Click the window switch and nothing would happen. Somewhat surprised the shuttle was at fault.

- - - Updated - - -

I don’t recall any clicking. Mine just wouldn’t go down or back up once the shuttle was broken. Click the window switch and nothing would happen. Somewhat surprised the shuttle was at fault.

[MrCreosote]

I have found there are two types of replacement shuttles: LONG and SHORT arm: The "L"-slot cut in the plastic positions the shuttle on the track. The LONG arm can snap onto the track while the SHORT arm has to be slid onto the arm.

I have a SHORT arm that broke off, a LONG arm that broke the "top land" of the spring groove, and a couple more. I've done this job at least 3 times on my 96 GTS from 60k to 90k miles.

ONLY PROBLEM: My regulator track is not parallel with the window track: When the window is up, it is further away from the reg track. I don't see an adjustment for this.

WINDOW TRACKS: I know that replacing the tracks would make the windows easier too move. With new tracks, windows "dropped" will slide down like a guillotine! I haven't researched track replacement. While I an pull my window up with thumb and forefinger, when fully up (reg removed), it will stay there (won't slide down.) This is an issue that should be addressed to get the most life out of the shuttle.

LUBE/GREASE: If you research this on the web, your head will explode. Everything from dry PTFE to Lithium which some say does and doesn't affect plastic and does and doesn't get hard, Di-electric grease. Shin Etsu. Dry Moly. and at least a dozen more.

[songsbybutch]

OK, I have a 2001 RT/10 convertible. Window only goes up and down about 2 inches and makes a gear stripping noise, no loud bang or anything. The plastic shuttle is not broke. Is there a gear inside the regulator motor that I can replace? Or is there something else making this gear grinding sound? Thanks for any help with this. When you drill out the rivets and pull it apart, what is on the inside? Does anyone have pictures? I have been searching the web and so far I can't find anything. They sell new motors on Ebay for 60 bucks but I'm wondering if I need something else along with the new motor. Sent the whole unit to a company in Florida. They say they rebuild the regulators and have a 24 hour turn around once they get it. They had mine for 2 weeks and said the motor was bad and they couldn't find one. This is the new motor. It looks like whatever is inside the case is missing along with the cover where the rivets are drilled out. windowmotor.jpg

[Fatboy 18]

OK, I have a 2001 RT/10 convertible. Window only goes up and down about 2 inches and makes a gear stripping noise, no loud bang or anything. The plastic shuttle is not broke. Is there a gear inside the regulator motor that I can replace? Or is there something else making this gear grinding sound? Thanks for any help with this. When you drill out the rivets and pull it apart, what is on the inside? Does anyone have pictures? I have been searching the web and so far I can't find anything. They sell new motors on Ebay for 60 bucks but I'm wondering if I need something else along with the new motor. Sent the whole unit to a company in Florida. They say they rebuild the regulators and have a 24 hour turn around once they get it. They had mine for 2 weeks and said the motor was bad and they couldn't find one. This is the new motor. It looks like whatever is inside the case is missing along with the cover where the rivets are drilled out. windowmotor.jpg

There should be a Blue Spool in there like you find on a strimmer with the cables, then a cover plate?