Driver Door Window Stuck Open PLEASE HELP

[sadil]

Hey guys,

Well the window woes have returned. I have a stuck window. Stuck 1" below full. I am trying to bypass the window and supply 12V right to the switch connector to force the window up. I don't have access to a garage right now and I don't want the rain to get in.

If someone has any knowledge of the Gen V viper connector, and what each terminal is used for. It would be awesome.

Seems like only 5 of the multi-connector terminals are being used.

2, 8, 9, 10, 11

2 - Larger pink/yellow wire
8 - Yellow, pink
9 - Grey, yellow
10 - Green
11 - Black

Also attached a photo of the motor wires. Seems to be 5 as well.

IMG-6098.jpg
IMG-6101.jpg
IMG-6103.jpg

[ViperTony]

Pulled these from the wiring manual:

wire1.jpgwire2.jpg90d4909b-578a-4dd2-9622-cd52c27ea9e7.jpg

[sadil]

Any chance you have a wiring line diagram as well? I have some doubt since the wiring size and colors are different. Even the connector is different.

I know door has several connectors. This might be something else?

[sadil]

Pulled these from the wiring manual:

wire1.jpgwire2.jpg90d4909b-578a-4dd2-9622-cd52c27ea9e7.jpg

Omg, that’s an amazing manual of wiring is shown like that. Any chance we could get the same explanation for the connector at the window up/down buttons? I see it sitting there.

[sadil]

Has anyone found a way to diagnose their door module as the culprit? I didn’t get a CEL but was wondering they were able to use a scan tool to check readiness?

68353603AB is the part number for the module and may be the cause of my woes. Will have to check mine to see if water got in.

[Bryan Savage]

Dumbest question ever, Sadil, but it's tough to tell from your post. The window, with the glass 1-inch retracted, is not moving anymore. The motor is unresponsive, I assume?

The window boss isn't broken, right? It's absolutely not a mechanical issue?

Can you unplug the motor directly and apply power from there instead of the window switch connector that you have in your hand?

[sadil]

Bryan, never a dumb question.

I skipped over diagnosing the window regulator because of my unfortunate past experience with my driver side window glass falling off the rails. I had the issue where it was just stuck and then eventually almost fell into the channel. I fixed it and glued the window to the plastic base pieces correctly.

However this time. The window didn’t even show a sign of struggle. It just died on a drive to the grocery store. I was driving and when I parked, the 1” lowered window did not show any signs of power. On top of that my side view mirrors are dead when trying to use the 4 direction adjustment. The whole unit seems like it has no power.

I tried swapping the 30A fuses with the passenger side but that just for fun. I already knew the gas lid motor was working on the drivers side and the fuse would have killed that too if it had gone.

This is why I know mechanically the piece is okay. Lol it feeling okay is another story because I still hear little noises here and there. But the regulator we got is just trash and noisy in the first place. I either drive fully up or fully down unless it’s supper cold, which it is right now.

And yes, I’m trying to figure out which motor wire to provide 12V power to. I have narrowed down the connector’s 5 wires to the 2 large ones that control up and down. However, I have usually seen people use a ground wire as well when doing this and I don’t know which wire to ground.

I was trying to look through the wiring diagrams when I remembered there was a module too that is sensitive to wet weather. And I’m not stranger to leaving my car outside

[Bryan Savage]

Hmmmm.

This is where I run out of talent. I'd suggest that 12V to one and grounding the other would make the window go one way, and reverse the leads to get it to go the other, but cars have gone and gotten mighty complex since I used to work on them.

The switch probably sends signal to the body control module, which sends a signal to the door control module, which sends power through a multiplex wire to control the motor, via the fuse block.

I would still try to unplug the motor itself and apply power there rather than the window switch, but it sounds like you've already had some experience with this, so you're probably on the right track.

Can you plug everything in and poke a test light or multimeter lead into the back of the connector to see where the power goes with normal operation? Or it's a pain in the ass, but can you take the other door apart and shove a test light into that connector to compare to? It's probably a different connector of course, but maybe the wires are the same gauge and color.

[sadil]

Hmmmm.

This is where I run out of talent. I'd suggest that 12V to one and grounding the other would make the window go one way, and reverse the leads to get it to go the other, but cars have gone and gotten mighty complex since I used to work on them.

The switch probably sends signal to the body control module, which sends a signal to the door control module, which sends power through a multiplex wire to control the motor, via the fuse block.

I would still try to unplug the motor itself and apply power there rather than the window switch, but it sounds like you've already had some experience with this, so you're probably on the right track.

Can you plug everything in and poke a test light or multimeter lead into the back of the connector to see where the power goes with normal operation? Or it's a pain in the ass, but can you take the other door apart and shove a test light into that connector to compare to? It's probably a different connector of course, but maybe the wires are the same gauge and color.

My dad already scolded me for having enough tools to do a rebuild but no multi-meter or 12V test light. Lol I will be picking up those today.

I agree with you, with the switch being over complicated and having the control modules in line with power, I just want to be careful before I apply power to anything. Directly to the motor is the best option, whats the worst that could happen. But the problem would persist and it also may not move the window down when open and closing the door. So even the fix, is a partial one. I will keep everyone posted with what I find. First, I am going to remove the door module and take a peak at the board. If it indeed is the module, it should some signs of corrosion.

Sarosh

[ViperGeorge]

This happened to my 2015 TA 2.0. Turned out to be a bad door node. It controls the window but prior to 2016 it was not shielded from water infiltration. Water would get into the harness and node and short it out. There was a TSB on this which called for replacing and rerouting the harness and installing a shield over the node. This however shouldn't be your problem on a 2017. None the less if the door node fails applying voltage to the switch won't do anything. You need to power the window motor directly. A Viper tech did this for me at Dallas Dodge while I was on a road trip. Sorry but I don't know which wires he used but he put jumpers on the motor somewhere. He got the window up but didn't have a door node to fix the problem.

Good luck.

[ViperTony]

This is coming directly from the tech authority wiring manual for 2017 Viper. I attached the switch and door wiring diagram...this seems more complicated then it needs to be, lol.

[sadil]

This is coming directly from the tech authority wiring manual for 2017 Viper. I attached the switch and door wiring diagram...this seems more complicated then it needs to be, lol.

Thank you gents for your help. It indeed was the door module. I stole my brothers challenger driver side door module and it worked fine. The challenger shares the same unit. Thank God.

I got my window rolled up and will get a replacement unit soon.

Unfortunately it looks like all of the viper modules are susceptible. At $65, it’s not too expensive of a fix. Annoying nonetheless. Seems like whoever designed the doors and windows on these cars was an truly an idiot. No excuse for these headaches with the windows.

Photos below illustrate the corrosion present. I tried cleaning it but had no luck.

[ViperGeorge]

I was under the impression your car was a 17 from your signature. Did your door node not have the plastic shield over it? The plastic shield is clear plastic and is secured with silicone. The harness is also changed and rerouted. It is slightly longer too to allow the harness to exit the shielding at the bottom. I was under the impression that an engineering change was made in MY 16 to add the shield. The shield is there to prevent this exact type of corrosion. Maybe your shield was not securely attached or maybe it was just missing. You could order one I suppose or use a piece of plastic and make your own with some silicone. Messy to do it yourself though.

[AZTVR]

Appears that it might be a candidate for the application of conformal coating !

[ViperGeorge]

Appears that it might be a candidate for the application of conformal coating !

What is conformal coating? Sounds interesting.

[sadil]

I had the plastic shield. Whatever they tried to do failed on my car. Execution of the plastic inside door is crap at best. Engineering solutions need to be executed well. This was not in my opinion. The unit itself should have been sealed. On the challenger it is well protected due to where it is placed. In the viper they have it on top of the hottest area of the door over the start of the exhaust . Could be just corrosion from condensation.

[Steve M]

What is conformal coating? Sounds interesting.

Stuff like this:

https://www.techspray.com/the-essent...formal-coating

[AZTVR]

What is conformal coating? Sounds interesting.

Stuff like this:

https://www.techspray.com/the-essent...formal-coating

I encountered it a lot on circuit boards and electronic assemblies in my first job decades ago, mainly in military applications. It sure made it difficult to troubleshoot and repair things, though! I just googled and there is talk about DIY conformal coating. I don't think that I would do that though, as long as there are replacements available.