Parts for your viper Need want wish

[Scott_in_fl]

Here's a simple want that I'm too lazy to do the research for...

I loathe the idiot 3/8" body sheet metal screws that hold the bottom of the exhaust sills and the splash guards on. You know, the ones that are just jammed into the frame that strip very easily after you have things apart a couple times?

How about a Nut-Zert kit with some bolts to replace all those stupid fasteners?

Amen, Brother!!!!

And while we're on fasteners, I've always thought that screws holding the kick plate on top of the sills look a bit odd (the stainless plate with the Viper logo). Here is the entry of a Ferrari F488 -- no unsightly fasteners showing.

And while we're on beautifying, let's get under the hood and pretty up some of these hoses, connectors, clips, fluid reservoirs, screws, etc. I'm thinking braided lines with AN fittings, billet machined clasps and brackets, hollow Ti bolts, etc. Would be pretty neat if there was a kit that was tastefully done to make the under hood area look more like something that Nth Moto would be proud of, than the OEM plastic/rubber/corroding steel bits.

Ferrari-488-driver-side.jpg

[ViperGeorge]

+ 1 times 1,000!!! I felt like an idiot after stripping some. And now I'm worried about puncturing my own tire, although that hasn't happened yet. A solid, secure way to fasten the sills would be fantastic.

I haven't had this problem yet on my Gen 5. However, it was definitely a problem on my Gen 4. I ended up using those plastic push pin things. You know the one that you place into the hole where the screw went and then you push down on the sliding top which forces the tangs to spread. Worked and actually made it pretty easy to remove the sills.

[Bryan Savage]

I haven't had this problem yet on my Gen 5. However, it was definitely a problem on my Gen 4. I ended up using those plastic push pin things. You know the one that you place into the hole where the screw went and then you push down on the sliding top which forces the tangs to spread. Worked and actually made it pretty easy to remove the sills.

We're talking about the sheet screws on the underside, holding the exhaust rocker panel on. The frame is like, 1mm thick. A slight overtorque and the bolt will just spin in place. It's inexcusably cheap for SRT to have used that kind of fastener on such a car.

[ViperGeorge]

We're talking about the sheet screws on the underside, holding the exhaust rocker panel on. The frame is like, 1mm thick. A slight overtorque and the bolt will just spin in place. It's inexcusably cheap for SRT to have used that kind of fastener on such a car.

Yes I know exactly which screws you are talking about. These are the exact ones I replaced with plastic push pins on my Gen 4.

[Bryan Savage]

Yes I know exactly which screws you are talking about. These are the exact ones I replaced with plastic push pins on my Gen 4.

Wow! I wouldn't have wanted to risk the heat and rock pings on a plastic fastener. Guess that means they've been holding up for you?

[ViperGeorge]

Wow! I wouldn't have wanted to risk the heat and rock pings on a plastic fastener. Guess that means they've been holding up for you?

Because they go into the frame they are not really close to exhaust heat. You do have to pick the right size. You want to be able to push them in and then push the top sliding thing down all the way. This pushes the "wings" out and they grab the frame. Too small a size and they might work their way out. Too big and you won't be able to push the sliding thing all the way down. This was on my Gen 4 which I traded some years ago.

If I hadn't used the plastic push pins I would have had to drill out the frame and put in some kind of nut. The plastic things seemed to work and were pretty easy actually. Only replace the screws that are loose. Of course the more you take the sills off the more screws tend to strip and get loose. Good thing is that if you were to lose one they won't damage your rear tire since they are plastic.

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

Here's a simple want that I'm too lazy to do the research for...

I loathe the idiot 3/8" body sheet metal screws that hold the bottom of the exhaust sills and the splash guards on. You know, the ones that are just jammed into the frame that strip very easily after you have things apart a couple times?

How about a Nut-Zert kit with some bolts to replace all those stupid fasteners?

Aluminum peel rivets is what we switch all our vipers rocker panels to. They wont fall out on track and cut a tire. Very easy to remove just drill out takes less then a minute to remove them little longer when you need to reinstall new rivets We would make a kit to do this but aluminum peel rivets are cheap and easy to find online.

[kriskyk]

Aluminum peel rivets is what we switch all our vipers rocker panels to. They wont fall out on track and cut a tire. Very easy to remove just drill out takes less then a minute to remove them little longer when you need to reinstall new rivets We would make a kit to do this but aluminum peel rivets are cheap and easy to find online.

What size rivet?

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

What size rivet?

Mc master Karr 8.00 bucks for 25. .
#97545A075
Blind Rivets for Soft Materials, 3/16" Diameter, for 0.157"-0.472" Material Thickness

Hand squeeze rivet gun is all you need to install. Home depot, lowes have cheap ones that will work just fine. The screw holes will most likely be blown out so you will not even have to drill just pull screw out and pop in in rivet

[HANKFAN]

Mc master Karr 8.00 bucks for 25. .
#97545A075
Blind Rivets for Soft Materials, 3/16" Diameter, for 0.157"-0.472" Material Thickness

Hand squeeze rivet gun is all you need to install. Home depot, lowes have cheap ones that will work just fine. The screw holes will most likely be blown out so you will not even have to drill just pull screw out and pop in in rivet

Thanks for the info!

[ViperGeorge]

Aluminum peel rivets is what we switch all our vipers rocker panels to. They wont fall out on track and cut a tire. Very easy to remove just drill out takes less then a minute to remove them little longer when you need to reinstall new rivets We would make a kit to do this but aluminum peel rivets are cheap and easy to find online.

Wait, so to remove the rocker panel you need to drill out the rivet and then use new rivets each time? If that is the case, I like my plastic push pin solution better.

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

Wait, so to remove the rocker panel you need to drill out the rivet and then use new rivets each time? If that is the case, I like my plastic push pin solution better.

I dont think you you will be happy with plastic push pin rivets George. The underside belly pan area is pretty violent, The factory screws fall out or get clipped and torn out possible cut a tire, heat, debris, high centering, etc... I would imagine the plastic push pin rivets will have an even shorter service life probably need to buy them in bulk. Aluminum rivets are extremely easy to drill out, easy to install , and cheap. Metal aluminum rivets work great on racecars, street cars, space shuttle and military aircraft because they are simple, easy to work with and effective. Just passing on some experience to maybe save you time.

[ViperGeorge]

I dont think you you will be happy with plastic push pin rivets George. The underside belly pan area is pretty violent, The factory screws fall out or get clipped and torn out possible cut a tire, heat, debris, high centering, etc... I would imagine the plastic push pin rivets will have an even shorter service life probably need to buy them in bulk. Aluminum rivets are extremely easy to drill out, easy to install , and cheap. Metal aluminum rivets work great on racecars, street cars, space shuttle and military aircraft because they are simple, easy to work with and effective. Just passing on some experience to maybe save you time.

Except I'd also have to carry a drill with me to the track. I don't have an enclosed trailer and I often just drive my car to the track. On my Gen 4 ACR I never had a plastic push pin thingy fall out. Plus it is actually pretty easy to carry spares, I could put a few dozen in my glove box. I know you guys know what you are talking about and your techniques are all track tested. I guess if my car were a full blown race car the aluminum rivets would be the way to go.

[TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM]

Except I'd also have to carry a drill with me to the track. I don't have an enclosed trailer and I often just drive my car to the track. On my Gen 4 ACR I never had a plastic push pin thingy fall out. Plus it is actually pretty easy to carry spares, I could put a few dozen in my glove box. I know you guys know what you are talking about and your techniques are all track tested. I guess if my car were a full blown race car the aluminum rivets would be the way to go.

Do you need to take off your rocker panels at the track??? Not being a smart ass or busitn your chops just trying to understand ????

[ViperGeorge]

Do you need to take off your rocker panels at the track??? Not being a smart ass or busitn your chops just trying to understand ????

On my Gen 4, yes. With headers the rear O2 wires would melt even if insulated. This would in turn blow the ASD fuse(s). Pain in the butt quite honestly. But after getting the Mopar controller I eliminated the rear O2s and never had a problem again. I've not had to remove the sills on my Gen 5 though but on the other hand I haven't had a problem with the screws.

I forgot too that I had to remove the sills on my Gen 3 with a Paxton while on One Lap of America. Car got so hot that insulation in the sills started to melt. SRT engineers happen to be in that event and they helped me remove the sills (it was my first time) and reposition the insulation. That was also at the track. The SRT guys said that they have actually burnt Gen 3s to the ground when the insulation caught fire.

[Steve M]

For the folks wanting something different for sill fasteners, it is pretty straightforward to install rivet nuts. Links to the stuff you'd need are in this thread:

https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...sill-fasteners

I used the 1/4-20 rivet nut inserts, a 25/64" drill bit to enlarge the holes in the body, this Astro setting tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumat.../dp/B003TODXQW

...and the required 1/4-20 screws with fender washers.

Yeah, it isn't a "kit", but it was pretty easy to source everything required.

[ViperGeorge]

For the folks wanting something different for sill fasteners, it is pretty straightforward to install rivet nuts. Links to the stuff you'd need are in this thread:

https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...sill-fasteners

I used the 1/4-20 rivet nut inserts, a 25/64" drill bit to enlarge the holes in the body, this Astro setting tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumat.../dp/B003TODXQW

...and the required 1/4-20 screws with fender washers.

Yeah, it isn't a "kit", but it was pretty easy to source everything required.

Good solution, thanks.

[kriskyk]

Aftermarket peddle box / setup