DSE Catch Can Install P0174 code

[BSLSK]

Last weekend I finished the single can sealed DSE catch can (passenger side) on my 2014 GTS. This past weekend I got the chance to take it out but got a CEL with permanent code P0174 and pending codes P0171 and P0153. Ran a little rough at idle but no issues on the highway. Pulled over to check the catch can hoses, everything is tight and fine. Got home and there was a lot of oil in the can after a 60 mile drive. About a teaspoon maybe more.

I'm wondering if these codes can be related to the catch can install at all? That's the only thing I've changed recently. My car has Jon B high flow cats with stock O2 sensors and hasn't given me a single issue for at least 1,000 miles.

[sadil]

Last weekend I finished the single can sealed DSE catch can (passenger side) on my 2014 GTS. This past weekend I got the chance to take it out but got a CEL with permanent code P0174 and pending codes P0171 and P0153. Ran a little rough at idle but no issues on the highway. Pulled over to check the catch can hoses, everything is tight and fine. Got home and there is a lot of

I'm wondering if these codes can be related to the catch can install at all? That's the only thing I've changed recently. My car has Jon B high flow cats with stock O2 sensors and hasn't given me a single issue for at least 1,000 miles.

P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)
P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P0153 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Sounds like you have un-metered air in the system. Either the install was incorrect or you have leaks. I am assuming you used hightemp sealant everywhere you could? Would be great if you post some photos and DSE can comment as well.

[Steve M]

Could be a combination of both, but I lean towards the high flow cats being the issue here.

If you checked all hoses, you are probably fine there. There's no sealant to be used anywhere with those hoses (minus the connections on the can itself), so as long as they are tight and nothing is cracked (and you also didn't dislodge any of the other intake manifold hoses), that should be fine.

High flow cats can and will throw codes...some of it has to do with the PCM's calibration, and there's another large chunk that has to do with driving style. Mine threw codes after a few drives because I tend to spend a lot of time cruising around at low RPMs for extended periods of time. Some people have had luck just not lugging the car around (especially those trying to pass an OBD-II plug in test), but you may or may not be able to do that.

There are no free lunches with mods, although the DSE catch can is about as close as you can get to one. There are lots of people that swear up and down that high flow cats won't throw codes...I've not had that experience, granted that's with my Gen 4. It isn't a huge deal to me since I can just turn those codes off myself, but if you aren't willing to tune your car, then you are kinda stuck. Maybe the O2 sensor spacers would help.

Modding a car is a slippery slope.

[MoparJohn]

Did you use the PCV eliminator barb or connect to the stock PCV? Connecting to the stock one takes a lot of effort to get that hose to have a good connection. Could that connection point be a source of an air leak? An Arrow controller is the only way you can guarantee a modified exhaust wont through a code. The stock PCM doesn't love exhaust changes.

[BSLSK]

Thanks all. I will take some photos in the next couple days. I didn't use high temp sealant as Steve already pointed out, but I did use the supplied zip ties and tightened them up again just in case.

Did you use the PCV eliminator barb or connect to the stock PCV? Connecting to the stock one takes a lot of effort to get that hose to have a good connection. Could that connection point be a source of an air leak?

I used the stock PCV and it's a huge PITA to get on, but according to the DSE instructions it doesn't need to be fully seated to get a proper seal so I didn't think much of it. Sounds like this may be the culprit... Any tips besides the boiling water trick to get it on fully?

[MoparJohn]

I agree that hose is a huge PITA. you will only be able to get it on by two barbs max. Doug does sell a different barb you could use. You would remove the PCV valve and use the new barb in its place.

[Steve M]

Thanks all. I will take some photos in the next couple days. I didn't use high temp sealant as Steve already pointed out, but I did use the supplied zip ties and tightened them up again just in case.



I used the stock PCV and it's a huge PITA to get on, but according to the DSE instructions it doesn't need to be fully seated to get a proper seal so I didn't think much of it. Sounds like this may be the culprit... Any tips besides the boiling water trick to get it on fully?

I ended up taking a little material off of the barbs on mine, and used a heat gun to make sure the rubber was nice and pliable.

[ViperGeorge]

If the codes only showed up after the catch can install then dollars to donuts there is a leak somewhere. Is the catch can screwed together tightly? If so, then one of the hoses is not sealing or you inadvertently disturbed another vacuum or connector line somewhere. In the old days I would hook up my vacuum meter to an engine vacuum source and watch the needle. If it swung around and was not stable, there was a vacuum leak.

[outnumbered]

Last weekend I finished the single can sealed DSE catch can (passenger side) on my 2014 GTS. This past weekend I got the chance to take it out but got a CEL with permanent code P0174 and pending codes P0171 and P0153. Ran a little rough at idle but no issues on the highway. Pulled over to check the catch can hoses, everything is tight and fine. Got home and there is a lot of

I'm wondering if these codes can be related to the catch can install at all? That's the only thing I've changed recently. My car has Jon B high flow cats with stock O2 sensors and hasn't given me a single issue for at least 1,000 miles.

Could you finish off the last sentence in the first paragraph?

[Steve M]

Also make sure you use a little light oil on the hose before you try to push it on. As with some other things in life, you don't want to go in dry.

[BSLSK]

Could you finish off the last sentence in the first paragraph?

Sorry meant to say there was a lot of oil in the catch can after a 60 mile drive. When I say a lot probably about a teaspoon or more. Seems abnormal for only 60 miles?

Also make sure you use a little light oil on the hose before you try to push it on. As with some other things in life, you don't want to go in dry.

That's damn good advice right there.

[Steve M]

Sorry meant to say there was a lot of oil in the catch can after a 60 mile drive. When I say a lot probably about a teaspoon or more. Seems abnormal for only 60 miles?

Depends on your driving style. You'll fill a catch can the quickest if you do one of two things:

1. Heavy engine braking/decel - if you let it coast down from high RPMs, the intake manifold is pulling a heavy vacuum on the crankcase, which will pull oil through. A properly functioning PCV valve will prevent most of it from being pulled through, but not all (hence why you added a catch can)
2. Hard cornering/heavy braking - pretty much anything where you are pulling enough Gs that the oil in the valve cover pools towards the PCV valve.

I wouldn't consider it super abnormal. Just keep an eye on it. Maybe take a drive like a granny (if that's possible in a Viper) and see what happens then. The PCV valve location was changed from the Gen 4 to the Gen 5 - on the Gen 4, it is in the front of the passenger side valve cover, which is a perfect place for the oil to pool under heavy braking. Arrow would modify the valve covers by drilling/tapping a hole to move it to the side for heavily tracked cars to keep from pulling too much oil through to the intake. They applied this to the Gen 5, hence why you see the PCV valve and make-up air on the sides of the valve covers. An improvement for sure, but as you can see, it ain't perfect. The only way to 100% prevent oil from being sucked in is to vent the catch can to atmosphere, which comes with its own requirements and issues. For a street driven car, I would not do this.

[Scott_in_fl]

As with some other things in life, you don't want to go in dry.

It's great to see that this forum is still good for some laughs. The subtlety of the predicate was terrific.

[Evil v10]

BSLSk what did problem end up being ,l am curious I am about to do same mods to my car.

[BSLSK]

BSLSk what did problem end up being ,l am curious I am about to do same mods to my car.

Not yet, work has been crazy busy these past couple days. Probably have to wait and get to it this weekend.

[Evil v10]

Ok keep us posted.

[bluesrt]

vacuum leak/ air leak on those codes

[Bapple30]

I bought the upgraded heat shrink hose clamps that Doug offers with the kits. They work fantastic. They shrink right up super tight on the hoses and make for a no leak very clean look. I routed my hose to the intake a little different and used one of the heat shrink clamps on the plastic tube going to the intake. Here are a few pics I took after the install. Hope you get it worked out, good luck!
DSE1 001.jpg

DSE1 002.jpg

DSE1 003.jpg

[BSLSK]

Thanks for all the input everyone. I disconnected the hose from the PCV and reattached it. Cleared all codes and drove about 50 miles today. No codes, no issues, no rough idle.

[sadil]

Thanks for all the input everyone. I disconnected the hose from the PCV and reattached it. Cleared all codes and drove about 50 miles today. No codes, no issues, no rough idle.

The last photo there. The silver PCV connector from the rocker cover. Did you remove that? The dealer removed it to diagnose a vacuum leak and reinstalled it with low-temp thread sealant. Apparently morons don't know that engine's heat up. It caused a code and upon inspection I found that silver fitting lose. I reinstalled it using high temp thread sealant and cleared codes and it was fine.

Try to get the engine hot to induce leaks. A couple WOT pulls will do the trick.

Sarosh