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  1. #1

    Time for a suspension overhaul any recommendations

    I know Boosted has done this job already but I don't think he comes around here anymore. Curious if anyone else has converted over to Polyurethane bushings and had an opinion on them. I noticed a couple of my bushings are ripping apart in the passenger side upper control arm and the rest (front and rear) are all cracking so I think it's time to do some maintenance there. I converted my old 04 cobra over to Polyurethane when I noticed the same. It was a major PITA on that car so am assuming it will be able the same on the Viper, guess more time consuming than hard, so I'd like to do it right the first time.

    For ball joints - there seems to be quite a few option out there. Any recommendations?

    I've already replaced the steering rack bushings with the IPSCO, sway bar bushings (IPSCO) and shocks/springs (BC racing). Will plan on replacing the end links and outer tie rod ends while I'm in there. Anything else I should look at tackling while the car is apart?

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    +1
    And the original ball joints are galvanized. These replacements are not, so use an anti-seize compound. I used this in the can (photos are mixed up on amazon). https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Seize-Te..._dp&th=1&psc=1

    While it is all apart, clean up and spray the control arms with paint. For bushings, I used the Energy Suspension bushings but was unhappy with the end caps. Flimsy and not coated and they will rust easily. The OEM part seemed like it was galvanized.
    Last edited by AviP; 03-09-2020 at 10:37 PM.

  4. #4
    How difficult is it to replace the ball joints?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jance GTS View Post
    How difficult is it to replace the ball joints?
    Upper is screwed in and needs this 3/4" drive socket. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Lower needs to be pressed out. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton...ess-33497.html
    OEM balljoints are galvanized, replacements are not. To prevent galvanic corrosion, I used this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
    Boosted motorsports video is very helpful for bushings and paint and cleanup. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhPCB-zTUGA

  6. #6
    The uppers screw in so those should be fairly easy. The lower ones press in. I have a press already so I'm not to concerned but you'll need the right tools for that.

  7. #7
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    Pro tip if you do get the Howe ball joints. Buy them from Summit racing. Cheaper than direct from Howe's site, free shipping, and if you buy them all at once you would qualify for a discount at checkout because of the total cart price. Otherwise no complaints so far with my poly bushings and Howe ball joints. Also it is easiest to unscrew the uppers with the control arms mounted in the car. They can be very stuck.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Acoustics View Post
    Pro tip if you do get the Howe ball joints. Buy them from Summit racing. Cheaper than direct from Howe's site, free shipping, and if you buy them all at once you would qualify for a discount at checkout because of the total cart price. Otherwise no complaints so far with my poly bushings and Howe ball joints. Also it is easiest to unscrew the uppers with the control arms mounted in the car. They can be very stuck.
    Appreciate the tip of Summit racing. Is the discount a coupon that I need to look for? Also, the front and rear control arms use the same ball joints, right? So I need 4 uppers and 4 lowers it sounds like.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by AviP View Post
    That's right. Also, it needs to be loosened and tightened while the control arm is mounted on the vehicle because of the amount of force required. A third hand is needed to prevent the long handled wrench from slipping and hitting the bodywork as the socket to ball joint contact patch is very small.
    Good tips there especially the one about tightening them. Thanks!
    Last edited by 98RedGTS; 03-16-2020 at 02:54 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98RedGTS View Post
    Good tips there especially the one about tightening them. Thanks!
    The on the vehicle tip works great, there's a reason the ball joint socket is for a 3/4" drive....

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98RedGTS View Post
    Appreciate the tip of Summit racing. Is the discount a coupon that I need to look for? Also, the front and rear control arms use the same ball joints, right? So I need 4 uppers and 4 lowers it sounds like.
    I just looked apparently their "piston" promo code ends today which would get you an additional $30off your order if you bought all of them at once. Even if you don't order today they are still $12-13 cheaper per ball joint so you still save $100 over direct ordering. And yes you need 4 upper and 4 lower to do the whole car.

  11. #11
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    On the upper ball joints, I've not done a Viper, but done many older Mopars with the same style joint, be careful when installing. Make sure it's square because it's easy to cross-thread these interference fit ball joints.

  12. #12
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    That's right. Also, it needs to be loosened and tightened while the control arm is mounted on the vehicle because of the amount of force required. A third hand is needed to prevent the long handled wrench from slipping and hitting the bodywork as the socket to ball joint contact patch is very small.


 

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