Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 48 of 48

Thread: Gas tank weight

  1. #26
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by Back In Black View Post
    That's a large cell though. 26 gallons. I'm right at 3200 empty.
    aaah, ok. I'm going with just 10. really want 7, but looks like they don't make those FIA FT3

  2. #27
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Dana Point
    Posts
    1,690
    Quote Originally Posted by Back In Black View Post
    My Gen 4 tank shell is around 20 lbs. A Comp Coupe cell with bladder is about 40lbs.
    AZ, I do not know my cell weight it is from Fuel Safe. Keep in
    Mind the CC and x cells are 100 liters, 26 gallons. Stock Viper is 15 gallon?

    Look at the ATL site. They offer a Light Weight version, and a low as 5 gallons. The 8 gallon should work for what you do. I know it
    Last edited by RedTanRT/10; 02-23-2020 at 12:11 PM.

  3. #28
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Ok, well I got my answer. Looks like I will be keeping the factory fuel tank. As with everything on these Gen 5's, it's extremely light:

    Fuel tank 7.5 lbs
    Pump cap .7 lbs
    upper strap .3 lbs
    Lower strap .4 lbs
    Fuel filler tube .6 lbs
    Fuel pump 3.9 lbs

  4. #29
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    I wish it worked like this
    Not doing it anyway, fuel cell will add too much weight unfortunately. All the FIA FT3 10 gallons are way heavier than 7.5 lbs

  5. #30
    Agree with what SRT said

    You cant compare characteristics of a rear engine car like Porsche to a front engine car. The key is to keep your weight as close to 50/50 , as low as suspension geometry allows and between the axles preferably as close to center as possible . Dont move the fuel cell back

  6. #31
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by ACR Steve View Post
    Agree with what SRT said

    You cant compare characteristics of a rear engine car like Porsche to a front engine car. The key is to keep your weight as close to 50/50 , as low as suspension geometry allows and between the axles preferably as close to center as possible . Dont move the fuel cell back
    Dodge went through hell and back to get the Gen 5 to a rear weight bias, 49/51, so did AMG with the GTR 46/54, both are extremely fast track cars.

  7. #32
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    Your already fast why are you thinking of big structural and weight distribution changes? Have you tried everything else already no change in lap times??
    That's my hobby, making my car faster. Slowly just keep taking out weight. I'm leaving the factory fuel tank now though, can't find anything lighter. Car is about 2899 now with the cage. Want to get to 2799. For the record the fuel evap is 5.5 lbs alone!

  8. #33
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Greenwood Village, CO
    Posts
    3,797
    Quote Originally Posted by Arizona Vipers View Post
    That's my hobby, making my car faster. Slowly just keep taking out weight. I'm leaving the factory fuel tank now though, can't find anything lighter. Car is about 2899 now with the cage. Want to get to 2799. For the record the fuel evap is 5.5 lbs alone!
    Wow, 2899!!! Maybe you could hire a racing horse jockey to drive the car. That might get you close to your goal.

  9. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    Wow, 2899!!! Maybe you could hire a racing horse jockey to drive the car. That might get you close to your goal.
    no...they weigh like 130#....he's shooting for zero

  10. #35
    "Dodge went through hell and back to get the Gen 5 to a rear weight bias, 49/51, "

    That was so they could get as close to 50/50 as they can . By the way I show them at Weight Distribution (front / rear) (percentage) 49.6 / 50.4 thats basically 50/50 in my book


    If you are in a power to weight class why not just add some power . Its a lot easier and safer then trying to get lighter then you are
    Last edited by ACR Steve; 02-26-2020 at 04:31 PM.

  11. #36
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Easier to add more power than 803whp to lose weight? Please tell me how! Is there some secret shop I don't know about? How much can they get me? 900? 1000? I already lost 40 lbs this week alone, 2799 here we come.

  12. #37
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    Coming from a crew chief and race engineer point of view. You always want less weight no matter what, "every o.z. counts". Less weight = less mass to move and less mass to slow down and the benefits down the line from less weight. More HP is a good thing if you can use it in your application. Road course racing more HP then you can use effectively will cause a multitude of problems. 3.6:1 ( approx) power to weight ratio, with lots of tire.....You got plenty on the table to work with
    Yeah that's why those pesky Cup cars are so fast with just 500hp. When you're 2500 lbs, you're getting near prototype weight territory. It's hard to make a 3,000 lb car brake and corner like a 2500 lb car.

  13. #38
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    little tweaks and some fine tuning and you will get those cup cars
    Yeah that Cup Car that got me a few weeks ago, I beat him at Chuckwalla last weekend. Got him by over 2.5+ seconds both directions. I wasn't caught with old tires this time

  14. #39
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Moved battery inward and lower (Not a huge difference as the battery is an 8 lb Doug Shelby lithium, but every bit helps)

    60451222945__07534E45-2DA0-46BE-997B-82B9085A3BCC.jpg

  15. #40
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Miami
    Posts
    569
    Nice! Any chance you can share a zoomed out picture of the trunk?

  16. #41
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by kriskyk View Post
    Nice! Any chance you can share a zoomed out picture of the trunk?
    Here you go!

    IMG_2615.jpg

    IMG_2616.jpg

    IMG_2614.jpg

  17. #42
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Miami
    Posts
    569
    That's phenomenal!

  18. #43
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481

  19. #44
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Greenwood Village, CO
    Posts
    3,797
    With all the stuff you've taken out what holds the car together?

  20. #45
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Detroit, MI
    Posts
    1,183
    Hey hey, don’t throw any of the parts out. Send over what you don’t want!

  21. #46
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    With all the stuff you've taken out what holds the car together?
    Roll cage and duct tape and super glue
    What's funny is when people look at the car they think it's stock, not gutted. It looks 100% stock from the outside and when they peek in the full dash etc is still there.
    For example, we cut out the rear tail light housings from the inside and used LED strip tape for the lights. So the tail lights still look and operate like 100% stock, but that saved 6.5 lbs alone, and that's at the extreme rear of the car. We have done countless sneaky things like this.
    Last edited by Arizona Vipers; 03-03-2020 at 08:25 AM.

  22. #47
    Az, have you gone to a carbon drive shaft? Also, is the rear hatch window heavy? I wonder if lexan will drop some weight too.

  23. #48
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Paradise Valley
    Posts
    5,481
    Quote Originally Posted by serpent View Post
    Az, have you gone to a carbon drive shaft? Also, is the rear hatch window heavy? I wonder if lexan will drop some weight too.
    The carbon shaft is heavier than the factory shaft. Custom titanium is an option, but we are talking $15K to save 2-3 pounds. The rear glass is paper thin, it probably weighs 4 lbs.


 
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •