Unfortunately the guy I used in the past (and did excellent work) retired.
I'll ask around and see who others recommend in the area.
Unfortunately the guy I used in the past (and did excellent work) retired.
I'll ask around and see who others recommend in the area.
Awesome! I appreciate it.
I use the aluminum radiator from Viper Parts USA. It cost about $1200, but is fully welded and fits perfect. So far so good.
Here's some pics of the Howe Rad I got, You need to buy a tapered bung for the bottom of the Rad.
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Note the Blue aluminium angled bit I had to buy extra for the overflow pipe
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The attached threaded shafts which go through the top front of the Radiator support cover only just made it, so I had to use 1/2 nuts to get a good fit. (still, less weight)![]()
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The Box
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Ron, I did a little checking...just sent a name to you via text. Hoonin88 planned to stop there today on a scouting mission.
Smart guy. Best radiator out there and it would appear half the price of others. Minus the shipping cost to your side of the pond.
BTW, the bottom drain bung takes a pipe plug. I think the one off the OEM radiator fits. Also, if your bottom isolators are destroyed I came up with a cheap and simple piece to replace them. Having those isolators in good working condition is important.
Anyone have a link on how to bleed a rad without the inline bleeder valve mod? Getting mine rebuilt currently so I am going to need to get that done. Also any coolant recommendations? Thanks all any other input is welcomed.
For my 2002, I liked to use the Lisle spill free funnel method; although, reportedly, the system will purge the air itself if the pressure cap is working and the hose from the fender tank to the tank in the front bumper has a tight seal. The funnel method made me feel more confident because I could see it purging air.
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post166195
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post175353
The steps I took.
- Filled Radiator through the upper radiator hose. Once that was full to the point it was going to spill out of the hose I connected it and then
- Made sure the tank in the bumper was full (I actually made it about 3/4 full)
- Installed a Lisle Funnel and slowly filled until it stopped bubbling and then filled about half way
- topped off the overflow in the engine bay and filled Lisle Funnel about half full
- turned temp setting to full hot (to make sure the heater core purged as well)
- squeezed the upper hose several times (probably pointless but something I do)
- run car and watch the temp, make sure it gets hot and then starts to cool at the point the thermostat should open
- let it idle for a couple mins and then let the car cool with the Lisle Funnel still attached
- after car is cooled down I then remove the funnel
- run the car again and watch the temp gauge, after a couple of mins I shut the car off and let it cool again
- after the car is cool again I check the overflow in the bumper and make sure it is half to 3/4 full now and add more to it if necessary
For filling the overflow in the bumper you fill it through the one in the engine bay. I personally use a turkey baster and push fluid through the small hole where the cap is installed.
The Viper cooling system purges itself pretty good unless you get an air gap at the waterpump. This is why I watch the gauge so closely at the first start up.
Radiator vacuum refill bleeder kit - Amazon has a bunch of them.
Keep the temp dial turned to HOT so the heater core is always being purged/refreshed with fluid...plus the heater core circuit exits at the top of the T-stat housing where an air gap can exist if you don't force it to purge. I keep mine in that position at all times (even in the middle of summer in Florida) since it doesn't affect the AC temp. AC is nice and cold even with the temp dial turned to hot. Never good to let fluid sit in a heater core unused for months/years.
lol funnel conceptual operation 101:
-> The funnel fills the entire hole where both the liquid enters and the air escapes.
-> Pouring liquid in to the funnel blocks the exit of air hence the air must bubble and gurgle past the liquid level.
The absolute only thing the funnel does is reduce the amount of spillage. It does nothing to extract extra air from the system that just pouring it in won't do.
On to other topics, if you don't have a drilled thermostat or vented upper hose the vacuum fill might be a good accessory. Absolutely unnecessary if you do vent and/or have a drilled thermostat when filling.
The best coolant to use is the Mopar HOAT orange. That comes from Dan Lesser if you really want to know.
lol at the lesson. I absolutely understand how the funnel works and what it does. I like to see the coolant expand into it, see air bubble out through the coolant, see the level drop, see when the thermostat opens. All without the possibility of coolant overflowing, and easy access to pour more in if needed. I enjoy the simple things in life.
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