Updated 2013 Twin Turbo home build

[Andyk753]

So i have been on deployment with the navy for the past year and finally home and ready to start the transformation on the viper. I want every one to know that i am not a shop, just a guy with tools and skills that cant afford one of the great shop builds. This thread is not to take away from any of the shops that do the twin turbo builds, they put out great machines but im not rich so here we are lol. Of course there are better parts here and there that i can get but have settled on doing it the cheapest way and upgrading as i go/need. Motec will be in the future but for now we are going to try HP tuners since im aiming for low boost 4psi and 700 to 800hp. Here is the parts list so far.

Precision PT-6766 CEA Turbos going to go with the v band clamps all around and not ball bearing. $2700

Turbo blankets and hot side wrap $300

Oil Scavenge Pump $100 (not sure if it will be needed do to turbo location, used a universal pump on other turbo builds and lasted years with no fails could go name brand but cost will go up)

Blow off valve two for $200 ( price could go up if you use name brand valves)

Got a universal turbo pipe kit $200 (will have to fab a little and might have to get odd and ends to get it all done, so price will go up a little)

universal 2 in 2 out 2.5 inch inlet/outlet intercooler $260 (could use name brand but price will go up)

Waste Gates $200 ( price could go up if you use name brand valves)

Exhaust pipe/clamps $150 (dont need a whole lot since its a small sec of hot side just req fabbing)

Fuel pump two 450lph Walbro $220, not sure on the hanger yet only one i can find is RSI and they dont have a price.

Not sure on Fuel Injectors yet found Injector Dynamics injectors for $1200 should just need 80lb/hr.

Aeromotive 13109 fuel Regulator $180 (only reason im using this one is because i have it sitting on the shelf from a old race car i had)

Stainless Steel Fuel Line/fittings -6an $300 est (might use the stock lines as return lines and just run one stainless steel line and that would bring the cost down even lower)

HP Tuners MPVI2 Suite $1300

Boost Controller $300

Dyno/tune time $600 (took 3hrs of dyno and tuner time for the gen 3 viper, so going to say its a ruff est)

[Andyk753]

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For fuel i went with a Fore innovations 3 pump hanger with 2 450LPh pumps and there FC3 controller. For pumps, hanger, controller, and wire harness it came out to $1068.00 Installed the controller last night and waitting on fuel pressure gauge for full pump and line install. I mounted the controller in the rear right under the Battery cover, going to run the wires under the carpet and i think its the simplest and easy to get to place to install.

[kriskyk]

Nice! How many lbs/min are those turbos spec'd for?

Did you take a look at Both Warners EFRs with integrated BOV?

What's your target PSI?

[Andyk753]

There 67mm Turbos and rated for 900hp each. I wanted to go with Precision because thats what all the kits you can buy come with so no need to go out side of the box along with i have the BOV and waste gates all ready from another turbo build i did. Target PSI is around 4 to 5. If i calculated correctly i should need 4.5 psi to see a little over 700hp. That calculation is just from seeing what other people are making on stock vipers at boost lvls. Might need more or less to make my goal of 700-800hp wont know till we are on the dyno lol

[kriskyk]

4-5 PSI seems doable on the OEM ECM but beyond that it will be be interesting...

Turbos are way oversized for that PSI target, turbo lag will be pretty apparent.

45lb/min twins should get you to about 800hp at the crank at 4.5PSI vs the ~85lb/min turbos you have.

Are you planning to go BIG later on?

[Andyk753]

Yes planning on going motec and 1000+ later not to worried about turbo lag since i do alot of road racing and plan on spending most of my time in the upper rpm range.

[SLP]

What's the plan for turbo manifolds? Cheers and good luck. I'm self installing heads/cam/valvetrain/clutch/trans/custom exhaust right now. If you ever need to talk shop about anything like that feel free to reach out.

[Andyk753]

stock manifolds and hot side fab.

[kriskyk]

Big thumbs up to you for paving the way!!! Will be more than likely doing something similar come next winter project but with smaller turbos & E100 and no intercooler.

[Andyk753]

Thanks paving the way noob style lol

[Whiskey]

Congrats on starting the build. I'll be doing the same but with a Paxton prob next year after I sell of my Gen3 motor, trans, rearend(gen4) and AEM. I'm keeping my AEM W/M, fuel system and Paxton to put on the G5.

[Andyk753]

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[Andyk753]

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[Andyk753]

Installed the Fore innovations fuel pumps, hanger, 8an lines, and aeromotive fuel pressure reg. Set fuel pressure to 50psi. I recommend the pump and hanger kit i got from Fore Innovations at 1000k its the cheapest and simplest install that i found. The stock fuel level sensor install was simple from the old to the new hanger. I used blue wire taps to tap in to the stock harness for the fuel level gauge and the 12v pump control. Tried to use the simplest and non invasive electrical way. I also tried to keep the stock cover but had to cut it to fit the AN fittings.

[kriskyk]

Can you share the part #s for the pumps, hangar, controller, etc...?

[Andyk753]

67-900 if you go to fore invvotions web site or https://www.foreinnovations.com/Vipe...e_p/67-900.htm or link.

[kriskyk]

Go figure they already have a kit, nice!

[Steve M]

If those are rubber lined stainless braided fuel lines, I'd strongly suggest you ditch them and use PTFE lined stainless hose instead, like this:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3480

Unfortunately, they use different fittings, so you'd pretty much have to start over, and they ain't cheap.

The only reason I say that is from personal experience...I replumbed one of my previous rides with stainless braided fuel line (rubber lined), and after about a year, the lines started leeching fumes. The ethanol in standard pump gas was enough to start eating at the rubber lining, to the point where it smelled like I had a constant fuel leak (it smelled like I had an open gas can in my garage). I wasn't willing to wait and find out what would have happened if I had let it go any longer. Once I replaced the lines with what I linked above, the problem went away.

[Jack B]

Very nice, one minor suggestion, those parallel wire taps are a common failure point when used in a continuous current carrying application. An alternate approach could be a terminal block or a wye type pin connector rated for at least 1.5X the pump current.

[Steve M]

Very nice, one minor suggestion, those parallel wire taps are a common failure point when used in a continuous current carrying application. An alternate approach could be a terminal block or a wye type pin connector rated for at least 1.5X the pump current.

Agreed...those things need to go.

[ICPREY]

If those are rubber lined stainless braided fuel lines, I'd strongly suggest you ditch them and use PTFE lined stainless hose instead, like this:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3480

Unfortunately, they use different fittings, so you'd pretty much have to start over, and they ain't cheap.

The only reason I say that is from personal experience...I replumbed one of my previous rides with stainless braided fuel line (rubber lined), and after about a year, the lines started leeching fumes. The ethanol in standard pump gas was enough to start eating at the rubber lining, to the point where it smelled like I had a constant fuel leak (it smelled like I had an open gas can in my garage). I wasn't willing to wait and find out what would have happened if I had let it go any longer. Once I replaced the lines with what I linked above, the problem went away.

I've had the same issue with the stainless/rubber hoses. I'm not a huge fan of the wire taps either. They are easier/faster, but at this point why not just make it a guaranteed solid connection. The cost is minor.

[jasond29]

You can order the OEM connector from Casper electronics, both the male and female ends with pins. I used them when I made my fuel pump hanger.

[ellowviper]

If those are rubber lined stainless braided fuel lines, I'd strongly suggest you ditch them and use PTFE lined stainless hose instead, like this:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3480

Unfortunately, they use different fittings, so you'd pretty much have to start over, and they ain't cheap.

The only reason I say that is from personal experience...I replumbed one of my previous rides with stainless braided fuel line (rubber lined), and after about a year, the lines started leeching fumes. The ethanol in standard pump gas was enough to start eating at the rubber lining, to the point where it smelled like I had a constant fuel leak (it smelled like I had an open gas can in my garage). I wasn't willing to wait and find out what would have happened if I had let it go any longer. Once I replaced the lines with what I linked above, the problem went away.

THIS!!! Got into a huge argument in the past over this issue. YES they "weep" "leech" or do whatever you want to call it, but the gas fumes come from the SS lines. It was driving me crazy until I replaced them all.

[Jack B]

You can order the OEM connector from Casper electronics, both the male and female ends with pins. I used them when I made my fuel pump hanger.

Mouser is another source, you will also need the correct crimp tool. In addition, verify the the FLA of the new pumps and select the correct wire size, this in turn guides you to the correctly sized connector.

[jasond29]

Jack B, Mouser is the place where I got them, you are correct. You also need to ensure you choose the correct pin size for the gauge wire as well. Makes for a plug in play install. I actually used Racetronix fuel pump hotwire kit and changed the connectors to dodge OEM specific, this gives you 14 gauge wire straight from the alternator for the higher draw amperage of the larger pumps.