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  1. #1
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    Wheel Hub and Suspension Recommend Tools

    Are there specific types of

    hub pullers

    ball joint separators

    or wheel stud pullers that work best for Vipers?

    Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by kriskyk; 12-17-2019 at 11:30 PM.

  2. #2
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    When removing the studs, I pushed them out using washers and a lug nut with an impact.

    When installing the studs, I used a free rental puller from the auto parts store. The basic ball joint ones I believe that are c shape. The gap in between may not be big enough for the head of the stud so you will have to use a grinder to eat away some of the material in the channel. Once that is done, all it takes is alignment and impact.

    It was an easy job, but need that impact and a vice to hold things in place!

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by sadil View Post
    When removing the studs, I pushed them out using washers and a lug nut with an impact.

    When installing the studs, I used a free rental puller from the auto parts store. The basic ball joint ones I believe that are c shape. The gap in between may not be big enough for the head of the stud so you will have to use a grinder to eat away some of the material in the channel. Once that is done, all it takes is alignment and impact.

    It was an easy job, but need that impact and a vice to hold things in place!
    This sounds dyslexic

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by kriskyk View Post
    Are there specific types of

    hub pullers

    ball joint separators

    or wheel stud pullers that work best for Vipers?

    Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
    Dodge has a specific tool for removing wheel studs. I bought it online for like $90. It pushes the stud out. The model number of the tool is listed in the service manual. I don't have it in front of me or I would give you the number. Do not hammer studs out as the manual says this can damage the hub bearing.

  5. #5
    You're not likely to need hub pullers unless they're rusted onto the knuckle. On my "higher mileage" 2013, they slid right off once unbolted.

    Don't try to remove the axle nut on the front 2 hubs. Pull the whole assembly off. On the rear, the axle nut does need to come off to get the hub off.

    I used a cheap 6-ton shop press to press all the OEM studs out and had no problem. When it came time to press the new Jegs .594 knurl studs in, I broke the press. It wasn't enough. I ended up paying a performance shop around the corner to install the rest and I think they used a puller like the guys above.
    Last edited by txA&M08; 12-18-2019 at 01:15 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Special Ed View Post
    This sounds dyslexic
    I suggest going back to special ed! It’s just direction, not a snippet from a service manual

    OP, here is my procedure. No special tools needed.

    https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ll-on-my-17-TA
    Last edited by sadil; 12-18-2019 at 05:48 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by sadil View Post
    When removing the studs, I pushed them out using washers and a lug nut with an impact.

    When installing the studs, I used a free rental puller from the auto parts store. The basic ball joint ones I believe that are c shape. The gap in between may not be big enough for the head of the stud so you will have to use a grinder to eat away some of the material in the channel. Once that is done, all it takes is alignment and impact.

    It was an easy job, but need that impact and a vice to hold things in place!
    Can you describe the technique you use to push out the studs in more detail? How do you use washers and impact to push them out? Do you use adjacent studs with huge washers that cover the broken stud and then torque them out with the impact? I don't understand how you do this.

  8. #8
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    Now I see the confusion. The procedure is right but flip install and remove in my original post.

    For removal, you use the ball stud removal tool with an impact. For install you use the washers/nuts with impact. Check out my procedure for more detail.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    Dodge has a specific tool for removing wheel studs. I bought it online for like $90. It pushes the stud out. The model number of the tool is listed in the service manual. I don't have it in front of me or I would give you the number. Do not hammer studs out as the manual says this can damage the hub bearing.

    Capture.jpgCapture2.jpg
    Last edited by ViperTony; 12-18-2019 at 09:47 PM.

  10. #10
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    Thanks all found it for $104 shipped

    https://www.moparessentialtools.com/...002&type=tools

  11. #11
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    I used an old lug nut and hammer to remove the studs. It doesn't take much to pop them out.

    The front hub, if you file the detents with a flat file or hacksaw blade you can remove the nut and replace the hub/bearing. The hubs (front/rear) slip off easily once the nut is removed, no need for a puller.

  12. #12
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    Here's what I used. They rent them for free as well.

    https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...7CL4*-49996598

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LATAMUD View Post
    I used an old lug nut and hammer to remove the studs. It doesn't take much to pop them out.

    The front hub, if you file the detents with a flat file or hacksaw blade you can remove the nut and replace the hub/bearing. The hubs (front/rear) slip off easily once the nut is removed, no need for a puller.
    As I posted earlier. This is not a technique recommended in the service manual. It specifically states that damage to and premature failure of the hub bearing is possible using this procedure. Personally I would not recommend it.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by sadil View Post
    Now I see the confusion. The procedure is right but flip install and remove in my original post.

    For removal, you use the ball stud removal tool with an impact. For install you use the washers/nuts with impact. Check out my procedure for more detail.
    Ok, you had me going there. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how you could remove the studs with some washers and an impact gun.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kriskyk View Post
    Thanks all found it for $104 shipped

    https://www.moparessentialtools.com/...002&type=tools
    Yup, that's the tool I bought. Small enough to carry with you. I also carry extra studs just in case. I really need to get some of those metal gaskets that sit behind the hub as well. While I did re-use my old ones the service manual says they should be replaced every time.

  15. #15
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    What tool or method did you use for the upper ball joint or is it not necessary?
    Last edited by kriskyk; 12-19-2019 at 09:13 AM.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    As I posted earlier. This is not a technique recommended in the service manual. It specifically states that damage to and premature failure of the hub bearing is possible using this procedure. Personally I would not recommend it.

    - - - Updated - - -



    Ok, you had me going there. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how you could remove the studs with some washers and an impact gun.

    That's why I thought it sounded dyslexic.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Special Ed View Post
    That's why I thought it sounded dyslexic.
    Ahhh, Good one! I have to admit when I first read your post I didn't understand why you said that, I guess it was a bit too clever for me or maybe I had too much wine before reading it. Yea, I'm going with the later.

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    Ahhh, Good one! I have to admit when I first read your post I didn't understand why you said that, I guess it was a bit too clever for me or maybe I had too much wine before reading it. Yea, I'm going with the later.
    George I have read many of your posts and you always have a grasp on the subject. So yea it probably was the wine LOL.

  19. #19
    sharmut
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    Quote Originally Posted by kriskyk View Post
    What tool or method did you use for the upper ball joint or is it not necessary?
    If I recall the upper ball joints are threaded on. Just need a large open end wrench.


 

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