Are there specific types of
hub pullers
ball joint separators
or wheel stud pullers that work best for Vipers?
Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Are there specific types of
hub pullers
ball joint separators
or wheel stud pullers that work best for Vipers?
Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Last edited by kriskyk; 12-18-2019 at 12:30 AM.
When removing the studs, I pushed them out using washers and a lug nut with an impact.
When installing the studs, I used a free rental puller from the auto parts store. The basic ball joint ones I believe that are c shape. The gap in between may not be big enough for the head of the stud so you will have to use a grinder to eat away some of the material in the channel. Once that is done, all it takes is alignment and impact.
It was an easy job, but need that impact and a vice to hold things in place!
I suggest going back to special ed! It’s just direction, not a snippet from a service manual
OP, here is my procedure. No special tools needed.
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ll-on-my-17-TA
Last edited by sadil; 12-18-2019 at 06:48 PM.
Can you describe the technique you use to push out the studs in more detail? How do you use washers and impact to push them out? Do you use adjacent studs with huge washers that cover the broken stud and then torque them out with the impact? I don't understand how you do this.
Dodge has a specific tool for removing wheel studs. I bought it online for like $90. It pushes the stud out. The model number of the tool is listed in the service manual. I don't have it in front of me or I would give you the number. Do not hammer studs out as the manual says this can damage the hub bearing.
Last edited by ViperTony; 12-18-2019 at 10:47 PM.
You're not likely to need hub pullers unless they're rusted onto the knuckle. On my "higher mileage" 2013, they slid right off once unbolted.
Don't try to remove the axle nut on the front 2 hubs. Pull the whole assembly off. On the rear, the axle nut does need to come off to get the hub off.
I used a cheap 6-ton shop press to press all the OEM studs out and had no problem. When it came time to press the new Jegs .594 knurl studs in, I broke the press. It wasn't enough. I ended up paying a performance shop around the corner to install the rest and I think they used a puller like the guys above.
Last edited by txA&M08; 12-18-2019 at 02:15 PM.
Now I see the confusion. The procedure is right but flip install and remove in my original post.
For removal, you use the ball stud removal tool with an impact. For install you use the washers/nuts with impact. Check out my procedure for more detail.
Thanks all found it for $104 shipped
https://www.moparessentialtools.com/...002&type=tools
Yup, that's the tool I bought. Small enough to carry with you. I also carry extra studs just in case. I really need to get some of those metal gaskets that sit behind the hub as well. While I did re-use my old ones the service manual says they should be replaced every time.
I used an old lug nut and hammer to remove the studs. It doesn't take much to pop them out.
The front hub, if you file the detents with a flat file or hacksaw blade you can remove the nut and replace the hub/bearing. The hubs (front/rear) slip off easily once the nut is removed, no need for a puller.
As I posted earlier. This is not a technique recommended in the service manual. It specifically states that damage to and premature failure of the hub bearing is possible using this procedure. Personally I would not recommend it.
- - - Updated - - -
Ok, you had me going there. I couldn't for the life of me figure out how you could remove the studs with some washers and an impact gun.
Here's what I used. They rent them for free as well.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...7CL4*-49996598
What tool or method did you use for the upper ball joint or is it not necessary?
Last edited by kriskyk; 12-19-2019 at 10:13 AM.
Bookmarks