Help Anyone changed the shifter not the stick or knob but the actual shifter

[stradman]

Hi guys,
I am having some difficulty in shifting into some gears so I am going to try firstly changing the
shifter that attaches onto gearbox,to see if that helps. However I just wanted to know if this is possible to do from the center console
without lowering the gearbox.
If so please let me know.
Cheers

This is what it looks like

shifter.jpg

This is what is under the gearstick gaiter(picture from Billswebspace)
So before I start removing rivets just wanted to see if this was indeed possible

gearstick.jpg

[SLP]

I doubt that's the issue. Could you explain what you mean by you're having difficulty getting into certain gears? Are your syncros going out?

[Arizona Vipers]

Which shifter would you switch it to? Like from another car/application?
IMO our shifter sucks, on track I shift like a grandma for fear of missing a shift, I could gain time with a better shifter. I take my son's Civic Type R on track once in awhile and that shifter is 100% absolutely perfect.

[Jack B]

1. You might be able to change the shifter (top side) if you drill out the rivets on the boot. That was routine on the G1 and G2. Replace them with threaded inserts. I am pulling my trans in a couple of weeks, I will pull the boot to see if it works.

Pulling the shifter plate might make pulling the trans easier. Depending on the type of header/exhausts you have the trans might not drop enough to slide it back, removing the shifter plate might might give you enough clearance. Remember to pull the airbox before lowering the trans.

2. The G5 has a billet top plate vs a stamped plate on the G4 and earlier, therefore, it should be better.

3. I did break part (plastic bushing) of the plate's underside, it made the shifting erratic, even at idle. From memory, it was under $150. I also ordered a spare

[stradman]

I doubt that's the issue. Could you explain what you mean by you're having difficulty getting into certain gears? Are your syncros going out?

Physically, gear just won't go in/engage sometimes...

Which shifter would you switch it to? Like from another car/application?
IMO our shifter sucks, on track I shift like a grandma for fear of missing a shift, I could gain time with a better shifter. I take my son's Civic Type R on track once in awhile and that shifter is 100% absolutely perfect.

Well I spoke to Scot at Prefix and he said he's had a couple of guys who experienced the same and just replacing the shifter helped. I need to try to exclude the simpler things first before resorting to pulling apart the gearbox.

1. You might be able to change the shifter (top side) if you drill out the rivets on the boot. That was routine on the G1 and G2. Replace them with threaded inserts. I am pulling my trans in a couple of weeks, I will pull the boot to see if it works.

Pulling the shifter plate might make pulling the trans easier. Depending on the type of header/exhausts you have the trans might not drop enough to slide it back, removing the shifter plate might might give you enough clearance. Remember to pull the airbox before lowering the trans.

2. The G5 has a billet top plate vs a stamped plate on the G4 and earlier, therefore, it should be better.

3. I did break part (plastic bushing) of the plate's underside, it made the shifting erratic, even at idle. From memory, it was under $150. I also ordered a spare

Thanks Jack those are helpful tips. I'm running Belangers Headers and midpipes so don't know if those affect the gearbox. Yes my shifting is erratic atm so perhaps there is a shifter issue-but I need to try replacing at least.
Would you know if its very difficult dropping the gearbox down if I need to get to it from below? Thanks for the help.

[ViperNC]

Physically, gear just won't go in/engage sometimes...Well I spoke to Scot at Prefix and he said he's had a couple of guys who experienced the same and just replacing the shifter helped. I need to try to exclude the simpler things first before resorting to pulling apart the gearbox.

If I recall correctly, you started having problems shifting on the track recently. Is it happening during normal driving now as well? Which gear(s) or is it random?

[Jack B]

Physically, gear just won't go in/engage sometimes...


Well I spoke to Scot at Prefix and he said he's had a couple of guys who experienced the same and just replacing the shifter helped. I need to try to exclude the simpler things first before resorting to pulling apart the gearbox.



Thanks Jack those are helpful tips. I'm running Belangers Headers and midpipes so don't know if those affect the gearbox. Yes my shifting is erratic atm so perhaps there is a shifter issue-but I need to try replacing at least.
Would you know if its very difficult dropping the gearbox down if I need to get to it from below? Thanks for the help.

I would try drilling out the boot rivets, this did allow topside access on the G1/G2. If you can wait a couple of weeks, I can tell you for sure. If you let the trans down as far as it will go, I believe you will still need a crows foot wrench from the top side to loosen the plate.

[stradman]

If I recall correctly, you started having problems shifting on the track recently. Is it happening during normal driving now as well? Which gear(s) or is it random?

Well not so much in street driving, although Reverse is getting a bit harder. It seems the shifter moves into its slot but gear hasn't engaged. Also shifting action a bit vague from time to time.
Of course on the track when you are shifting much quicker it seems 4th to 5th action is the hardest....

[stradman]

I would try drilling out the boot rivets, this did allow topside access on the G1/G2. If you can wait a couple of weeks, I can tell you for sure. If you let the trans down as far as it will go, I believe you will still need a crows foot wrench from the top side to loosen the plate.

Well my mechanic is picking up car this week so he will get on it within a few days.. I'll keep you posted on what we find.

[SRT_BluByU]

Might try different fluid first

[stradman]

Might try different fluid first

Already did that

[AZTVR]

Could it be that plastic (or nylon?) isolator bushing/cup that the lower ball end of the shifter fits into? I can picture it breaking or maybe wearing in one area such that the shifter can no longer push the rod and fork far enough to engage a gear. I know that aftermarket produces a bronze version for T56; but, probably results in more vibration and sound transmission as a trade off for better wear and shift feel.

[Steve M]

Physically, gear just won't go in/engage sometimes...


Well I spoke to Scot at Prefix and he said he's had a couple of guys who experienced the same and just replacing the shifter helped. I need to try to exclude the simpler things first before resorting to pulling apart the gearbox.

I'm going out on a limb and raising the bullshit flag. If you're having a hard time getting it in gear, it's one of a few things:

1. Bad/cooked clutch hydraulic fluid
2. Clutch isn't releasing (possibly caused by #1)
3. You have an internal transmission problem
4. You have a shifting technique problem (poor hand placement)

Sure, replacing the shifter is certainly cheaper than a clutch replacement or transmission rebuild, but when's the last time you heard of a shifter failing? Maybe if the centering spring breaks, but you'd know if that was the case.

[stradman]

I'm going out on a limb and raising the bullshit flag. If you're having a hard time getting it in gear, it's one of a few things:

1. Bad/cooked clutch hydraulic fluid
2. Clutch isn't releasing (possibly caused by #1)
3. You have an internal transmission problem
4. You have a shifting technique problem (poor hand placement)

Sure, replacing the shifter is certainly cheaper than a clutch replacement or transmission rebuild, but when's the last time you heard of a shifter failing? Maybe if the centering spring breaks, but you'd know if that was the case.

Well never had a problem with gearshift changes before on track and I don't think my technique has changed. The gearbox had new internals about 3k miles ago. Isn't the clutch fluid the same as the brake fluid using the same reservoir? Well I believe my mechanic changed all that recently....
I'll know soon when I eliminate all obvious issues whether its something more sinister inside box.

[Steve M]

Well never had a problem with gearshift changes before on track and I don't think my technique has changed. The gearbox had new internals about 3k miles ago. Isn't the clutch fluid the same as the brake fluid using the same reservoir? Well I believe my mechanic changed all that recently....
I'll know soon when I eliminate all obvious issues whether its something more sinister inside box.

On Gen 5s, yes, the brake and clutch fluid share the same reservoir.

Also, just because your transmission was rebuilt recently doesn't mean it was done correctly.

[Jack B]

I'm going out on a limb and raising the bullshit flag. If you're having a hard time getting it in gear, it's one of a few things:

1. Bad/cooked clutch hydraulic fluid
2. Clutch isn't releasing (possibly caused by #1)
3. You have an internal transmission problem
4. You have a shifting technique problem (poor hand placement)

Sure, replacing the shifter is certainly cheaper than a clutch replacement or transmission rebuild, but when's the last time you heard of a shifter failing? Maybe if the centering spring breaks, but you'd know if that was the case.

Steve

When that plastic bushing breaks it feels just like an internal trans issue.

[Steve M]

Steve

When that plastic bushing breaks it feels just like an internal trans issue.

The shifter isolator cup? Yeah, I could see that being a possible issue. Whatever you do, don't replace it with a bronze one...did that in my last car, and OMG the NVH that caused.

[ViperTony]

3. I did break part (plastic bushing) of the plate's underside, it made the shifting erratic, even at idle. From memory, it was under $150. I also ordered a spare

Jack, did you order a new shifter or were you able to get the bushing itself? thanks.

[Jack B]

Jack, did you order a new shifter or were you able to get the bushing itself? thanks.

It was the whole plate assembly.

[ViperNC]

Well not so much in street driving, although Reverse is getting a bit harder. It seems the shifter moves into its slot but gear hasn't engaged. Also shifting action a bit vague from time to time.
Of course on the track when you are shifting much quicker it seems 4th to 5th action is the hardest....

I had a similar problem on my GT500 I tracked, but mainly street car. Mine was shifting hardest into 3rd gear and the brake/clutch fluid was from the same reservoir as well. Turned out the brand new Shelby Racing (made by ACE) clutch and slave cylinder was the problem. I only had 2000 miles on that clutch and we had shimmed everything properly. The slave cylinder was not completely disengaging the clutch and it wore out the clutch plate extremely quickly. I don't have a photo anymore, but it looked like the external tiles of the space shuttle after re-entry and I had only done 1 track day at that point. Ruined my aluminum flywheel as well. We went back with a McLeod RXT setup and my shifting problem was gone immediately. I never could understand why the problem presented itself more frequently in only one or two gears and was convinced I had a problem with the shifter or transmission. Maybe this will help you since you'll likely have to drop the transmission anyway.

[stradman]

I had a similar problem on my GT500 I tracked, but mainly street car. Mine was shifting hardest into 3rd gear and the brake/clutch fluid was from the same reservoir as well. Turned out the brand new Shelby Racing (made by ACE) clutch and slave cylinder was the problem. I only had 2000 miles on that clutch and we had shimmed everything properly. The slave cylinder was not completely disengaging the clutch and it wore out the clutch plate extremely quickly. I don't have a photo anymore, but it looked like the external tiles of the space shuttle after re-entry and I had only done 1 track day at that point. Ruined my aluminum flywheel as well. We went back with a McLeod RXT setup and my shifting problem was gone immediately. I never could understand why the problem presented itself more frequently in only one or two gears and was convinced I had a problem with the shifter or transmission. Maybe this will help you since you'll likely have to drop the transmission anyway.

Interesting. I'm running Nth Moto Clutch but I presume its the same slave cylinder? Anyone had problems with Nth Moto?

[Renn23]

I've heard of other Gen V's that are tracked hard running H&C or 9L's developing shifting issues as well. Tom Sessions mentioned that it may be related to the stock shifter/transmission having plastic shims. I believe Calvo and potentially Prefix have a service that upgrades them to Brass shims. This could be completely off base but may be worth looking into.

[Jack B]

Interesting. I'm running Nth Moto Clutch but I presume its the same slave cylinder? Anyone had problems with Nth Moto?

The NthMoto clutch uses the oem slave. In general the problem described with the GT is going to be a slave that is shimmed out too far. On my car the NthMoto supplied shim was a tight fit over over the trans boss. I do not think it was meant to be that tight. I torqued the assembly to the factory value and it did not pull the shim flush, I am lucky I caught the issue.

[stradman]

The NthMoto clutch uses the oem slave. In general the problem described with the GT is going to be a slave that is shimmed out too far. On my car the NthMoto supplied shim was a tight fit over over the trans boss. I do not think it was meant to be that tight. I torqued the assembly to the factory value and it did not pull the shim flush, I am lucky I caught the issue.

Well I don't know I had Prefix fit the Nth Moto Clutch. I have to assume that Scot and the guys knew how to fit it and fitted/torqued it as it should so hopefully won't be issue. maybe if Scot reads this he can pick up on it?

[Jack B]

Well I don't know I had Prefix fit the Nth Moto Clutch. I have to assume that Scot and the guys knew how to fit it and fitted/torqued it as it should so hopefully won't be issue. maybe if Scot reads this he can pick up on it?

If Prefix did the job is was done right