Is there any "how to" clutch bleeding write ups for the Gen 5

[ViperGTS14]

Never done a clutch bleed before and I was advise to since I'm having issues engaging into gear as if the clutch isn't all the way disengaged. Any help would be great. Thanks

[Steve-Indy]

Gen V clutch is "self bleeding"...and, shares reservoir with brakes.

[ViperGTS14]

Gen V clutch is "self bleeding"...and, shares reservoir with brakes.

I've heard this but was suggested to attempt to bleed since my viper clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I'm getting hard to shift in gear when parked in any gear and as it does go into gear its moving the car as if the clutch isn't stopping.

[Jack B]

I've heard this but was suggested to attempt to bleed since my viper clutch isn't disengaging all the way. I'm getting hard to shift in gear when parked in any gear and as it does go into gear its moving the car as if the clutch isn't stopping.

It is not the hydraulics. Twin and triple disc clutches have many benefits, the negative is the lack of disc clearance when fully depressed, one of your disks or plates is distorted. BTW, the self bleed feature works.

[ViperGTS14]

It is not the hydraulics. Twin and triple disc clutches have many benefits, the negative is the lack of disc clearance when fully depressed, one of your disks or plates is distorted. BTW, the self bleed feature works.

Thanks jack for the response. Wouldn’t I feel some type of chatter if one was warped?

[Jack B]

Thanks jack for the response. Wouldn’t I feel some type of chatter if one was warped?

We are talking out of tolerance by a a few thousands. It is just enough to keep the input shaft spinning, therefore, making the synchro's over work.

[ViperGTS14]

So what do you suggest. Replace clutch or shim?

[Jack B]

So what do you suggest. Replace clutch or shim?

First verify the clutch is not releasing: on a level surface (not moving) put the car in 1st gear, push the clutch all the way down and bring the revs up to 4000, if the car creeps the clutch is not releasing; second test, on the road in 1st gear, get the speed up to approx 30 mph, then, push the clutch to the floor, bring the revs up to 4000-5000, if the engine continues to move the car, the clutch is not releasing.

If the clutch is not releasing there is no other solution other than changing the clutch. If you do not intend to use drag radials, a new factory oem clutch is not a bad choice. You will have to check to see that the flywheel is not compromised, if you have to replace the flywheel, the cost is at a point where the Nth Moto clutch package might be a good pick.

[1.8t]

^ I just jack the rear tires off the ground and put it in first. If the tires turn while the clutch is depressed, your clutch is dragging.

[1.8t]

Make sure you also torqued your pressure plate down evenly assuming this issue came after changing your clutch.

[SRT_BluByU]

Jack would he be able to resurface his flywheel if needed or is the viper flywheel one of those non-machinable two piece jobbers?

[ViperGTS14]

Ok this is weird. Since I had her on the lift I put to jacks towards the rear sub frame and lowered her down just enough so the rear tires would be off the lift. Hoped in and tried what was suggested. Guess what, 110 x better as if there was no issues at all and this doesn't make any sense. Mind you last night I tested on ground and pumped the clutch and it was still hard to get into gear. Noticed how the clutch pick up point was much much higher than yesterday. So I figured I'd go and drove her around some. In the begining it was like driving a new car all over again. Came home after a 15 min right and noticed its now getting trickier again to push into gear again and the clutch pick up is more towards the bottom again.

So what the heck is happening, clutches are warming up and expanding or do I have a pin hole leak. Damn, how fun it was to drive her like, it never drove that easy before.. Doubt lowering the rear did anything to stretch anything?

[Jack B]

Ok this is weird. Since I had her on the lift I put to jacks towards the rear sub frame and lowered her down just enough so the rear tires would be off the lift. Hoped in and tried what was suggested. Guess what, 110 x better as if there was no issues at all and this doesn't make any sense. Mind you last night I tested on ground and pumped the clutch and it was still hard to get into gear. Noticed how the clutch pick up point was much much higher than yesterday. So I figured I'd go and drove her around some. In the begining it was like driving a new car all over again. Came home after a 15 min right and noticed its now getting trickier again to push into gear again and the clutch pick up is more towards the bottom again.

So what the heck is happening, clutches are warming up and expanding or do I have a pin hole leak. Damn, how fun it was to drive her like, it never drove that easy before.. Doubt lowering the rear did anything to stretch anything?

Check your fluid level, also remove the inspection cover to check for a leak

[Jack B]

Jack would he be able to resurface his flywheel if needed or is the viper flywheel one of those non-machinable two piece jobbers?

Due to clearances, no resurfacing. Unless something has changed, the flywheel has a viper tax. I do have an oem clutch and flywheel that could be sold.

[ViperGTS14]

Will jack the rear today and see if the clutch is dragging. Will report back.

[ViperGTS14]

That sounds good. Please let me know

[ViperGTS14]

Fluid level is perfect. Where or what is inspection cover? Are you referring to that small metal cover on the bottom of the trans?

[SRT_BluByU]

Thats the one.. bottom of bellhousing

[Nth Moto]

It sounds like it could very well be a fluid temperature issue. The clutch line runs right over the header/manifold area on the frame rail and if the heat shield is gone or damaged, or if the car has aftermarket headers, it can become an issue. Just a side thought.

[ViperGTS14]

Ok yet another update boys. But the way totally appreciate everyone helping!

Just now I asked my wife to hop in and push the the clutch peddle while I watch the two area to see what is moving (the lower access port cover and the side opened port). Well, it looks as though the clutch is barely moving away from the pressure plate while the sleeve rubber boot thingy that you can see from the side open part of the bell with a mirror looks like its moving a lot more that the clutch. Most likely its the spring tension that is already on it. So everyone is working its just not moving far enough away when pressing the clutch in. Hell all I need is just another .2 of moment. Crazy today was the best driving experience every with the trans / clutch. No clue as to why it was working correctly today and now its not again.

Edit:
I'm surely losing my mind here :-(. Just went for another drive and it was perfectly fine for 20 min, totally warmed up and pushing her a little hard (respectfully of course). Then all of a sudden its the same low pick up point regarding engagement. Brought it back home and pumped the clutch again with the cap off to see if there is any air bubbles, yet no dice. So what I've learn its the trans is fine, the clutch is fine, its something to do with the slave cylinder not repeating or something else related to that area. Any suggestions welcome.

[Jack B]

Ok yet another update boys. But the way totally appreciate everyone helping!

Just now I asked my wife to hop in and push the the clutch peddle while I watch the two area to see what is moving (the lower access port cover and the side opened port). Well, it looks as though the clutch is barely moving away from the pressure plate while the sleeve rubber boot thingy that you can see from the side open part of the bell with a mirror looks like its moving a lot more that the clutch. Most likely its the spring tension that is already on it. So everyone is working its just not moving far enough away when pressing the clutch in. Hell all I need is just another .2 of moment. Crazy today was the best driving experience every with the trans / clutch. No clue as to why it was working correctly today and now its not again.

Edit:
I'm surely losing my mind here :-(. Just went for another drive and it was perfectly fine for 20 min, totally warmed up and pushing her a little hard (respectfully of course). Then all of a sudden its the same low pick up point regarding engagement. Brought it back home and pumped the clutch again with the cap off to see if there is any air bubbles, yet no dice. So what I've learn its the trans is fine, the clutch is fine, its something to do with the slave cylinder not repeating or something else related to that area. Any suggestions welcome.

The plates and the disks do not move very much, that is normal. Maybe you have some moisture in the fluid and once it heats up you get air bubbles in the line. How old is the fluid? Do you still have the insulating sleeve over the clutch line.

[ViperGTS14]

The plates and the disks do not move very much, that is normal. Maybe you have some moisture in the fluid and once it heats up you get air bubbles in the line. How old is the fluid? Do you still have the insulating sleeve over the clutch line.

Thinking similar as well. Assuming the brake/clutch oil is original with 9k miles. Attempted to raise the front of the car with the lift (pretty scary) at about 30 degrees to see if there was any air bubbles would move upward while pumping. Nothing. :-( Need to figure out how to change the fluid, maybe that is it. So frustrating.

[SRT_BluByU]

could be a team in the slave boot.. but I would think it would be seeping a tiny amount of fluid so you would see it on the part itself.

[ViperGTS14]

Lowered trans down and removed the clip and bleed the line going to the slave. After letting it drain the res we added new brake fluid and started pumping. After 100 or so pump it started pumping from the top again. All seems ok for now, drove very well. Hopefully that is all it was. Fingers crossed.

[ViperGTS14]

Somethings up with the brake fluid, smells like antifreeze not sure if that is normal. Have some DOT3 I want to flush through but looking over the lines not sure how to do so. The lower line looks tricky to get to by the trans, not sure if I discount that and let it drain out and or pump to flush out. Any suggestions are welcome.

BTW starter her up today and it felt perfect again. Seems like its surely the fluid at this point, now if i can figure a way to remove it.