Toe Link Tie Rods and ends

[lane_viper]

So wanted to share this with you guys.

I knew I had something going on. My 96 GTS had what seemed a lot of driveline lash on acceleration, breaking, and deceleration and the rear would "unsettle" and shift a little when you let off the gas. It also had some axle popping which I assumed was the axle splines or the universal joints. I noticed I could physically move the rear passenger tire when the rear was jacked up, so I knew either the toe link, or the joint on the shaft was shot. It moved about 1/8th of an inch.

I started looking for Parts, but the prices seemed crazy for what the part is. The cheapest I found new ones was $200 each Mopar Part # 4763159AC.

https://parts.lithiagrantspass.com/o...link-4763159ac

I ordered new front tie rod ends from Rock Auto to test. I got Spicer front tie rod ends, thinking If they didn't work, I would just replace the front ones, as they are 20+ years old anyway.

Guess what? They fit the back rods! This let me to think, the shaft and joints might be the same as well.

I then found and ordered Front tie rod assemblies. Here's what I ordered, but I'm sure any front tie rod assembly will work:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-INNER-TIE...53.m2749.l2649

A rubber boot was needed to cover and protect the joint, and keep the grease in, so I improvised with a bicycle tire inner tube and a couple of zip ties.
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I cut a section of the inner tube. I stretched one end over the wide socket section and left the other end on the shaft. There were grooves in the shaft that was a good place to fit the zip ties.
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Now all thats left is to install them. You will need a 1 5/16 open ended socket to remove the tie rod shaft

I removed the end from the wheel hub, then loosened the socket end. The shaft came out with the tie rod end attached. I then measured the length to make sure the new one goes in the same.

Here is the old one vs the new ones I made.
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Here's what it looks like with the shaft removed. It simply screws off, and you screw the new one on the shaft that bolts to the body.
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Once everything is bolted up:
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Summary:

I bought front tie rod ends on Rock Auto. They range in price, but mine were Spicer and were about $10 each. $20
I bought the Steering tie rod assembly for $50 (link above)
Replacement bicycle inner tube 27" road bike. $10

All in $80 + my time to install.

As posted in previous posts, cheapest I found new ones was $200 each Mopar Part # 4763159AC.

I saved about $320+ on these.

You will prob need an alignment as this is the toe adjustment for the rear, unless you are confident that your measuring got the shaft the exact same length as before.

After test driving it made a world of difference. The Car drives better that it ever has since I bought it last year. I can't believe the difference.

I wanted to share this with you guys to offer an alternative to the $400 price of the toe link shaft, and offer that virtually the same parts that were used on the front steering rack, were used in the rear toe assembly.

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

Cheers.

Lane

[dave6666]

I do admire someone that isn't afraid to work on their own car. As opposed to polishing it all day long and starting (insert part of car and day of week) threads. I don't however admire someone that is too cheap to buy good quality parts, especially ones that if they break they will probably put you in the ditch or wall, depending on what you are next to at that moment they break.

Here's some highlights from that ebay ad:

-> Item location: Taichung City, Taiwan
-> Manufacturer Part Number: does not apply
-> Brand: Aftermarket Products
-> Part Brand: AFTER MARKET
-> Item Description - Those item are high quality AFTERMARKETS PARTS. All item including raw materials are produced by international standard. Alloy steel with Carbon Combine together. Ball

Congrats on saving that money. Or should I use grammar like they do? Congrat items on savings that. Money

[GTS Dean]

I hope you didn't tighten the zip tie on the adjuster rod too much. The rod needs to rotate freely when adjusting the toe.

[Bill W]

Lane,
Thanks for taking the time to post all the how-to pictures on the forum.

[lane_viper]

I do admire someone that isn't afraid to work on their own car. As opposed to polishing it all day long and starting (insert part of car and day of week) threads. I don't however admire someone that is too cheap to buy good quality parts, especially ones that if they break they will probably put you in the ditch or wall, depending on what you are next to at that moment they break.

Here's some highlights from that ebay ad:

-> Item location: Taichung City, Taiwan
-> Manufacturer Part Number: does not apply
-> Brand: Aftermarket Products
-> Part Brand: AFTER MARKET
-> Item Description - Those item are high quality AFTERMARKETS PARTS. All item including raw materials are produced by international standard. Alloy steel with Carbon Combine together. Ball

Congrats on saving that money. Or should I use grammar like they do? Congrat items on savings that. Money

If you don't like the parts I used, fine. Don't use these on your car. The focus on this was mainly that the front Tie rod assemblies are also used for the rear toe link. Use whatever parts you see fit.

[Fatboy 18]

Reference Dave,

I've got a cheap arse LUK ebay clutch kit on my car, guess what, clutch plate has the same part number as the Mopar one and is made by LUK, no viper tax, thanks ebay, nearly 38.000 miles on it now loads of burnouts, wheelspins, I drive my car responsibly

Also Last year I fitted a Brand New Mopar (overstock) water pump for a Gen II Viper, the original impeller on the water pump had melted. Well guess what, 2nd Water pump has also melted!
So I read the smallprint on the mopar website, All parts purchased as is, no guarantee.

Now if I had purchased a pattern water pump from someone like Autozone or Rock Auto, I would have had a guarantee, thanks you get for trying to support a Mopar brand believing you are getting a quality product.

Carry on Dave

Thanks for taking the time to Post up the pics Lane_Viper

[GTS Dean]

I was able to remove and re-use the OE tie rod boots. The only things required are a sturdy bench vise, a good hammer and a 1.5" Sch 40 pipe collar about 2" long. Those boots are on there pretty tight, so it requires several sharp blows to loosen them from the ball sockets. The spring steel retainer rings on my '96 are also very robust. I cleaned the boots up and shot a little bit of silicone spray inside before inserting the new boots into the pipe collar. It takes several more solid hits to seat the new sockets into the boots. They wobble some and it's a bit of a pain to get them square. The last step is reinstalling the spring rings.

[usmcfieldmp]

Awesome stuff. I've got replacement Tie Rod Ends to do soon, but will be checking the play on my inner links to make sure they're still good.