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  1. #1
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    GTS Exhaust Leak

    Sounded like I had an exhaust leak and I found it. I can feel the exhaust coming out. Looks like the gasket blew out. Anyone had this happen? Item needed to replace and how hard?
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  2. #2
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    Looks like aftermarket headers. Will need better pics to tell more. If Belanger headers I experimented with every gasket and sealer known to mankind to get a solution to that and the final outcome was the Cometic 3-hole MLS gasket. Been running for years and no more issues.

    I think this is them. I bought em from Dan Lesser but you get the idea.

    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...907hts/5643251

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    Looks like aftermarket headers. Will need better pics to tell more. If Belanger headers I experimented with every gasket and sealer known to mankind to get a solution to that and the final outcome was the Cometic 3-hole MLS gasket. Been running for years and no more issues.

    I think this is them. I bought em from Dan Lesser but you get the idea.

    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...907hts/5643251
    Thanks Dave! Yes these are Belanger headers, actually it’s a full Belanger system. Recommend trying these Cometic or contacting Belanger?

  4. #4
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    I [ ] do [x] do not recommend calling Lou and having him spend 2-1/2 hours explaining to you why the headers are designed the way they are and why if you don't follow his assembly procedure to the most minute detail they will leak. You're already out of his compliance because you're supposed to just use RTV there. That looks like a solid aluminum gasket. You I tried those too. Yes with similar results.

  5. #5
    In my personal experiences, Cometic gaskets are absolutely the best for high performance applications. Our local machine shop specializes in supercharged motors and only uses Cometic.
    Last edited by 1BADV10; 05-17-2019 at 06:40 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    I [ ] do [x] do not recommend calling Lou and having him spend 2-1/2 hours explaining to you why the headers are designed the way they are and why if you don't follow his assembly procedure to the most minute detail they will leak. You're already out of his compliance because you're supposed to just use RTV there. That looks like a solid aluminum gasket. You I tried those too. Yes with similar results.
    Thanks again Dave, I am sorry for my ignorance, but I am not sure who Lou is, I am assuming someone at Belanger.....I can't imagine using RVT for that spot..... If you say those Cometic gaskets are the way to go, and have worked for you, I trust you. Is that link for the "Exact" ones I would need to purchase, size, etc.
    Thank you again

    Quote Originally Posted by 1BADV10 View Post
    In my personal experiences, Cometic gaskets are absolutely the best for high performance applications. Are local machine shop specializes in supercharged motors and only uses Cometic.
    Thanks for the feedback, great to know!!

    If you have replaced yours, how hard was it/how long was the process?

    Thanks!

  7. #7
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    Lou... is Lou Belanger.

    Once you get the exhaust side cover off and the heat shield above it off and the collector joint apart take a few measurements and compare them to the gasket specs. I think that gasket I linked to is correct. I bought them from Viper Specialty Performance and what I have in my notes is: 3" 3-Bolt MLS Exhaust Turnout Gasket 3.875 Bolt Circle. Which appears to match what I linked to.

    On the smaller flanges the red hi-temp RTV still works good. It's just that bigger one that is a pain.

    Another thing to check is the gasket of the header to the head. Belanger supplies the headers with a grey fiber gasket which will get hard and brittle and leak. Should be easy to spot. The factory MLS gasket is much better and looks like shiny metal. If you do find the Belanger gasket put the Gen 3 MLS gaskets in as they are 4 layers instead of 2. They have to be cut but I did them on my car it's easy.

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  8. #8
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    Layer difference.

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    Lou... is Lou Belanger.

    Once you get the exhaust side cover off and the heat shield above it off and the collector joint apart take a few measurements and compare them to the gasket specs. I think that gasket I linked to is correct. I bought them from Viper Specialty Performance and what I have in my notes is: 3" 3-Bolt MLS Exhaust Turnout Gasket 3.875 Bolt Circle. Which appears to match what I linked to.

    On the smaller flanges the red hi-temp RTV still works good. It's just that bigger one that is a pain.

    Another thing to check is the gasket of the header to the head. Belanger supplies the headers with a grey fiber gasket which will get hard and brittle and leak. Should be easy to spot. The factory MLS gasket is much better and looks like shiny metal. If you do find the Belanger gasket put the Gen 3 MLS gaskets in as they are 4 layers instead of 2. They have to be cut but I did them on my car it's easy.
    Thanks Dave, Yes that is what you provided in the link. "Collector Gasket; 3-Bolt; 3.0 Inch In Diameter; 3.875 Inch Bolt Circle; SSC Material; Cometic Gasket Includes Exhaust Gaskets are designed to be used with manifolds or headers. Offered in a range of materials to make sure you are covered with any cylinder head and manifold/header combination. All exhaust gaskets are designed to be used without the use of messy sealants."

    Surprised more Viper guys haven't chimed in with this issue.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperRyan View Post
    Surprised more Viper guys haven't chimed in with this issue.
    That's because only a few Viper owners are actually car guys. Very few. The rest spend their time aimlessly pulling off any factory part they can find that has an aftermarket replacement all the while blurting the word upgrade like the factory engineers were all stupid, or posting on fb about how Viper values went up 1% last year based on a single car auction bought by some drunk guy that didn't even know what a Viper was before last Tuesday.

    Sorry. I guess I could have just summarized with I'm a car guy.

    Good luck with your repairs.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    That's because only a few Viper owners are actually car guys. Very few. The rest spend their time aimlessly pulling off any factory part they can find that has an aftermarket replacement all the while blurting the word upgrade like the factory engineers were all stupid, or posting on fb about how Viper values went up 1% last year based on a single car auction bought by some drunk guy that didn't even know what a Viper was before last Tuesday.

    Sorry. I guess I could have just summarized with I'm a car guy.

    Good luck with your repairs.
    How do you really feel hahaha.

    Thanks for your help Dave, really appreciated! I plan to grab those gaskets and get to work. Any other tips you can provide since you've done this already?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    That's because only a few Viper owners are actually car guys. Very few. The rest spend their time aimlessly pulling off any factory part they can find that has an aftermarket replacement all the while blurting the word upgrade like the factory engineers were all stupid, or posting on fb about how Viper values went up 1% last year based on a single car auction bought by some drunk guy that didn't even know what a Viper was before last Tuesday.

    Sorry. I guess I could have just summarized with I'm a car guy.

    Good luck with your repairs.
    You've earned a pass Dave with all this solid knowledge! Even your criticism has become "mindful" and articulate! I agree wholeheartedly with the "factory engineers" comment.

    Who is this really?
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave6666 View Post
    That's because only a few Viper owners are actually car guys. Very few. The rest spend their time aimlessly pulling off any factory part they can find that has an aftermarket replacement all the while blurting the word upgrade like the factory engineers were all stupid, or posting on fb about how Viper values went up 1% last year based on a single car auction bought by some drunk guy that didn't even know what a Viper was before last Tuesday.

    Sorry. I guess I could have just summarized with I'm a car guy.
    +1. Glad you got it off my chest.

    The factory products have real warranties and a lot of R&D testing done by them or their suppliers while many of the aftermarket products can be way too theoretical with useless to no warranties.
    Last edited by AviP; 05-14-2019 at 10:07 AM.

  14. #14
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    Check the flange for warpage. I have had to fix many sets of Bellangers with warped flanges. Hence the reason for red RTV high temp.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SNKEBIT View Post
    Check the flange for warpage. I have had to fix many sets of Bellangers with warped flanges. Hence the reason for red RTV high temp.
    I plan to get under the car here this weekend or next and do this. I am going to buy the gaskets, but maybe should also grab some RVT? What brand/type you recommend?

  16. #16
    Thoughts on the RTV for the slip fit connections? That overkill or worth it?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperRyan View Post
    What brand/type you recommend?
    I was told by Lou Belanger to use something that stated O2 Sensor Safe. This is the newest version of what I used...

    Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

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    OEM specified. For high operating temperatures common in 4-cylinder, turbocharged or high-performance engines. The most advanced, high temp RTV silicone gasket available. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Superior adhesion. Three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones; eight times more flexible than cut gaskets. Temperature range -65°F to 700°F (-54°C to 371°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by LifeIsGood View Post
    I was told by Lou Belanger to use something that stated O2 Sensor Safe. This is the newest version of what I used...

    Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

    81878.png
    Haven't used this stuff before, never needed to. Would it make sense to buy the new Cometic Gaskets, put a thin coat of this stuff on each side and then install into exhaust? Or not bother since these new gaskets shouldn't have any issues....

    Appreciate all the great input on here!

  19. #19
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    I didn't use this on the headers. I used it between the primary tubes and the collectors and between the collectors and the turn-outs.

  20. #20
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    This is why, a properly installed quality v-band is the only way to go. Ease of disassembly and no leaks. Factory header connection to down pipe is.......... you guessed it a v-band. As an FYI, there are plenty of Chineseium stainless v-bands being sold, that warp like crazy when welded and leak as well.
    https://burnsstainless.com/collectio...12503162126435
    This style v-band is superior to the machined flanges for most exhaust set ups, and flat out never leak if installed by a skilled welder.

  21. #21
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    So I couldn't get it off at home, no lift and not enough clearance. I took it to my friends shop to get it in the air. With this system, there was an aluminum spacer/gasket along with the normal gasket. You can see the one aluminum gasket/spacer got fried. So I bought a new set of these and the cometic gaskets as well. Went together perfect and NO MORE noise, well from that area at least

    The Viper was in pretty good company. Next to a real F40 LM converstion, 1 of only 2 in the world. My friend bought this and took delivery a couple weeks ago.
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