Going faster

[Destructo]

In response to JonB's post in this thread: https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ith-track-days

Lots of good info in here. Allow me to simplify with 3 'rules of thumb' that can be taken as Commandments:


FIRST: Do things to Make it TURN BETTER.

SECOND: Do things to Make it STOP BETTER. [96 brakes S.U.C.K. vs G3-4-5]

THIRD: Then add POWER.

I pose the question of what to do about "turning better" for a car that does autocross and track days. Don't want to go full race car mode as it is also street driven.

I assume:
1 Tires
2 Poly bushings?
3-? ??

Thanks

[J-rho]

In response to JonB's post in this thread: https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ith-track-days



I pose the question of what to do about "turning better" for a car that does autocross and track days. Don't want to go full race car mode as it is also street driven.

I assume:
1 Tires
2 Poly bushings?
3-? ??

Thanks

It kinda depends on your starting point. In a Gen 1 or 2 you might want to do brakes before doing the stuff to make it turn better.

Something like a Gen 4 or 5 ACR though, is already going to stop and turn pretty well.

Any Viper you should get checked for a good performance alignment. 2 or degrees more negative camber in front will help a lot and won't wear out on the inside as long as toe is kept close to zero.

Tires are something you're just going to go through the more you run the car hard. Best case is a dedicated set of wheels/tires for performance use. If not possible, you'll have to choose how compromised you want things to be. There are people who run Hoosier A7 tires on the street (fastest/stickiest but also shortest-lived DOT-legal tire you can buy), but they would be horrific in rain. Lately I've been running Michelin Pilot Sport 4s, and they are wearing like iron on the track, with excellent water evacuation for use in the wet - but they are also several seconds/lap slower than a Hoosier. In between these ends of the spectrum lie a variety of tires that tend to offer increasing performance for decreasing streetability. The Michelin Pilot Sport Cup is more in the middle there.

Bushings I wouldn't do unless the OE ones are worn out.

I think the magic #3 is practice/seat time. You'll want to keep the car in good mechanical condition throughout so stay on top of fluids and brake pads (for autocross OE is fine, need to upgrade for track). Do a few different types of events (autocross, track, etc.), get a feel for what you like, as further modification should be suited to that style of event.

I've run Gen 3 & 4s competitively in SCCA National-level autocross for over 10 years. The cars are competitive in stock-class autocross with Hoosiers on OE-sized wheels and a front swaybar. Shocks help a lot but aren't mandatory.

[Arizona Vipers]

In response to JonB's post in this thread: https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ith-track-days



I pose the question of what to do about "turning better" for a car that does autocross and track days. Don't want to go full race car mode as it is also street driven.

I assume:
1 Tires
2 Poly bushings?
3-? ??

Thanks

What year is your Viper?

[Destructo]

I probably should have given a little more information. Car is a 2000 GTS. Stock suspension & brakes (Hawk HPS pads). In the market for a new set of street tires and a set of track tires. I already have dedicated autocross tires. I've been tracking on Pirelli PZero Rossos and they have held up well, but they are a few years old now and due for replacement. I know I'm not driving at the limit of the car but am still looking at what I will need to do to improve the car as I get better.

Thanks