Fellow member got a quote for a new clutch on his 2006 Coupe.
$2200 .... !!!???
Seems way high to me.
What do you guys think?
Fellow member got a quote for a new clutch on his 2006 Coupe.
$2200 .... !!!???
Seems way high to me.
What do you guys think?
Just out of curiousity did he check his clutch fluid to see if it was low, black as can be, or if he has changed it in a long time? We often found that most Vipers supposedly needing clutches ( from customer comments that the clutch was shot) actually only needed a clutch flush and new fluid put in ( we used Motul 600 ) . The headers just get too hot and the fluid reacts and often it is just something few ever think to check. He might find a flush and new fluid could cure his ills? Just a thought........
What kind of clutch? Keep in mind there are a handful of different options out there depending on the power ratings and brand. Dual clutch, triple clutch, etc. Does that price include a new FW, or resurfacing the original? Does it include new slave/TOB? Does it include install costs?
If that includes everything being replaced and labor then I'd say it sounds about right...
If that's just the clutch itself... that's highway robbery! I got a new McCleod RXT HD (1200HP) which bolts to existing FW, for something like $1350 delivered.
Seriously ............keep in mind what I posted, as we seldom ever , in close to 25 years , had to replace many Viper clutches.
This is an estimate for a standard clutch replacement.
Car is bone stock and will stay that way.
Looked on RockAuto, clutches run $200-$300.
Will definitely followup on Bill's suggestion!
My clutch is nice and firm on normal driving but on heavy traffic with lots of clutching it start "sagging" (with a lack of word for describing it) and I've had to pump it up in order for it to function like normal again. As said, only in heavy traffic.
I've now replaced the fluid with Motul 600,havent yet tried it in traffic as winter litteraly just ended here but I'm farely positive this is the solution to my problem and not the clutch and/or throw out bearing.
I'm sorry I can't tell you if it's better or not though... As I would love to know it myself.
The clutch line passes much closer to the exhaust than brake lines. In my Gen 3 I found the clutch line resting on the exhaust pipe and the thermal wrapping partially burned through. Wrapping and tieing it to the side as much as possible stopped the fluid boiling issue (also a fluid change).
Took to another shop ... very good tuner shop.
Owner has had Vipers.
They could not find anything wrong with the clutch.
So it is on to Motul 600 and checking the routing of the clutch line.
Car only has 14K miles.
Great news George and the reason we at Woodhouse always recommend checking the fluid and the routing of the line. Glad you mentioned that , as it was a common practice for us , for many years , to offer this to customers right at delivery. Rerouting the line , definitely was a help to many of those Trackraticus folks , as well as those who live in the hotter climes of America the beautiful!
Bill P, once again you answer a question in a way that helps the whole Viper community. Thank you!! I'll run out between work calls today and have a look at my clutch line routing. I've had no issues, but not opposed to optimizing things when and where I can. Cheers, Mike M
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