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  1. #1

    Little clutch issue help

    Got a 02 gts and it’s been going on a few years now trying to chase this issue. Originally took it in for a rear crank seal leaking and replaced everything, clutch slave and resurfaces flywheel. when I got it back pedal was soft. So figured took to much of fly wheel and ended up ordering a fidnaza and put it in and same thing soft pedal again. Took out and replaced slave and still soft.. 4 years later and a different shop and still chasing this soft pedal issue, replaced master cylinder from roe racing and on number 8 slave cylinder and still can’t get a hard pedal at all, we used a mutt vac we bleed them slave cylinders every way possible everyone has mentioned.. I know it’s a simple system.. but I’m at a stand still.. just getting tired of pulling that tranny out.... what would you guys try next. If I unplug the line to the slave cylinder the pedal gets hard. Plug it back in and soft again. Think my master is wore out from pressing it and out a million times??? Thanks guys!

  2. #2
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    I would expect the clutch to get hard when dead blocked like with the line disconnected. Regarding soft do you define that as non functional, or just not hard? Like with the line disconnected not hard.

  3. #3
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    Curious like Dave here. Is it soft like it doesn’t fully disengage or operates in a range you don’t like? To answer your question I would say f it and go back to all stock parts as long as you’re not pushing crazy horse power. It’s got to be something in the clearance between the throw out and your flex plate... (assuming it’s 100 air free and no seals are leaking in master cylinder or throw out piston)

    Side questions and probably a dumb one. Are the pedals adjustable on the gen2? Is it possible that the pedals got adjusted out of your normal foot throw? I have a G4 and I flip when my pedals get moved from my position. Not saying it has anything to do with your issue but man after 4 years we got to give you some things to think about

  4. #4
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    Because the clutch is Hydraulic the pedal will always feel soft compared to a car with rod linkages.

    Question, Have you tried the clutch pedal in other owners Vipers to see if it feels the same as yours?

    Even if you were to fit a competition clutch the Hydraulic master cylinder movement will still be the same.

    Does your clutch pedal return fully and stay there? Where is the clutch engaging when you start lifting off the pedal?

  5. #5
    VOA Member 99RT10's Avatar
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    So you replaced 8 Slaves for being normal.....................................


    Got it.
    09 ACR With all the goodies
    99 ACR TT 99 red RT/10 Roe S/C
    97 B/W RT/10 TT 94 RT/10 TT

  6. #6
    No a few slaves were leaking and soft as hell not hard at all never like it was when I first bought the car. I have got in others and there’s are really hard to push in compared to mine! No it stays soft then the longer you drive in the city and heat and will get worse and worse.. pedal adjustment Dosent change a thing.. only thing I changed was went with a fidnaza fly wheel instead of the stock.. we bleed these slave cylinders every way in the book and not in the book. From a mity vac to a two person set up pump hold down crack bleeder screw and close and after every time we bleed every slave cylinder we put in this car we allways get a no pedal at all then pump about 10 pumps and it’s starts to slightly get hard.. every shop I talked to said it’s got a be slave cylinder.

  7. #7
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    What clutch are you using? The Luk OEM or something else? Does your clutch fluid line from the master cylinder have the heat shielding on it? What fluid are you using? DOT 3? DOT 4? Something else? Should be DOT 4 which has a slightly higher boiling point than DOT 3.

  8. #8
    Using a new luk clutch and master does have the heat sleeve on the line down towards the slave . Also using dot 4 for a higher boiling point..

  9. #9
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    Well then try the Bad Boys Garage billet slave then. You would have paid for it by here...

    [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8]

  10. #10
    Ya I guess so try that and see what happens I gues!!

  11. #11
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    Last edited by Fatboy 18; 03-31-2019 at 12:01 PM.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Fatboy 18 View Post
    Thanks guess I’ll troy a bbg one and see what happens!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by happy View Post
    Thanks guess I’ll troy a bbg one and see what happens!
    Thing is if everything's right, you should not have to? I'm running a Fidanza Flywheel, Ebay LUK stock clutch and Slave cylinder,

    And I drive my car hard doing sprint demonstrations and burnouts. I use Motul 600 brake fluid in the clutch with no issues.

    Sorry to hear you are having issues

    I know it may be a dumb question but how exactly are you bleeding the system? How far are you opening the bleed valve on the slave cylinder? It normally requires no more than a 1/4 turn to allow fluid to drain and must be tightened back up with the clutch pedal fully depressed, and of course making sure the reservoir is still completely full. 9 times out of 10 a two person job.

    Sorry to have to type that up but this is the internet and there are novices out there

  14. #14
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    I just re-read your previous thread on this issue and some very experienced folks responding. I can now understand why you have tried quite a few slave cylinders. Is there anything in the clutch system that is still installed that was installed just before this problem started happening? From the other thread, the transmission expert was talking about issues with the clutch slave possibly overextending. Could that be a pressure plate related problem? However, you mentioned spec clutch in the other thread, and luk in this one; but, I can't tell if you are just talking about the clutch disk or also the pressure plate/clutch cover when you mention two different clutches

  15. #15
    No we’re bleeding it properly pump pedal a bunch of times crack bleeder screw enough for fluid to come out n tighten quickly with pedal down. We have used mity vac on bleeder screw as well no difference. Ya it has a fidnaza fly wheel and Luk stock clutch not very old! Master cylinder is from roe racing and using a Luk slave cylinder. I tried molar ones and no difference. It’s a soft pedal clutch engages but on hot days in the traffic pedal gets softer and to the point it’s some times hard to get in first gear. I used dot 4 fluid. It feels like the Slavs isn’t close enough to the pressure plate.. but it’s two bolts and it’s bolted on where it should be.. there is no leaks in the system unless when I had a slave clyinder go bad. But as of now no leaks and fluid dose not lower.. like I said just don’t know what to try next..

  16. #16
    Also every time we bleed this slave cylinder with all 8 after you pump it about 10-15 times get a half hard pedal hold down and crack bleeder screw and then tightened let up on pedal and it literally goes right to floor again it’s never hard after we bleed it.. is that the same for the rest?? We have to pump it like another 10 times or more before it starts to get half hard at all. Bleed it n same right to the floor again!

  17. #17
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    Now that is normal when using two man pump-the-pedal bleeding.

  18. #18
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    I vacuum bleed everything. Brakes, clutches. Never had bad results. Done first time every time in 5 minutes.

    Maybe you're using the wrong beer?

  19. #19
    jesus i must be ...only thing my mechanic and i talked tonight what are the odds the fidnaza is a hair thinner then the stock flywheel, think the slave might be over extending and that's why the soft pedal might be happening??

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by happy View Post
    jesus i must be ...only thing my mechanic and i talked tonight what are the odds the fidnaza is a hair thinner then the stock flywheel, think the slave might be over extending and that's why the soft pedal might be happening??
    Well If you do those measurements in the earlier video you should know for sure, and if that is the case you can add a shim or two behind the slave cylinder.

  21. #21
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    A mismatched master/slave cylinder combo (too small master cylinder piston diameter) can cause an easy to press pedal and not enough slave cylinder movement to fully disengage the clutch.

    But since you replaced all those multiple times, maybe it's a bad pressure plate?

  22. #22
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    Does the car shift right?

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    What throwout bearing are you using?

  24. #24
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    Perhaps of no help....but I bought a 2003 Cobra new. It had a hard clutch...like my old Road Runner's. I assumed it was normal.

    When the throw-out bearing started to go, I figured I'd replace it all...quadrant, clutch, show-out...you get the idea. A friends shop did the job and saw something strange. From new...I hope I explain this correctly...the fingers on the throw-out bearing weren't engaged correctly and they were pushing the throw-out bearing on an angle. When it all was fixed, it had what I thought was a soft pedal. Turns out...it;'s how it should have been

  25. #25
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    Where are you as might be time to take to a super solid Viper Tech . Asking , because , unfortunately, Viper Techs are not in great abundance.
    Last edited by Bill Pemberton; 04-02-2019 at 11:48 AM.


 
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