Rear lower ball joint removal question

[AviP]

I'm replacing the ball joints on my 97 GTS and I'm feeling challenged with the rear lower ball joint. The upper is screwed in and came out fairly easy with a special 2-9/64" socket and 3/4" drive breaker bar. The lower is pressed into the knuckle (NOT the lower control arm) and I'm unsure of what tool to use to remove it. I could try to hammer it out but I'd rather press it out with the right tool. Also, what is that ring around the lip of the ball joint? Is it a retaining ring/circlip?

Left Rear Knuckle with lower ball joint
IMG_20190118_113440.jpg

Thanks,
-Avi

[RyanLS.GEN2]

I have used a "4x4 c-frame press" harbor freight tools or autozone rental, but a stand up shop press works the best

[Desert Venom Racer]

Here's what I use. I believe i purchased at Autozone many years ago. Fairly easy to find at any auto parts store.
ball joint press.jpg

[AviP]

I have a C-frame press but the receiving cup size is not right. I also have a HF 12-ton press but can't seem to get the angle needed to get the job done. Is there a trick to getting it right?

And Desert Venom Racer, I have that tool pictured. It just does not have the length to get the job done.

[GTS Dean]

That ring is quite likely a galvanized steel shim. It is there to both reduce galvanic corrosion between the steel ball joint and the aluminum knuckle, and to protect the knuckle from scarring while servicing the ball joint.

[AviP]

That ring is quite likely a galvanized steel shim. It is there to both reduce galvanic corrosion between the steel ball joint and the aluminum knuckle, and to protect the knuckle from scarring while servicing the ball joint.

Interesting. I'll definitely reuse it with the Howe ball joints.

[AviP]

So I got the right size adapter for the ball joint and pressed it out on the 12-ton press. Had to put the lower control arm back on just to prevent the stud from bending under pressure.

Now to entertain myself with the next part of the puzzle: pressing the Howe ball joint back in. I have a feeling that is going to a shop.

[Fatboy 18]

Serious question, why are you swapping out the Ball joints, are your original ones toast?

[AviP]

I'm the original owner, the car is 22 years old, bone stock with only about 35K on the odometer. The boots are all messed up with half of all the boots all over the car looking damaged. I'm including all joints in that: stabilizer, tie-rod in additional to the ball joints. I decided to work on the control arm bushings which were cracked and worn. But it's a can of worms and given that so many parts are old and out of production, I felt that it's time to change it for the next 20 years or so. The car is a keeper and if it survives the next 10 years or so, my currently 17-year old son will inherit it.

Specifically on the 2 ball joints I've removed so far, both seemed well greased but were binding and sticking. Not sure if the grease is old and ineffective or the joint is actually bad. Compared to the new Howe ball joint which can be moved with one finger, the old ones require a strong fist and moves in a jerky fashion. If someone can enlighten me on how a new Mopar ball joint should feel, that would be great.

Additionally, I've never babied my car and have driven it in the rain frequently and cleaned it infrequently. The knuckle pictured above looks clean now but it was completely black on the car. I cleaned it with kerosene. There was a lot of dirt embedded in the black stuff and I'm not sure how much got into the joints.

So far I've been working on the rear when I've got time. Will do the U-joints as well. They look rusty but not damaged or anything. Once again, just preventive care. When I finish the rear end, I'll work my way to the front where I'm pretty sure it's only worse because I do have binding and issues with steering. I know that's not really ball joints but why not replace it if it's all open anyway.

[GTS Dean]

My car had 36k on it when I popped all the wishbones and ball joints loose for service. I pulled the boots, wiped the ball joints clean and flushed fresh grease through them, which smoothed them up quite a bit. I then installed brand new OEM boots and pumped in more fresh grease. New OEM-style replacement joints will be stiff and jerky, but should smooth out in a few K miles.

Racing ball joints are smoother to start with for suspension performance, and adjustable to maintain consistency.

[Fatboy 18]

Thanks for the replies AviP and GTS Dean

[AviP]

Thanks GTS Dean. Good to know.