O2 Sensor "Not Ready"

[MM_RSI650]

Hey guys! I purchase a 1996 RT/10 back in August and noticed that the battery was having an hard time cranking over the engine when I got the car.

So I immediately took the old battery out and put in a new one with the correct cranking amps. I then went to the emissions place and they said my computer says that my O2 sensor is "Not Ready". Dang...I wiped out the memory of the tests on the PCM and didn't even think of it.

Well I have been driving it and got all of the tests to "Complete", including the Cats, but I cant get the dang O2 sensors to show Complete and they said that I am allowed up to 2 "Not Ready", but the O2 has to be Complete.

Well, my temp tags are up in a couple weeks and I am not sure what to do.

Any Advice?

I am in Littleton, CO if anyone has a shop nearby I would certainly love to have them help me out!

Thanks!

[Lost me beer]

Worse case you can buy another temp tag until you figure it all out.
Sorry I don't have any better ideas for you. GL.
Troy

[Coloviper]

I had three incomplete IMs and still could not get the cats nor something else to set. Even after driving it the damn full cycles. You have to take it to the Colorado boulevard emissions station but walk across the parking lot to the specialty shop just south of testing station and talk with them. They will bypass the plug in and run it on the rollers for test. If clean, they will pass it. If not, you have to fix it. If check engine is on, you will have to fix that. That is what my 96 RT/10 has to do. Dreading the next and every damn emissions test here in this state over past 20 years.

Anyway, if you need any work done go to Elite Performance and Tuning off of Sante Fe and ask for Eddie. He has worked on a few Vipers mine included. Sounds like you may have to replace cats and O2s. I replaced all O2s but suspect my cats need replacing and some emissions tubing up front. Suspect maybe a crack in one of the lines.

The O2 set requires 3-5 cold starts on the first key turn on overnight cold start. If you have the screwed PRV issue, you have to cycle the key to build pressure so it screws that whole test up. That was affecting mine.

Wish Trump would come and wipe out the emissions nazis in this state because common sense has left the building. Their decision to remove the antique tags from 25 years and older vehicles and just limit that has pre-81 really tells you it is a money grab period. Ah....don't get me started.

[dave6666]

There may be many full drive cycles required to get the monitors to trip. As mentioned above cold starts are key. If you get bored here is what a drive cycle is. The long version.

https://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/...html#re.v/287/

[MM_RSI650]

Hey guys,
Thanks for the great information. I will try going through that info that you posted Dave and see if it helps me get those turned on. If I cant than I will go over to Elite Performance, as ColoViper had suggested and see if they can find the issue. Will keep the thread posted of the progress.

Thanks!

[dave6666]

Some of the key points that I got from that explanation are:

* Make sure you do a cold start. Like a in the morning cold start.

* Do not let the car sit and idle for 10 minutes warming up. Lots of garage queens probably do that. May not apply to you. Start it up and go.

* Go out and drive the car around normally. Like you would the family minivan while taking a trip in to town.

* Do it a few times if it does not trip after the first drive.

You have to think that it's unlikely Chrysler invented a special set of requirements for the Viper and emissions. Quite likely copy/paste from their general product line. So drive it like the family car a few times.

[Coloviper]

Dave I tried both ways! Normal driving and that goofy drive cycle. The drive cycle is hard to do in those specific parameters out here. State Emissions knows that out here which is why they will put it on the rollers to physically test what comes out the pipe on the running dyno test. It just sucks!

[MM_RSI650]

Hey guys,
Just a quick update.
I found the drive cycle for Chrysler, http://www.obd2.com/support/reprog/d..._procedure.pdf
That seemed to be the ticket for all of the tests but instead of going ready I got a Check Engine light.

Code: P1294 Unable to reach target Idle

The car has a split second fuel controller and came from California so I probably just need to get it retuned for Colorado.

I cleared the check engine light and took it over to the emissions place near me. They pointed at the wall and told me that they could not drive test it.

I mentioned that the one up on Colorado Blvd. would drive it and the guy agreed to test it.

Unfortunately it failed all of the tests by a few thousandths each. So now I think I am just going to have to take it to a tuner to tune it for Altitude.

Thanks for all the help. I will post back the results.

[steve911]

Why not take off the after market stuff and return it to stock?

[MM_RSI650]

That is impossible at this point. The RSI 650 engine upgrade that was done was all engine internals. I would need a new stock motor.

It only missed the emissions by a few tenths on each category so I am assuming it can be fixed with the Split Second fuel controller.

[Coloviper]

Well, that RSI mod is a totally different beast. Mine is stock, so other than clearing the IMs, it runs way clean in their ranges. Hate to say it, but you are probably regulated to registering it to a self created business in Montana or buying land in the mountains were they do not test. I doubt it will ever pass that test. Sold my 06' Coupe I bought new and added Bellanger exhaust system which fail, failed, failed. Been here and done that in this part of Colorado over 22 years now. Screw this state and their BS EPA program. It has been a problem for all the time I have been here. Wish I had better news for you on that front. BUT, getting the car to Eddie, he will tune it for Altitude and get it running awesome. That is a guarantee. Passing emissions is a whole other beast.

[Dono]

That is impossible at this point. The RSI 650 engine upgrade that was done was all engine internals. I would need a new stock motor.

It only missed the emissions by a few tenths on each category so I am assuming it can be fixed with the Split Second fuel controller.

Always do your emissions test with the lowest octane fuel you can buy at the pumps. Higher octane fuel will leave un-burt fuel to lube or keep the cylinder from ending up dry.

If you just missed with a high octane fuel in the car you will pass no problem with low octane.

One more point is the O2 only takes control of the computer at light cruse and makes a closed loop. If during the test it will not go into closed loop because it is a manual car its is the operators error testing it.


Just my thoughts that might help.
Cheers Don.

[MM_RSI650]

Update:
I changed the oil, changed the TPS and changed my fuel map +5%. Took another test and looks like everything went up. So now I am going to change the fuel map -5% from the original and test again.

I called Elite performance to see if they could help me out with my Code: P1294 Unable to reach target Idle but they said that they didn't have the software to read the stock ECU. He referred me over to CAP Chapman Auto Performance in Arvada, CO.

Gave them a call and he said he had to talk to his tuner to see if they can help. Haven't heard back yet.

Really, if I can get this idle under control I think the O2 sensors will tell the OBDII that it is in "Ready" state. Then I won't have to worry about how close to emissions I am.

I will keep you all posted on this epic emissions battle in Colorado!

[MM_RSI650]

I am back! Took the winter off because I had the valve covers and intake powder coated. Got everything back together with new gaskets and idle was still high.

Finally, figured out how to change it though.

I have Accufab TBs and they say that you should not change the butterfly opening at all as it will mess up the TB.

Well, on this car it is necessary to modify the set screw.

I verified that there were no vacuum leaks and that the IAC was closed during idle operations. The only other thing to do is close the butterfly's to reduce the air coming in.

Here is what I ended up doing.

Adjust idle
1. Cap the IAC
2. Remove Drivers TB and adjust screw. You can use the TPS for precise measurement. I ended up going from .97 -> .83 volts
3. Test the change by checking the idle. I was at 1300 and it had gone down to 950.
4. Remove the Passenger TB and adjust screw.
5. Test the change by check in the idle. Was at 950 and now at 750.
6. Uncap IAC

Since I have a Split Second fuel controller I can modify the fuel maps that work off of the map sensor.
1. Start OBD tool and look at fuel trims. Was way too rich.
2. Adjust fuel map by -5% and check trims.
3. Repeat until trims are near 0.

I noticed my Bank 2 is slightly more rich than Bank 1 so I will have to adjust the screw a bit more on that side.

But overall I am very happy with the adjustment and I just wanted to post back letting everyone know.

Thanks for all of the input.

[HOLYFIELD619]

Colorado does have a low once you have spent over $750. Basically a emissions waiver , i used it once when i first moved here , but i also took the car to a specialty testing center in aurora.
https://www.colorado.gov/pacific/dmv/emissions-waiver