clutch issues again

[happy]

have a 02 gts with a new clutch and iam on number 4 slave cylinder.... first few were leaking this one is not its a mopar one and i also put in a new master cylinder kit from roe racing. my issue is i got a mityvac and tried getting the air of through the master cylinder, i can get some air off it pump up pedal a few times and repeat and i can get a some what hard pedal then i go for a drive and it gets soft again.. is this number 5 slave cylinder no good too...

[DonatoEng]

What clutch are you using ?
Do you still have the heat sleeve on the clutch line ?























/

[dave6666]

Bleed it properly.

[josh]

Just bought a 99 RT/10 ... Dealer put a new OEM clutch in it. Is there anything I should be looking for to make sure it's installed and working correctly? I'm not very mechanically inclined...

[dave6666]

Just bought a 99 RT/10 ... Dealer put a new OEM clutch in it. Is there anything I should be looking for to make sure it's installed and working correctly? I'm not very mechanically inclined...

Knowing that most dealers are idiots when it comes to working on the older gen Vipers, you can keep your concerns to the simple things like did they put all the bolts back in etc. Or crack your hood because most people have no idea what the proper way is to close the hood on a Gen 1/2 car. The slave cyl leaking? Tch, no worries.

[happy]

yes still has the heat sleeve on the clutch line.. and spec clutch. also will try bleed it through the bleeder screw and see how that goes. not having much luck with these damn slave cylinders... is there anyway air could be getting in and fluid not getting out???

[Fatboy 18]

I had to bleed a new master and slave via the bleeder screw at the transmission case, two person job with one person checking fluid level at the reservoir.
its a PIA and a small amount of fluid will leak into the bellhousing.

[DonatoEng]

Is the slave failure mode typically leakage at the seal or a hole rubbed through the ID ?
It's possible that the clutch finger height is too low and the slave is over traveling. I have seen this with several of the aftermarket clutches before.
Also, I have had several come in after a clutch change with low engagement or soft and they got air in the system trying to connect the clutch line. Bleeding at the slave is the best way to get all of the air out of the system.

[bluesrt]

also if you cut the flywheel, it may be out of spec and cause pedal problems

[happy]

i have a fidnaza fly wheel. but we tried and bleed it every wich way possible we bleed master cylinder and the slave cylinder.. and i still have a soft pedal... what next number 5 slave cylinder?? getting real sick of this..

[happy]

also when we pump the pedal say 25-30 times and i hold down on the pedal and a buddy cracks bleed screw and tightnes back up the pedal is back to soft as can be again is that normal bleeding, once you let up on the pedal and push it to the floor again, there like no pedal at all extremely soft. then one you pump it a bunch again it will slowly get a little firmer but not no wheres close to factory stiffness,

[Fatman2006]

Have you tried bleeding the clutch with the car level, or at different angles. Air bubbles could be trapped at high points in the clutch system and soon as you put the car down to drive it, the bubbles compress and cause a soft pedal. Either way, I'd suggest bleeding the system, with the front up, level and with the rear up. Good luck hope it helps.

[Fatboy 18]

Not wanting to tell you how to suck eggs but do you and your buddy actually know how to bleed a clutch?

So 1 person needs to be checking the clutch reservoir (making sure it stays full).
Another person needs to sit in the car and slowly depress the clutch pedal.
Another person needs to crank open the bleeder valve on the side of the clutch.
You then slowly push your foot down on the clutch pedal and hold it down until the bleeder valve is cranked shut. Then lift the pedal and check fluid in reservoir, Keep repeating the process, pushing new fluid through the master cylinder and down the clutch line.

The bleed nut must be closed before you lift your foot off the pedal. If the reservoir runs dry for a split second, you will have to repeat the whole process all over again.

Use some shop towel around the slave cylinder bleed nut, it can get a bit messy. Also use a catch tray for old fluid.

[happy]

Yes we know how to bleed a clutch. Just can’t get a hard pedal at all we tried with a mityvac and we know to hold your finger over the bleeder screw when cracking it and tightening it back up then taking finger off so air can’t get sucked back through the bleeder.. I really don’t know what else to try...

[Fatboy 18]

OK

Out of interest which Slave cylinder are you using? Did it come from SPEC or did you get it somewhere else?

[98RedGTS]

I can't fathom you having bad enough luck to get 4 bad ones. Have you inspected all the lines real well? Maybe one has a small pinhole in it.

[happy]

First three were from doorman rock auto this one is from mopar and I bought a new master cylinder from roe racing and put it on too made no difference as well.. and I don’t have headers and I’m using dot4 brake fluid.. No leaks master cylinder never drops.. but is that normal to pump the pedal 20-30 times and when my buddy cracks the bleeder screw to let the fluid out, and closes the screw and I let up on pedal and go and press it again and there is nothing just goes right to the floor...?? Then pump it a few times and slowly starts to get a little hard again..

[Dan Cragin]

I have had at least 15 bad slave cylinders recently. One car had 5 in a row. All would leak. Aftermarket are worse. I am assuming these parts have been on the shelf too long.
In the past my bust luck had been with the factory or Centric slave cylinders. Now I only use factory (expensive) and 2 of the last 5 have failed.

You can image what this can do to a business that warranties their work. I am looking into a plug and play aftermarket solution.

So frustrating, I now cringe when a clutch job comes in.

[dave6666]

I am looking into a plug and play aftermarket solution.

http://bbgspeed.com/product/bbg-pro-...kits-all-gens/

Expensive, but...

[happy]

I have had at least 15 bad slave cylinders recently. One car had 5 in a row. All would leak. Aftermarket are worse. I am assuming these parts have been on the shelf too long.
In the past my bust luck had been with the factory or Centric slave cylinders. Now I only use factory (expensive) and 2 of the last 5 have failed.

You can image what this can do to a business that warranties their work. I am looking into a plug and play aftermarket solution.

So frustrating, I now cringe when a clutch job comes in.

Dan did you ever have any bad that weren't leaking??? Mine isn't leaking but i tried and tried to get the air out and no luck at all. i just hate the thought of pulling that tranny again..

[dave6666]

What method are you bleeding with? I've put in a lot of these slaves in and bled plenty more and always get the air out first bleed.

[happy]

i tried every method you can think.... we used a mity vac stuck in bleeder screw no go... used chuck tators method finger over the end of the bleeder screw crack it with foot down on pedal obviously and let fluid come out for a quick sec close it then take finger off and lift up on pedal after i do that press pedal to the floor again and it would stay to the floor only for the spring on the pedal to pull it back up.

[dave6666]

I've never done it any other way than the Mityvac method from below. New install or rebleed, 100% perfect results every time.

[happy]

So whats that tell ya i have another slave cylinder no good again???

[dave6666]

So whats that tell ya i have another slave cylinder no good again???

Well there could be a variety of responses. 1) I suppose you could have a bad slave, but to be able to suck air in so badly you can't even bleed it properly, that same air leak in would also be a fluid leak out. Whether a seal leak or hole in the casting or whatever. 2) You aren't making a good seal at the bleeder port when bleeding. It's tricky to do but Mityvac does have a fitting that works well. 3) You are unscrewing the bleeder fitting too many turns from the slave body and sucking air right at the slave which means you are sucking air that's coming from the bleed extension leaking at the body and you are not sucking fluid out and therefore not bleeding the slave. I recall not having to unscrew that more than 1 turn if not slightly less.

Does your clutch work at all?