Need help with codes ASAP please

[Arizona Vipers]

I’m at the track now, did one lap this morning and car went into limp mode. See attached pic for the codes. I tried three different fully charged batteries so it’s not the battery. I’m guessing a bad alternator??
I cleared the codes several times they just come back once you restart the car.
Any ideas? Thanks

39D0F6F3-B6E9-480D-A12B-A7065E82B222.jpg

[dadeuce]

Not sure if this helps or provides any insight, but this post did involve a p0560 code:
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post289580

Another one involving a Gen IV and an ASD Relay 1
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ssue?styleid=4

Have you checked the ASD 1 Fuse?

[Jack B]

what is the bat voltage when running

[Arizona Vipers]

Not sure if this helps or provides any insight, but this post did involve a p0560 code:
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post289580

Another one involving a Gen IV and an ASD Relay 1
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ssue?styleid=4

Have you checked the ASD 1 Fuse?

Where is the ASD1 relay located?

[Steve-Indy]

Look at lid of PDC cover for fuse and relay cavity identification. ASD#1 relay is cavity 63 and ASD#2 relay is cavity 64. ASD#1 fuse is cavity 26 and ASD#2 fuse is cavity 27.

[Arizona Vipers]

Look at lid of PDC cover for fuse and relay cavity identification. ASD#1 relay is cavity 63 and ASD#2 relay is cavity 64. ASD#1 fuse is cavity 26 and ASD#2 fuse is cavity 27.

Thanks. ASD #2 was blown

- - - Updated - - -

what is the bat voltage when running

12.6 with fully charged battery so it’s definitely not getting charged

[Steve-Indy]

Have you checked belt tension ??

You might also unplug, then re-plug alternator harness...and look for dirt in connectors.

PCM C3 and C4 harness connectors should also be checked.

Above "doable" suggestions are from 2014 Viper Service Manual CD.

P.S. Since Gen V manuals have no wiring diagrams, I checked 2009 manual to check ASD#2 relay's function...looks like downstream O2 sensors...not sure if there is anything else. This makes me suspect that your fire-breathing Snake may have cooked a wire or two.

[Jack B]

ASD #2 is part of the coil pack control, I will try to find how it is run, no guarantee's.


ASD Feed # 2 also goes to the fan speed control relay.

ASD #2 goes to splice SF343 and then goes to several devices, one being the reverse lockout?

In short, the ASD#2 lands at several device and through splices, the issue could be anywhere, just a guess, you will find a burnt wire somewhere.

here is a general description of ASD#2:
The Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay provides battery voltage to the ignition coil. The PCM provides a ground contact (circuit) for energizing the coil. When the PCM breaks the contact, the energy in the coil primary transfers to the secondary causing the spark. The PCM will de-energize the ASD relay if it does not receive the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor inputs

[stradman]

Read my thread below here Cable. Sounds like your issue is identical to my problem. Look for a melted wire somewhere alongside the exhaust route. Take off sills as well to see, particularly if you still have O2 wires running in that area.
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post289580

[Steve-Indy]

Thanks, Jack...great info for all of us !!

[Arizona Vipers]

Read my thread below here Cable. Sounds like your issue is identical to my problem. Look for a melted wire somewhere alongside the exhaust route. Take off sills as well to see, particularly if you still have O2 wires running in that area.
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...l=1#post289580

Thanks dude. I will have to get the sills off when I find the time. I wrapped the entire wiring harness head to toe when the motor was out, which is going to make this extremely hard to locate if it melted inside the wrap.
Did you replace the entire harness? Or just repair that area?

[Jack B]

Thanks dude. I will have to get the sills off when I find the time. I wrapped the entire wiring harness head to toe when the motor was out, which is going to make this extremely hard to locate if it melted inside the wrap.
Did you replace the entire harness? Or just repair that area?

If it is the rears. merely replace them, they are cheap enough. The fronts are prone to heat damage at the frame rail. You can go above or below the frame rail when you run them. The problem is, the connector is close to the header, therefore, the damage could be to either side of the connector.

[stradman]

Thanks dude. I will have to get the sills off when I find the time. I wrapped the entire wiring harness head to toe when the motor was out, which is going to make this extremely hard to locate if it melted inside the wrap.
Did you replace the entire harness? Or just repair that area?

Yeah well I thought wrapping everything would make it immune. However in the sills there is no escaping the heat. Unwrap the heat insulation as well, because like mine probably from the outside it was fine, but when you slit it open the wires had melted together. just unplug the rear O2 sensor altogether. You don't need it with the Arrows controller. I did and have had zero problem.

[ViperGeorge]

Arizona, which headers are you running? The Bellangers on my 15 melted the inside of the wire harness (outside looked fine). Mine threw various throttle position codes. I agree with Jack though on a Gen 5 the front O2 wires run much too close to the headers by the frame rails and are prone to wires melting even if wrapped. Even if insulated you have to check the insulation periodically as it gets crispy.

The rears O2 wires can melt as well because the heat gets trapped in the sills. When the O2 wires melt they can blow the ASD fuse depending on how they melt and what shorts. Even with the Arrow controller the rear O2 heater circuits (12volt) still activate and if they short will blow the ASD fuse.

On a Gen 4 with headers, the rear O2s were most at risk for wire melting. On a Gen 5 I would say the fronts are more at risk. None the less if you have rear O2s and the Arrow controller, remove the rear O2s. Plug the bung with a threaded insert (I found ones that fit at Lowes).

[lmcgrew79]

100 percent o2 sensor wires, ive blew 2 asd2 fuses as of today. 1 is driver side 2 is passenger side.

[lmcgrew79]

On this same topic, im not sure of the air flow dynamics, but was wondering if like a 3 inch hole in the back of the front fender liners would push any air into that area. The front 02 wires are pretty much directly behind the liner.

[Arizona Vipers]

100 percent o2 sensor wires, ive blew 2 asd2 fuses as of today. 1 is driver side 2 is passenger side.

Thanks dude! Hopefully I can get to it this weekend. If it's the fronts, I don't even need to take the side sills off correct? I'm 99% sure my rears are deleted.
Where, exactly are the fronts located?

[lmcgrew79]

You can reach the fronts through the holes on the bottom, mine this time wasn't the 02 wires but way back behind the 02 plug beside the trans, still the o2 wiring but along the frame rail. My merge collector bolts keep backing out also, i called arh and they have no answer, im gonna try some wedge washers and different bolts.

[Jack B]

Thanks dude! Hopefully I can get to it this weekend. If it's the fronts, I don't even need to take the side sills off correct? I'm 99% sure my rears are deleted.
Where, exactly are the fronts located?

Access to the front O2 can be tough, it depends where the bung was positioned. On some of the Belangers, they put the bung too close to the flange, it makes is harder to remove the O2.

[ViperGeorge]

On this same topic, im not sure of the air flow dynamics, but was wondering if like a 3 inch hole in the back of the front fender liners would push any air into that area. The front 02 wires are pretty much directly behind the liner.

Mark of IPSCO (a friend of mine) fabricated two little scoops out of aluminum which we riveted to the belly tray so as to direct air up through the holes and into the area where the front O2 wires are. Not sure if they actually worked but it looked like they should. There is a similar scoop from the factory towards the rear differential so we figured it should work. They only stuck down maybe 1/2 inch. Would be easy to fabricate your own.

[Jack B]

Mark of IPSCO (a friend of mine) fabricated two little scoops out of aluminum which we riveted to the belly tray so as to direct air up through the holes and into the area where the front O2 wires are. Not sure if they actually worked but it looked like they should. There is a similar scoop from the factory towards the rear differential so we figured it should work. They only stuck down maybe 1/2 inch. Would be easy to fabricate your own.

That is an interesting approach, can I steal your idea?

[ViperGeorge]

That is an interesting approach, can I steal your idea?

Certainly.

[lmcgrew79]

Mark of IPSCO (a friend of mine) fabricated two little scoops out of aluminum which we riveted to the belly tray so as to direct air up through the holes and into the area where the front O2 wires are. Not sure if they actually worked but it looked like they should. There is a similar scoop from the factory towards the rear differential so we figured it should work. They only stuck down maybe 1/2 inch. Would be easy to fabricate your own.

Would be nice to figure out if those holes in the bottom are evacuating air or pulling in air. If evacuating i would think some holes in the liner would work nice, but not sure what kind of pressure zone that would be, if shoving air into the area that should be releasing air it may not do anything.

[Steve-Indy]

Any followup ?

[Arizona Vipers]

Any followup ?

I've got the ACR stuck on the rack for a couple more days, then I'll get the 9 liter up there and see what I can find!