No offense but Data is king, I'd like to see the comparison. I already said I like your product, I just think for a track car that isn't drag raced or street raced may not need it. I've actually read somewhere where you referenced the same. I hear what you said but having an obstruction on the other side of a radiator will affect airflow. Why exactly did Dodge go to a six vent hood instead of the two? Isn't the air intake under the hood the same since they both have only air coming through the radiator/front grill?
Doug, I have two of your heat shields, one on my 14 GTS and one that was on my 15 TA. I tried experiments at the track on my 15 TA with and without the shield, with and without the Arrow controller, and with and without the under drive pulley. Coolant temps and oil temps did not change one way or the other. Car would hit 243 coolant and 265 oil within about 15 minutes on track. IATs didn't change either. This led me to believe there was something else causing the temps to rise. A friend with a bone stock GTS was running similar temps. Maybe it was the waterpump issue that Andy talks about. My ACR runs to about 223 coolant on the track whereas my old 09 ACR rarely even saw 210.
One question I do have about the shield though is does it have to be so deep? It sits down pretty low behind the radiator, is there any impact to airflow through the hood vents? Not sure how you would prove that one way or the other without an wind tunnel.
No offense taken. Sounds like there is at least one data point below. The difference in the hoods allows more air to exit the engine bay (and removing the grilles helps even more) but what I’m saying is that an obstacle is not as big of a difference in the low speed air on the low pressure side of the radiator. The shield is definitely more beneficial at low speeds or idle and there’s less of a difference at high speed with more throttle in the car.
Thanks George. Yeah it’s as small as it can be within reason to clear the drain plug. A more complex shape would make it potentially smaller but more expensive to manufacture. The hood air vents are to the side of the shield but would require complex CFD or a wind tunnel to quantify as you say.
Doug
Last edited by SSGNRDZ_28; 05-19-2018 at 12:22 PM.
Its seems the IAT timing is -3 @86, -4/95, -6/106, -8/113 -10/122, -12/140 degrees, ECT timing is -3/194, -5 @203, -7/212, and -8/221. Im not sure what the arrow pcm does or if these are compounded or its just the highest one. Either way on track the ect seems to be the culprit of timing pull, and on a cold day its easy to get to 203 even remotely cool day 212. Hope to see how this radiator does but pretty sure it wont take the coolant temp much lower.
From the ECT timing pull data above, why don't all us track guys put as much ice as we can fit in the cooling system right before each session? The ECT's will be MUCH colder the entire session.
There's none of us that AREN'T losing power on the track according to the data above. It's pulling 3 degrees at only 194? LOL
Even with ceramic coating, hit the headers with a laser and the get EXTREMELY hot, especially on low gear tracks.
Wrapping solves this, but yes it will lower the lifespan of the header, especially mild steel headers. Without wrap i melted my fusebox, it looked like somebody took a blowtorch to it.
The Belanger's. That being said Lou is a genius and makes badass headers. For my particular needs, I need all the help I can get and wrapped stainless headers for me is going to be my best bet. It's a track only car, here in Arizona and I run in 2nd gear 95% of the time so I'm punishing my headers more than 99.9% of you guys out there. Lou will make you custom heat shields if you ask, so if you are buying/own Belanger's and want to reduce heat just talk to Lou about some heat shields. No matter what header anyone out there is running, we can all agree you need to wrap your entire wiring harness at minimum. Calvo makes a fuse box heat shield as well that I run on both my track cars. To all you header guys out there that track your cars, take your hood vents off and pop your hood open the second you come off track.
I am not advocating any brand of headers, i have run Belanger's for 18 years on multiple vipers. I just installed the ARH over the winter.This has never been discussed before, but, the with the heavy wall and the lower thermal conductivity, the ARH should run dramatically cooler (not cold) than the Belanger's. I noticed it immediately when I installed the ARH headers.
Can anyone comment if they have had a heat issue with ARH at the fuse box? Several cars have had damage to the fuse box with new headers, I wonder what the numbers are, ARH versus Belanger.
Another sidebar, the deacel popping noise almost went away when I pulled the cats off the Belanger's. However, since i installed the ARH headers, the popping under deacel is louder and more prevalent then it has ever been. The only other variable is, I upgraded the fuel pump, however, I believe? the regulator is in the bottle, not in the pump, therefore, it should not affect the deacel popping.
I will post a log of the timing curve tonight. It is worse than you think.
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