I can t figure it out where to start on these gaps Please help

[Fatboy 18]

Now look whats turned up!

Here We go again!







Notice the Clear light covers....... Genuine GTS-R

Now to turn that Autoform Race fascia into this!

[Fatboy 18]

Let 'er rip!

OK, I don't need to be asked twice

[GTS Dean]

Now look whats turned up!

A Belgian beer? I'd prefer a nice Taddy Porter.

[MuRCieLaGo]

Did you guys have to enlarge some holes? For example for these bolts:

Attachment 36145

[Fatboy 18]

Did you guys have to enlarge some holes? For example for these bolts:

Attachment 36145

I did not touch my rear hood bolts.

[MuRCieLaGo]

I did not touch my rear hood bolts.

I don't like it.

I wonder if the body shop down the street would do a 100% job.

[Fatboy 18]

I don't like it.

I wonder if the body shop down the street would do a 100% job.

Whats happened to make you think they need adjusting? Has your hood been pushed back or something?

[MuRCieLaGo]

Whats happened to make you think they need adjusting? Has your hood been pushed back or something?

I've got that classic hood to fascia gap, and I've been told to start by aligning the hood with top of the doors (was slightly off). No known accident...

[ViperTim]

I'm back at it.
It's a god damn nightmare... Currently repairing my front fascia with 3m plastic repair. Half of all the mounting points are broken off by endeavors into hard objects caused by previous owners...

(can't upload pictures. Nothing happens...)

[Fatboy 18]

I'm back at it.
It's a god damn nightmare... Currently repairing my front fascia with 3m plastic repair. Half of all the mounting points are broken off by endeavors into hard objects caused by previous owners...

(can't upload pictures. Nothing happens...)

Are you using a host website for the pictures or trying to upload them from your computer directly here?
If you look on the tool bar you will see an icon with a framed tree, (Insert image) Then click the tab "from Computer" and choose image.
then a attachment code will be generated, then Upload the file.

[GTS Dean]

Did you guys have to enlarge some holes? For example for these bolts:

Attachment 36145

All the upper guide roller catches do is provide some anti-rattle tension and rear hood height adjustment near the door tops. There should be no need to shim them out from the foot boxes. If the hood isn't dropping straight into the catches, then you have to work up front at the hood hinge mounting points. You have fore/aft, left/right, and some l/r twist available within the holes' adjustability range. THIS IS A 2-MAN JOB.

If one corner drops in before the other one does, your front upper frame horns are bent out of level with each other and some frame pulling work will be required. Guess how I know this?

[ViperTim]

Are you using a host website for the pictures or trying to upload them from your computer directly here?
If you look on the tool bar you will see an icon with a framed tree, (Insert image) Then click the tab "from Computer" and choose image.
then a attachment code will be generated, then Upload the file.

From my phone.
Did that, finished loading and just disappears.
Never mind, it was just my car on Jackstands so nothing spectacular.

[Fatboy 18]

I've not tried loading pics up from the phone? I normally plug phone into laptop, then download pics

I totally agree it's a nightmare sorting the front end.

[ViperTim]

I've not tried loading pics up from the phone? I normally plug phone into laptop, then download pics

I totally agree it's a nightmare sorting the front end.

Especially a nightmare on my car that seems to have been in several low speed collisions where all the plastics behind the bumper is f'ed and patched in numerous questionable ways.
But spending half a fortune on just a new (or any solid) radiator support isn't my tune exactly... But that would solve a lot. Like my 1/2" spacers between the rad support and framerails...

[Fatboy 18]

These spacers?

[ViperTim]

These spacers?

Yep.
Except mine aren't oem Dodge, they're plexiglass from the nearest department store

[GTS Dean]

Those notch-outs make them tons easier to R&R than my OEMs:

[MuRCieLaGo]

All the upper guide roller catches do is provide some anti-rattle tension and rear hood height adjustment near the door tops. There should be no need to shim them out from the foot boxes. If the hood isn't dropping straight into the catches, then you have to work up front at the hood hinge mounting points. You have fore/aft, left/right, and some l/r twist available within the holes' adjustability range. THIS IS A 2-MAN JOB.

If one corner drops in before the other one does, your front upper frame horns are bent out of level with each other and some frame pulling work will be required. Guess how I know this?

I pay another guy to help me. I changed my mind and removed all the shims I put previously. Before I began the work, there was no problem whatsoever with the catches. I finally managed to do the first part (hood centering and top door-hood gap) without any shim. Took 4 hours only for that part of the job...

[Fatboy 18]

Paying Someone to help!!!!!!! Man Up

[MuRCieLaGo]

So yesterday I adjusted the headlights to the hood, before realizing that I skipped a step. I am now trying to adjust the bumper to hood gap on each side.

Hood to doors gaps are done, and headlights seem fairly easy to adjust. Bumper to hood is definitely challenging. I tried loosening the bolts of the inner fender wells, without success. I can't really move the core. I'm a bit confused on how to take the core up on the sides... Gaps are absolutely the same left and right.

53417905_10161861052860221_5335864654683963392_o.jpg
53006135_10161860949960221_5821067410760794112_o.jpg
53306913_10161861071325221_368803803710881792_n.jpg
53084529_10161861084575221_5392680139932827648_n.jpg

[dave6666]

1) look at your gap of the hood to the sill

2) if you have not improved the core support attachment to the frame like I'm pretty sure I mentioned when this thread started that can explain things too

[GTS Dean]

It kind-of looks like your core support is cocked out of level in the side view. The core support is moderately-flexible on the outer corners, but you don't want to crack it. You may need to lower the fiberglass rebar a bit for more options. Or, you may need more shims under the core support at the frame.

Remove the splash shield fillers while adjusting the core support.yellow.jpg

[MuRCieLaGo]

Side sills are removed because I have to send them for a respray, once all the gaps are done. If I want cut shims like you posted earlier, I would definitely need to order them (we are saturday, so I'd get them tuesday at the earliest). If I reinstall the side sills and lower the hood, hood will be sitting too low compared to the doors. Hood to doors is actually perfect now.

[MuRCieLaGo]

Thanks for the detailed pictures GTS Dean! I removed the headlights and closeout panels, loosened the noted screws. Most screws all around are loosened now. When I try to (gently) lift a side with a jack, the sides go up for like 3/8", which is not enough. If I lift right in the middle of the core support, the gap on the sides seem to be increasing. So it means that if I add shims from core support to frame, gap will most likely increase on the sides. I am confused.

[GTS Dean]

What about the support tubes to the outer headlight corners? Every bolt that attaches or clamps the core support to the upper frame horns need to be loosened to allow vertical or longitudinal adjustment. It isn't super rigid, so you have to work carefully and snug/shim things up a little at a time.