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  1. #1
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    Those scribbles you find hidden on the car

    So I currently have the front nose off my car, after a bit of cleaning found this!

    Wonder if the people are still around?











    They must have gone through a hell of a lot of marker pens
    Last edited by Fatboy 18; 04-18-2018 at 06:10 PM.

  2. #2
    Did you happen to find any markings on the inside bumper that indicate what kind of plastic the bumper is made of? My bumper also has a crack that needs to be repaired. When I took the Viper to a body shop they also said it couldn't be repaired. I took a look at youtube video repairing the thermoset polyurethane plastic and it does look promising assuming that's the plastic our cars have.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Victor96 View Post
    Did you happen to find any markings on the inside bumper that indicate what kind of plastic the bumper is made of? My bumper also has a crack that needs to be repaired. When I took the Viper to a body shop they also said it couldn't be repaired. I took a look at youtube video repairing the thermoset polyurethane plastic and it does look promising assuming that's the plastic our cars have.
    Yes that is the route I am going to go down. I have found some companies that do this work in the UK but they are a few Hundred miles away from me.
    I could not find any identification molding part numbers on the front nose.

    Check out this video

  4. #4
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    I've torn this bit so am going to try to fix it like in the above video.
    20180418_101443.jpg

  5. #5
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    If my memory is worth a damn, I think Chrysler called it RIM - Resin Injection Molded.

  6. #6
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    I believe you're right, it is RIM (Reaction Injection Molding), did engineering with RIM body panels back in the day for GM. RIM is a form of polyurethane so the plastic welder should work reasonably well. But in my experience, don't be tempted to get a cheaper plastic air welder. They use a ton of compressed air (hard to supply enough), hard to control the temp, and heats the surrounding plastic too much (burns), I did and it sucked big time. That airless welding system from Polyvance 5700HT (looks like what's in the video) looks pretty good, but appears to be fairly expensive to try your hand at it. Though at this point, you don't have much to lose, right?

  7. #7
    Did you try Custom Exotics in Harlow?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger289 View Post
    Did you try Custom Exotics in Harlow?
    No but I will now google the company and check them out.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Fatboy 18; 04-23-2018 at 06:12 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by nrs1 View Post
    I believe you're right, it is RIM (Reaction Injection Molding), did engineering with RIM body panels back in the day for GM. RIM is a form of polyurethane so the plastic welder should work reasonably well. But in my experience, don't be tempted to get a cheaper plastic air welder. They use a ton of compressed air (hard to supply enough), hard to control the temp, and heats the surrounding plastic too much (burns), I did and it sucked big time. That airless welding system from Polyvance 5700HT (looks like what's in the video) looks pretty good, but appears to be fairly expensive to try your hand at it. Though at this point, you don't have much to lose, right?
    Thank you Dean and NRS1
    I sent an email today to Scott Bixler at Polyvance,
    I got a reply straight away and Scott confirmed the Airless welder is what is needed.
    Here is the information in the email

    "Mark,


    Without even knowing the make or model of the car, I can tell you it is definitely urethane. In order to do the repair yourself, you will need the 5700HT 240V Plastic Welder and possibly an extra roll of R01-01-03-NT urethane welding rod. You will also need a flexible filler like our 2000-T filler...You may have an equivalent in the UK to save on the shipping cost"

    Then a How to guide
    "The repair will be a challenge because there are multiple loose parts. If you start by gently warming the bumper and pieces until very warm to the touch (Use a heat gun from one side only...DO NOT get above about 230 deg F!), in the area to be repaired, urethane tends to have a memory and will go back to the pre-collision shape and you should not have to force anything to fit.. The stretching that occurred up until it broke, will tend to shrink back down. I would also use foil tape to put the pieces together before they have completely cooled...then begin welding spots all around until you know the alignment is right. Alternatively, you can start with your best fitting piece and work from there....that works pretty well, too.


    I did not see the subject...Dodge Viper! Nice car!


    Scott Bixler - POLYVANCE
    Product Development Manager
    Tech Support Guru


    1128 Kirk Rd
    Rainsville, AL 35986 USA
    www.polyvance.com
    800-633-3047
    256-638-4103"

    Really Nice to exchange emails with someone that knows what they are talking about.

  10. #10
    Thanks for passing on the info. I can use it so I know if the shop I find knows what they are doing. Now it's time to find a shop that does this type of work. I would imagine there has to be someone in Southern California that does this kind of job.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiger289 View Post
    Did you try Custom Exotics in Harlow?
    Gave them a call, nice guys but they don't have the kit either.


 

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