Started today 7 hours to this point, I only have the accessories and the front cover left.
Heads are at the shop port/new springs, seals, milled for 10.5 CR.
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20180328_081706.jpg
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Started today 7 hours to this point, I only have the accessories and the front cover left.
Heads are at the shop port/new springs, seals, milled for 10.5 CR.
20180328_081650.jpg
20180328_081634.jpg
20180328_081706.jpg
20180328_203600.jpg
Well done sir. Nice project!!!
09 ACR With all the goodies
99 ACR TT 99 red RT/10 Roe S/C
97 B/W RT/10 TT 94 RT/10 TT
Good for you, hope the modding goes well!
What cam did you go with? Are you doing the slow bleed lifters also? I hope to do a cam swap at some point. Love the sound of cammed vipers.
Nice. Look forward to your results.
I hope this isn't a noob question but can you do the heads and cam with the engine in the car?
Thanks
Awesome! Roe is awesome to deal with. I was thinking if it would be easier just to remove the motor? Bending over the fenders and worrying about scratching the car. What head gaskets are you going with?
Are you going to degree your cam? I know you line up the dots for the timing, but I don't think there's any way to adjust the stock timing gear.?Just wondering if you use a stock timing chain and sprockets can you degree the cam?
Stock timing chain you can not degree, Old School, you slot the cam bolt holes. I plan on checking the degree on the cam and will only change it if needed.
Ok, that makes sense..Looking forward to more pictures!:-)
Make sure the cam rotates freely, if you have a borescope look at the cam tunnel in the block. Lots of cams that have been changed without pulling the engine have seized/stuck in the block. There is no good way to inspect the cam tunnel with the engine in the car.
Also put the timing gear on the cam and torque the bolts without the chain, obviously leaving the lifters and valvetrain uninstalled. Make sure the cam still spins over freely.
The reason is to make sure the nose of the cam is ground correctly, if its not when the cam gear is tightened it will not have enough clearance with the cam thrust plate and not be able to rotate.
You will need to check lifter preload as well, the new cam may require a different length pushrod.
While the timing cover is off, pull the oil pump cover, inspect the oil pump gears, and housing to make sure there are no gouges in the timing cover. May be a good time to put in the updated oil PRV, this will give about 5lbs more oil pressure.
The gen 3 lifters are not that good, would recommend going with an aftermarket lifter. Since you are not pulling the engine the only ones i know of that are somewhat successful on a gen 3 are the johnson tie bar lifters and are very expensive!
There are other options but do require the engine to be removed from the car to install them, due to block modifications.
Keep in mind the gen 3 have the worst connecting rods and cast pistons, too much abuse and they come apart.
Good luck with your project!
Great tips and information. I am in a similar situation with my build so I can appreciate small tid bits of info like this. Whats the updated PRV? something we can get from a local dealer?
I did the cam swap on my g2 last spring. Rewarding job. Good luck and make some power.
Nice build!, I just took off my ATI damper today what a pain in the car with the steering rack in the way,
Cam coming out, Start rebuild tomorrow. Heads should be back Friday.
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Awesome!
Very cool.
Any updates?
Pics updates
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