Key Fob Taking a Hike

**gfviperman** · 03-12-2018

2002 GTS ... one of my key fobs decided it has done enough.

Is there a way to test these?

**BrassMonkey ACR E** · 03-12-2018

If you need 1 I have 2 NEW

**Rich Detert** · 03-12-2018

Originally Posted by gfviperman

2002 GTS ... one of my key fobs decided it has done enough.

Is there a way to test these?

You have tried a new battery correct?

It also might simply need to be reprogrammed.

Unless things have changed recently, they're still available from the dealer new.

I believe it was about $75 I paid for one early last year.

**gfviperman** · 03-12-2018

Did try the batteries ...

The other fob works just OK ...

Wonder if the receiver is going???

**Rich Detert** · 03-13-2018

Have you tried reprogramming it to the car?

Both fobs would have to be done at the same time.

**Rich Detert** · 03-13-2018

Key Fob Programming (Gen I/II) Dodge Viper

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1. Ensure the alarm system is not armed.

2. (1996 ~ 1998 GEN II) Ground pin C13 loose green wire taped to harness of EEM connector, which is
under dash mounted on the left side of trans tunnel, directly above accelerator. Easy access if you remove
knee bolster and rubber bungee cord that holds EEM to tunnel. Note: The green wire usually tucked up under
the dash to the left of the radio that has a rubber boot on the end and nothing plugged into it. Find that wire,
ground it and you should be good to go with programming.

2A. (1999 ~ 2002) As #2, but instead of C13 you're grounding Terminal 1 of the DLC. (DLC is the Data
Link Connector, i.e. the under dash OBD2 connector which is above your left knee)

2B. (ALL GEN I) Ground green "Program" Wire located next to SAM and RKE modules. Is a green wire
with a bullet connector on end. Is located under driver's side instrument panel.

NOTE: Use a low amperage fused jumper wire to insure no problems and protect from mistakes.
Make certain sure you're connecting to a solid body ground by testing it with an ohm meter.

3. Turn ignition to run position while green wire is still grounded!

4. EEM acknowledges entry into programming mode by flashing the dash LED.

If it doesn't flash, you either:
- Have the wrong wire
- Aren't solidly grounded
- You came off ground after the ignition switch was placed in the run position. Start over.

5. (All GEN II) Press BOTH buttons on the transmitter simultaneously and continuously for 10 seconds.
You will hear a triple horn chirp when FOB is accepted by the EEM.

5B. (All GEN I) Press and release the arm or disarm button on either FOB, then same for the next.

6. You MUST program all FOBS during the same programming process. You can program up to 4 on
a GEN II and I think only 2 on a GEN I.

That's it. Turn the ignition off and remove green wire from ground, then test the arm and disarm functions.

**Steve-Indy** · 03-13-2018

Before you try to reprogram the fobs, I would try to resync the non-working fob. This is done by standing close to the Viper (I stand by the driver side mirror), hold both the lock and unlock buttons down for up to 10 seconds while you wait for a horn chirp. If successful, the fob should work.

One other point that I have noted before you go too far: Be SURE that you have correctly reassembled the fob after changing the battery.

Finally...yes, there is a test instrument at shops to see if the fob is putting out a signal.

**gfviperman** · 03-13-2018

The resync worked!!!

Thankx Mr. Indy!!!

Used to remember this stuff ... no issues for a long time which is good ... car had been very good ...

Rich, will copy and keep your instructions!!

Thankx you, also ...

Getting older which can be another whole issue ...

**Steve-Indy** · 03-13-2018

Glad it worked for you.

Actually, we all owe a BIG THANKS to Member "Ron" who originally thought out, composed, then post his "Key Fob Programming (Gen I/II) Dodge Viper" directions over 15 years ago !!!

Ron is a great Viper Guy...and, he has taught me a lot through the years.

THANKS, Ron !!