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  1. #1

    Picking up a drive on lift any must have accessories

    I'm picking up a 4 post drive on lift Sat. It's used (I know the owner) but basically brand new. He just used it in his garage to store one of his high end show cars on it and park another under it. He's getting out of the hobby and is purging his garage so I'm picking up the lift. The lift already comes with drive on ramps that should work for the Viper, a drip pan tray and a jacking tray that you can use bottle jacks in to lift the car off the ground to work on the suspension.

    Figured I'd ask the pro's on here if their were any accessories that you find you use all the time that I should consider. I'm thinking about some kind of jack that I can use to hold the engine, trans or exhaust up if I'm needing to do any work on those items. For instance, I'm about to tackle my motor mounts so this is perfect timing.

  2. #2
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    I bought this jack from Harbor Freight and it is great for working on motor mounts ect... while on the lift. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...and-61600.html

    Also these drain pans are awesome for doing oil changes https://www.walmart.com/ip/20-Gal-Po...&wl13=&veh=sem

  3. #3
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    You have a all the things you need. I find that when I put classic cars on my lifts for storage that I need to tape the drip trays together or the wind blows them around and i get oil on the car below. Even in the garage.

    If you have the steel ramps the aluminum upgraded ones if you can find them are a god sent. The steel ones I have weight a sold 40lb's each and the aluminum ones weight 10. IE my wife can get the Viper or one of the old cars down without me.

    Biggest thing is making sure that it is really level when you install it and if it has bolt mounting plates you will only need one on each corner and use the ouside bolts to save the tires of the car you park underneath.

  4. #4
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    98 Red, great for you, you'll enjoy the ability to work on your car plus the storage.

    Your list looks good, my only suggestion, aluminum ramps. Here's a link I pulled up, not endorsing this company or price. Their text says the steel ramps are 53 lbs each, the aluminum ones are 18 lbs each. My wife got me aluminum ones years ago and they work great. Drop a steel one on your feet or hands and you'll understand!

    https://jmcautomotiveequipment.com/t...SABEgLyYPD_BwE

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by cburke996 View Post
    I bought this jack from Harbor Freight and it is great for working on motor mounts ect... while on the lift. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...and-61600.html

    Also these drain pans are awesome for doing oil changes https://www.walmart.com/ip/20-Gal-Po...&wl13=&veh=sem
    That jack will help a lot. Thanks!

    I forgot to add that it also comes with 2 sets of aluminum ramps and the caster kit for when it needs to be moved. I have a 15x50 enclosed storage unit that I use as my shop that I rent (my property is to small for a shop) so I'm not allowed to bolt into the concrete. This lift is free standing that he's never used bolts for so hopefully that's not an issue/concern.

  6. #6
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    Even better than aluminum ramps. 48" seem to work best. If you get a rolling jack or need more clearance look at the shop ramps.

    https://raceramps.com/ramp-category/...nd-lift-ramps/

  7. #7
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    Hey Red, I went 14 years unbolted, until a cable snapped and this happened.

    Lift 2.jpg

    Lift 3.jpg

    Lift 1.jpg

    Lift 4.jpg

  8. #8
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    Wow! Mine is going on 20 years and unbolted. Cannot imag8ne how a cable could snap. Though I did lose a pulley (bearing froze) which also caused a tilt. But it was caught before too much tilt and before a leg moved. I now watch carefully.

  9. #9
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    SRT, the guys who repaired my lift said the cables should be changed every 8-12 years depending on usage. I never knew that, mine were 14 years old

  10. #10
    That should not happen on a properly adjusted lift. The cable is not meant to support the car in storage. The ladder bars are supposed to be adjusted so it catches and holds the weight of the car. In the even of a failure the car would only drop a couple inches until it latched into the next slot. I don’t bolt mine down. Given with use it will tend to walk from being driven on and off of but it is not hat much. I’ve had mine installed for over a year and it has only walked about and inch.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatithunder View Post
    That should not happen on a properly adjusted lift. The cable is not meant to support the car in storage. The ladder bars are supposed to be adjusted so it catches and holds the weight of the car. In the even of a failure the car would only drop a couple inches until it latched into the next slot. I don’t bolt mine down. Given with use it will tend to walk from being driven on and off of but it is not hat much. I’ve had mine installed for over a year and it has only walked about and inch.
    ducati, I'm not going to argue with you, do a quick google search. these lift's are not "set and forget." Here's a passage from Bendpak, plenty others out there for maintenance, etc.

    Wire Rope Inspection and Maintenance
    We’ll spend the rest of this article on how to inspect the cable system. All lifting cables should be replaced every three to five years or when damage is visible. The better you take care of your cables, the longer they’ll last. One of best things you can do is keep your cables lubricated with 90-WT gear oil or ALMASOL® Wire Rope Lubricant. These oils/lubricants get deep into the fibers to prevent damage. Lubricate your cables every three months (four times a year). Mark it on your calendar at home or work to remind you when it’s car lift and cable maintenance time.

  12. #12
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    I will definitely be taking a closer look and lubing then as well. I expect any failure to be use related and not time related. My usage is about once a week in peak season, and seldom during the off season. Viper only, no heavy vehicles. The bearing failure I had several years back was clearly my fault due to cleaning and not lubing the pulley bearing.

  13. #13
    Not trying to argue about changing wire or inspecting it to find damage. My comment was more related to how the lift failed after the cable broke and the car fell. The manual also states that the load should only be supported on the cable when lifting and lowering. The longer the cable is loaded the quicker it fails. That’s just common sense.

    Quote Originally Posted by RedTanRT/10 View Post
    ducati, I'm not going to argue with you, do a quick google search. these lift's are not "set and forget." Here's a passage from Bendpak, plenty others out there for maintenance, etc.

    Wire Rope Inspection and Maintenance
    We’ll spend the rest of this article on how to inspect the cable system. All lifting cables should be replaced every three to five years or when damage is visible. The better you take care of your cables, the longer they’ll last. One of best things you can do is keep your cables lubricated with 90-WT gear oil or ALMASOL® Wire Rope Lubricant. These oils/lubricants get deep into the fibers to prevent damage. Lubricate your cables every three months (four times a year). Mark it on your calendar at home or work to remind you when it’s car lift and cable maintenance time.


 

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