2004 New Owner New Member as well Any Concerns w 2004

[shaf3i]

Hi there.

Just purchased my 2004 Dodge Viper Convertible. Silver.

Is there anything I should be concerned about?

On my list:

1- Get AirBag recall fixed ASAP.
2- I heard that Window Regulator problems are common. Are there any signs that my windows will stop working? Or do I have to wait until the switch stops working, then get the regulators changed. =)

Feel free to inform me about things I should do/change.

Thanks. =)

[Steve-Indy]

2004 has smaller harmonic damper bolt using less torque...check for tightness. If loose, follow posted procedure to clean bolt, add Loctite, torque to 160 ft-lbs instead of original 130 ft-lbs. Expect oil cooler line fittings to leak...replace fittings multiple times, or get Dan Lesser's replacement lines.

Window regulators will make loud noise...or pop upon failure. Some seem to die more slowly than others. If you see that smart glass not lowering on door action, try to use relearn procedure.

Inspect parking brake pads regularly...Inboard pads tend to drag...will eat rotors. If caught early, can swap with outboard pads for a few more thousand miles of use.

[J TNT]

Steve-Indy pretty much covered it . I would replace all the FLUID's . If your tires are older than 6 years I would replace them .

[ViperSRT]

I have not done the airbag recall. Call it choosing the path with lesser evil.

[Creatre]

Yeah I would change all fluids. No worries on window regulator until it stops working. No use replacing them until that point.

[ViperSRT]

Agreed. Knock on wood but my window regulators have been without any issue. And used frequently during driving season. Fluids, tires, brakes, belt. With fluids don’t forget clutch and brake. 14 years is a long time for those fluids.

[Steve-Indy]

Here are a couple of points on "Fluids"...YOUR planned use may vary:

Fluids for 2003 Viper SRT-10...OEM plus updates...Street use.

ENGINE...Motor oil ...2003 and 2004 Vipers came with Mobil 1 10 W-30 (best price is 5 qt. jugs at Wal-Mart)...read the label carefully as there are several different 10W-30's made by Mobil 1 that are sold there. Starting with 2005, was "factory fill" changed to Mobil 1 0W-40.... NOTE: As published in Viper Mag...Mobil 1's 0W-40 is FINE for all Vipers...and for warm climates and/or track use, Mobil 1's 15W-50 works as well. Both of these oils have better levels (higher) of Phosphorus and Zinc...a good thing.

ENGINE...MOPAR Oil Filter ( NOW Viper Specific 1992 thru 2006) 05037836AB. (note "AB" and NOT "AA"). BE VERY CAREFUL when installing filter to be sure that the gasket stays centered as they tend to "creep" since many are somewhat loose when removed from the box. I inspect it with a strong light and mirror once installed be be sure that there are no gaps or wrinkles...both of which can lead to a sudden and massive leak. Also pre-fill filter and put a light film of the fresh oil on the gasket before installing (being SURE that all of the old gasket has been removed from the point of installation).

POWER STEERING...MOPAR "Power Steering Fluid Fluid" 04883077 was the "factory Fill" in 2003 Vipers. However, that changed in 2004 Vipers (through model year 2010) when the "factory fill" became Mopar "ATF+4" ( which IS an upgraded Automatic Transmission Fluid). This fluid came in quarts labeled "ATF+4" while the pint size was labeled "Power Steering+4". The last part number that I saw was 05013457AA ...noting that these numbers can change.

BRAKES AND CLUTCH...MOPAR "Brake & Clutch Fluid DOT 4" 04549625AD. NOTE: all Viper clutch reservoir caps (Gen I-IV) say "DOT 3" even on 2010 cars...DOT 3 fluid HAS NOT BEEN USED as a Viper factory fill for the clutch since 1998 model year...see YOUR Owners Manual.

[shaf3i]

wow. thanks for the quick reply! i will make sure to check all that. Thanks again! =)

- - - Updated - - -

2004 has smaller harmonic damper bolt using less torque...check for tightness. If loose, follow posted procedure to clean bolt, add Loctite, torque to 160 ft-lbs instead of original 130 ft-lbs. Expect oil cooler line fittings to leak...replace fittings multiple times, or get Dan Lesser's replacement lines.

Window regulators will make loud noise...or pop upon failure. Some seem to die more slowly than others. If you see that smart glass not lowering on door action, try to use relearn procedure.

Inspect parking brake pads regularly...Inboard pads tend to drag...will eat rotors. If caught early, can swap with outboard pads for a few more thousand miles of use.

wow. thanks for the quick reply! i will make sure to check all that. Thanks again! =)

[shaf3i]

Here are a couple of points on "Fluids"...YOUR planned use may vary:

Fluids for 2003 Viper SRT-10...OEM plus updates...Street use.

ENGINE...Motor oil ...2003 and 2004 Vipers came with Mobil 1 10 W-30 (best price is 5 qt. jugs at Wal-Mart)...read the label carefully as there are several different 10W-30's made by Mobil 1 that are sold there. Starting with 2005, was "factory fill" changed to Mobil 1 0W-40.... NOTE: As published in Viper Mag...Mobil 1's 0W-40 is FINE for all Vipers...and for warm climates and/or track use, Mobil 1's 15W-50 works as well. Both of these oils have better levels (higher) of Phosphorus and Zinc...a good thing.

ENGINE...MOPAR Oil Filter ( NOW Viper Specific 1992 thru 2006) 05037836AB. (note "AB" and NOT "AA"). BE VERY CAREFUL when installing filter to be sure that the gasket stays centered as they tend to "creep" since many are somewhat loose when removed from the box. I inspect it with a strong light and mirror once installed be be sure that there are no gaps or wrinkles...both of which can lead to a sudden and massive leak. Also pre-fill filter and put a light film of the fresh oil on the gasket before installing (being SURE that all of the old gasket has been removed from the point of installation).

POWER STEERING...MOPAR "Power Steering Fluid Fluid" 04883077 was the "factory Fill" in 2003 Vipers. However, that changed in 2004 Vipers (through model year 2010) when the "factory fill" became Mopar "ATF+4" ( which IS an upgraded Automatic Transmission Fluid). This fluid came in quarts labeled "ATF+4" while the pint size was labeled "Power Steering+4". The last part number that I saw was 05013457AA ...noting that these numbers can change.

BRAKES AND CLUTCH...MOPAR "Brake & Clutch Fluid DOT 4" 04549625AD. NOTE: all Viper clutch reservoir caps (Gen I-IV) say "DOT 3" even on 2010 cars...DOT 3 fluid HAS NOT BEEN USED as a Viper factory fill for the clutch since 1998 model year...see YOUR Owners Manual.

thanks for the details. i was about to sleep, but wanted to reply to u just before... so forgive me if i don't reply on everything u sent. but i will re-check ALL that u said in the morning, for sure...

Regarding the Engine Oil. Yes, i AM familiar with the HIGH ZINC oils. Since i also own a 1970 Chevelle SS 454, I was looking for a HIGH ZINC oil for that baby as well... Since the owner I bought it from was using a HIGH ZINC oil, but sadly, I did not find the same oil in my area. So i was actually looking for close substitutes... So ur absolutely right. =) All ur comments, much appreciated!

[Steve-Indy]

Most of what I posted on fluids was with the purpose of clarifying some persistent inaccuracies in factory manuals, etc. I certainly am not trying to dictate choice of fluids for individuals.

There are lots of great oils out there...noting that oil formulations constantly evolve. My choice are based on OEM specs, and are well suited to our street driven Vipers. Things change in my mind for serious track usage...particularly endurance racing.

Spring is coming...ENJOY your great car !!

[sonicbloo]

Also keep your eye on the oil cooler lines, OEM are well known to leak at the ends. Watch for spots on the garage floor. There are lots of threads on here about this issue.

Make sure you use friction modifier additive when doing a fluid change in your diff.

Suspension also has grease nipples so pump some grease in periodically.

If you don't use the car too much, keep it on a trickle charge. If the battery goes flat or is disconnected to work on the car, you can't open the doors......... apart from with the secret key hole (which can get stiff due to lack of use)

Enjoy !!!

[ViperSRT]

Here are a couple of points on "Fluids"...YOUR planned use may vary:

Fluids for 2003 Viper SRT-10...OEM plus updates...Street use.

ENGINE...Motor oil ...2003 and 2004 Vipers came with Mobil 1 10 W-30 (best price is 5 qt. jugs at Wal-Mart)...read the label carefully as there are several different 10W-30's made by Mobil 1 that are sold there. Starting with 2005, was "factory fill" changed to Mobil 1 0W-40.... NOTE: As published in Viper Mag...Mobil 1's 0W-40 is FINE for all Vipers...and for warm climates and/or track use, Mobil 1's 15W-50 works as well. Both of these oils have better levels (higher) of Phosphorus and Zinc...a good thing.

ENGINE...MOPAR Oil Filter ( NOW Viper Specific 1992 thru 2006) 05037836AB. (note "AB" and NOT "AA"). BE VERY CAREFUL when installing filter to be sure that the gasket stays centered as they tend to "creep" since many are somewhat loose when removed from the box. I inspect it with a strong light and mirror once installed be be sure that there are no gaps or wrinkles...both of which can lead to a sudden and massive leak. Also pre-fill filter and put a light film of the fresh oil on the gasket before installing (being SURE that all of the old gasket has been removed from the point of installation).

POWER STEERING...MOPAR "Power Steering Fluid Fluid" 04883077 was the "factory Fill" in 2003 Vipers. However, that changed in 2004 Vipers (through model year 2010) when the "factory fill" became Mopar "ATF+4" ( which IS an upgraded Automatic Transmission Fluid). This fluid came in quarts labeled "ATF+4" while the pint size was labeled "Power Steering+4". The last part number that I saw was 05013457AA ...noting that these numbers can change.

BRAKES AND CLUTCH...MOPAR "Brake & Clutch Fluid DOT 4" 04549625AD. NOTE: all Viper clutch reservoir caps (Gen I-IV) say "DOT 3" even on 2010 cars...DOT 3 fluid HAS NOT BEEN USED as a Viper factory fill for the clutch since 1998 model year...see YOUR Owners Manual.

Note 2003 were recalled and part of the recall was to change the power steering fluid to ATF+4. If the color is clear it wasn’t changed. Do not mix them.

[shaf3i]

Most of what I posted on fluids was with the purpose of clarifying some persistent inaccuracies in factory manuals, etc. I certainly am not trying to dictate choice of fluids for individuals.

There are lots of great oils out there...noting that oil formulations constantly evolve. My choice are based on OEM specs, and are well suited to our street driven Vipers. Things change in my mind for serious track usage...particularly endurance racing.

Spring is coming...ENJOY your great car !!

aha... well this is what i "should be" using for my 1970 Chevelle 454:
(Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Racing Motor Oil - 1qt (Case of 6) (822347-6PK).

In the summer, outside temp reaches 50 deg C... So 20W-50 is excellent because of our hot weather...

*I said "should use" because this Engine Oil is not available in my area... Im still not sure whats the best substitute. {With High Zinc.} My mechanic (aka my uncle), replaced the engine oil without telling me when he was replacing the Cam Shaft... the funny part is that i have no clue what oil he put! that's a bummer, but its been at least a year since he changed it. And i would like to put something with High Zinc... these r some of the oils avail. in our market: Redline, Royal Purple, and also Torco Oil... any specific one you would recommend?

My driving style: street cruising. i don't like to take my cars to track (yes, im missing out, i know). But i just like to cruise. =)

My final question: Should i use the same oil for my 2004 Viper? (as my chevelle)... Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Racing Motor Oil ? (its substitute obviously since its not avail. in our market... plus i searched online to c if they'd deliver it to my doorstep. There r certain regulations and prohibs. including: Engine oil, Motor Oil... so its hard to get it, unless i really try to ask around... a friend of mine is the official dist. of Elf Racing Fuel in my country. Maybe i can ask him if he can order some Valvoline... if he can ship Fuel (highly flammable goods)... im pretty sure Engine oil through him would come in, easily =P)

And yes, spring is coming! u2, enjooooooy!

P.S. Where i live, its only Summer/Winter... funny ha? Summer hits 50 deg C. And winters 17 deg C minimum! hahah. Only 2 seasons =P (I live close to Dubai, UAE. In case ur wondering) =)

[shaf3i]

Also keep your eye on the oil cooler lines, OEM are well known to leak at the ends. Watch for spots on the garage floor. There are lots of threads on here about this issue.

Make sure you use friction modifier additive when doing a fluid change in your diff.

Suspension also has grease nipples so pump some grease in periodically.

If you don't use the car too much, keep it on a trickle charge. If the battery goes flat or is disconnected to work on the car, you can't open the doors......... apart from with the secret key hole (which can get stiff due to lack of use)

Enjoy !!!

will do, thanks a lot!!! =)

[BillyC]

aha... well this is what i "should be" using for my 1970 Chevelle 454:
(Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Racing Motor Oil - 1qt (Case of 6) (822347-6PK).

In the summer, outside temp reaches 50 deg C... So 20W-50 is excellent because of our hot weather...

*I said "should use" because this Engine Oil is not available in my area... Im still not sure whats the best substitute. {With High Zinc.} My mechanic (aka my uncle), replaced the engine oil without telling me when he was replacing the Cam Shaft... the funny part is that i have no clue what oil he put! that's a bummer, but its been at least a year since he changed it. And i would like to put something with High Zinc... these r some of the oils avail. in our market: Redline, Royal Purple, and also Torco Oil... any specific one you would recommend?

My driving style: street cruising. i don't like to take my cars to track (yes, im missing out, i know). But i just like to cruise. =)

My final question: Should i use the same oil for my 2004 Viper? (as my chevelle)... Valvoline 20W-50 VR1 Racing Motor Oil ? (its substitute obviously since its not avail. in our market... plus i searched online to c if they'd deliver it to my doorstep. There r certain regulations and prohibs. including: Engine oil, Motor Oil... so its hard to get it, unless i really try to ask around... a friend of mine is the official dist. of Elf Racing Fuel in my country. Maybe i can ask him if he can order some Valvoline... if he can ship Fuel (highly flammable goods)... im pretty sure Engine oil through him would come in, easily =P)

And yes, spring is coming! u2, enjooooooy!

P.S. Where i live, its only Summer/Winter... funny ha? Summer hits 50 deg C. And winters 17 deg C minimum! hahah. Only 2 seasons =P (I live close to Dubai, UAE. In case ur wondering) =)

Just curious? When you say the oil you "should be" using is "not available in my area" are you saying that Amazon does not deliver to your area?
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-20W...cing+Motor+Oil

[shaf3i]

Just curious? When you say the oil you "should be" using is "not available in my area" are you saying that Amazon does not deliver to your area?
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-20W...cing+Motor+Oil

When you live as far away as Dubai, 95% of all products on amazon can NOT be delivered to you directly... So what you need is a Secondary Address or "middle man"... there are professional warehouses like BORDERLINX.com

with borderlinx, u simply register with them for free... they give u addresses... for ex. a u.s. address.. uk... Germany.. etc... wherever is closest to where ur shipping from... so for ex. U.S.A... so u put the address they have made for u when ordering sth off of amazon...

they receive the goods. they upload the list of goods names onto their website (u can c it when u log in)... once all ur items r shipped to ur "U.S. address", u can click RELEASE items to my main address (near Dubai...) They charge u for it... not cheap... around $150+ in total... if you have a lot of items, especially heavy items. price shoots up way higher than that...

so Borderlinx acts as a middle man, solving this problem... they do have rules... for instance, ur goods can stay at their warehouse for a max of 30 days free... Every additional day after that, you pay $5 for EACH product that stays in their warehouse... so $5 per product per day after the 30 days "grace period..."

whats gd about them? u can c exactly what has shipped/what hasn't... so u know who to contact&follow up on amazon (seller's i mean)...

i always use borderlinx. their service is very convenient. + i save a lot, cuz they put all the products together and ship as bulk (bundle).. if i were to ship every single product directly from amazon to my address on its own... i would pay hundreds on each product just for shipping cost...

in conclusion, borderlinx has rules... among them, u can NOT ship motor oil/engine oil... so i hope that answers ur question...

and i just found a nice company. CAM2... they DO sell it in my country... and they hv a high performance oil as well (high in zinc!!!)... 20W-50... perfect for our weather... so most prolly ill go with that...

sorry i talk a lot. just wanted u 2 understand how it is for ppl like us who have to deal with middlemen which have rules and a prohibited items list...

so yeah... =)

plz let me know if u've heard of CAM2... im looking to purchase their big barrel, to use the engine oil for my 454 chevelle AND 2004 viper... i believe i need a total of 16 qt to change the engine oils for both cars... =)

[Steve-Indy]

If your friend can get ELF motor oil, you might want to look at ELF Evolution FT 0W-40

http://catalog.elf.com/en/products/b...N-900-FT-0W-40

[viper04blk]

here is my 2cents (i know a some have been mentioned already)

replace your ebrake pads... just do it, they are cheap. Buy them from Jon B

Never use your e-brake ever again unless you have to

Replace your oil lines, do not use dodge parts, use after market

Check your tires date code, if they are older then 4 years....buy new ones (doesnt matter how good your tread is)...unless you want to write your viper off.

Check your harmonic balancer bolt

Check that you dont have a dodge neon oil filter currently on the car....confirm you have the correct part number for oil filter.

Replace your engine and tranny mounts ... they will likely be dried out by now, makes shifting horrible(woodhouse mounts are AWESOME)

replace your clutch pedal bushing...its 5 bucks....could save you a tow truck trip

Airbag recall...... listen how squeaky and rattly your dash is now. Do you think it would be better or worse if some mechanic (who is used to working on rams and caravans .... not a 15 year old viper) ripped the entire thing apart and put it all back together? Think all those hard plastic dash pieces will survive without damage? Will the mechanic be honest and replace any damaged parts as he completes his quest?

Replace all your fluids, keep in mind that a viper is unique - your power steering fluid runs your cooling fan.

HAVE FUN!

[viper04blk]

1 more thing...

replace your battery

[shaf3i]

If your friend can get ELF motor oil, you might want to look at ELF Evolution FT 0W-40

http://catalog.elf.com/en/products/b...N-900-FT-0W-40

he does sell elf oil for sure... but this is not High in Zinc and Phosphorous... so i will hv to pass. but thanks. =)

[shaf3i]

here is my 2cents (i know a some have been mentioned already)

replace your ebrake pads... just do it, they are cheap. Buy them from Jon B

Never use your e-brake ever again unless you have to

Replace your oil lines, do not use dodge parts, use after market

Check your tires date code, if they are older then 4 years....buy new ones (doesnt matter how good your tread is)...unless you want to write your viper off.

Check your harmonic balancer bolt

Check that you dont have a dodge neon oil filter currently on the car....confirm you have the correct part number for oil filter.

Replace your engine and tranny mounts ... they will likely be dried out by now, makes shifting horrible(woodhouse mounts are AWESOME)

replace your clutch pedal bushing...its 5 bucks....could save you a tow truck trip

Airbag recall...... listen how squeaky and rattly your dash is now. Do you think it would be better or worse if some mechanic (who is used to working on rams and caravans .... not a 15 year old viper) ripped the entire thing apart and put it all back together? Think all those hard plastic dash pieces will survive without damage? Will the mechanic be honest and replace any damaged parts as he completes his quest?

Replace all your fluids, keep in mind that a viper is unique - your power steering fluid runs your cooling fan.

HAVE FUN!

Thanks. Ill add all that to my checklist... Airbag recall, u have a gd point... i want to remove my dashboard on my '70 chevelle to put in the Vintage Air A/C that i ordered. But the dashboard already has a big crack... It will fall to bits if i open it, hahah. So i know what u mean...

Regarding the battery. Does the 2004 viper use a 600 CCA battery? i read in one of the other forums, that when changing the batt, they'll ask if u want a 650amp or 800ish amp batt... this person suggested to go with the higher 800 amp range... so i asked my dodge dealer here, if they have 600 CCA batteries... 800+ amps... they told me, that is what is on the new Cherokees... should cost me around $300 with fitting...

i will check the batt, if it still has some life left, i might keep it on for a while... =)

thanks again.