Another Subwoofer Upgrade Option with pics

[Vipermann]

I installed this today:

- Memphis 6.5" PRX6D2 Subwoofer / 2ohm wired for 4ohm (41oz. magnet, 2.96" depth, 82db sensitivity) Claimed power range of 25-300rms.
- 1/4" paper composite mounting spacer from SimplySpeakers (comes with adhesive)
- Yellow expanding foam (small squirts in some open corners behind stock box ported tube)
- Glued and cut off excess plastic GM body fastener to fill mounting hole in the back of box (under the foam)

It all fits nicely behind the stock speaker grill. Way deeper and louder than stock subwoofer, and now have to turn the bass down to about -4 or -5. Have 6" JL speakers in the doors. Sounds much better with most music, but soul & hip hop give it too much reverb for my taste. Wondering if it will sound even better with a different amp and lower cross-over?

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[Creatre]

Are you using the stock amp? Did you leave the port in? I have the kicker 6.5” and wired in an alpine 90w amp that connects to the headunit (kinda cool mini amp). I’m so disapointed, bass is way lower than stock. I also sealed off the port.

[ACtechOPS]

When I first got my Viper the factory sub rattled so it was the first thing to go. Replaced it with a 6.5 Kicker, sealed the enclosure and plugged the port. With the factory amp, the results were underwhelming and it is what inspired me to do a complete system overhaul. The experience also removed Kicker from any future upgrades.

[Steve M]

Are you using the stock amp? Did you leave the port in? I have the kicker 6.5” and wired in an alpine 90w amp that connects to the headunit (kinda cool mini amp). I’m so disapointed, bass is way lower than stock. I also sealed off the port.

It's not worth wasting your time and effort IMO - you'll never get that center 6.5" to make enough bass for it to really make a difference with the engine running. It is in a bad location, the box doesn't have enough volume, and the 6.5" sub just can't move enough air.

I went through this years ago just for giggles - I removed the port, sealed the box, applied sound deadening, added an MDF spacer to accept a slightly deeper 6.5" CDT audio subwoofer, and then fed it with 350 watts from the sub channel of an aftermarket amp. It sounds decent with the engine off, but as soon as you start it up, it gets drowned out by the bass of the V-10. The nice thing about a coupe is you can just install a large box and sub in the hatch...that's not an option with a vert though.

[viperBase1]

..you'll never get that center 6.5" to make enough bass for it to really make a difference with the engine running.
It sounds decent with the engine off, but as soon as you start it up, it gets drowned out by the bass of the V-10.

My thoughts exactly.

What I hear is the merging of the low end sound waves.
Constructive Merge (doubles amplitude) and Destructive Merge (cancels amplitude). So much for the harmonic overtones.
Both are bad and it makes a mess of the audio.
It's not worth it to try and compete with the low end bass tones of the engine & exhaust (which I like anyway!)

Was thinking:

• do a full frequency spectrum analysis inside the cab and adjust the entire system to fit the available frequency spectrum better.
• install an equalizer with a Low Cut Filter, dial it in.. and then tweak the rest of the spectrum to cut through where needed. (a multiband compressor would be sweet!)
• install an adjustable (non-active, no microphones) Noise Cancelling system (on the crazy end)

Any which-away, gotta jettison the big center boom box.
Considering the audio environment inside the cab, that thing is just goofy,

[SA Heat]

These cars have stereos?

[Steve M]

These cars have stereos?

Noisy ballast.

[SA Heat]

Noisy ballast.

...

[Vipermann]

you'll never get that center 6.5" to make enough bass for it to really make a difference with the engine running. It is in a bad location, the box doesn't have enough volume, and the 6.5" sub just can't move enough air.

My set up uses the factory box and keeps the port. Actually makes too much bass now. Sounds tight, deep and loud with most songs. But some hip hop songs are made to impress with a ton of bass - then I have to change the channel or adjust the sound settings back to -5 on bass...

I would like to change the cross-over now to send only the lowest frequencies to the sub (my 6" JLs in the door can do the rest). Wonder if that min-amp would help also?

[viperBase1]

Found this car EQ on Amazon. LINK
Is a broad spectrum EQ that sits in the trunk. but doesn't have any filters. No doubt there's one out there $omewhere

Check the remote that mounts up front.
acr3.JPG

I swear I didn't photoshop that shit!

[viperBase1]

My set up uses the factory box and keeps the port. Actually makes too much bass now. Sounds tight, deep and loud with most songs. But some hip hop songs are made to impress with a ton of bass - then I have to change the channel or adjust the sound settings back to -5 on bass...

I would like to change the cross-over now to send only the lowest frequencies to the sub (my 6" JLs in the door can do the rest). Wonder if that min-amp would help also?

Hey first my apologies for the slight tangent on your thread.

I think you're on the right track with the part about using the cross-over.. I vote you use it to try and bury the lowest frequencies. Almost like a low-cut filter, or a low-pass filter set kinda high (e.g. above 100hz).

[Redx]

On a somewhat unrelated install matter, i purchased a focal ibus 2.1 that i will be installing hopefully sometime soon under the passenger seat. It does fit, just havent had time to wire it up yet.

[Steve M]

On a somewhat unrelated install matter, i purchased a focal ibus 2.1 that i will be installing hopefully sometime soon under the passenger seat. It does fit, just havent had time to wire it up yet.

Interesting - what are you going to do with the amplifier?

[Redx]

Interesting - what are you going to do with the amplifier?

Well it’s to power components. I did buy a set of 6.5” focal components only to find out the doors are 6”. I will be looking to add a set of 6” Jl or Rockford components.

[Steve M]

Well it’s to power components. I did buy a set of 6.5” focal components only to find out the doors are 6”. I will be looking to add a set of 6” Jl or Rockford components.

I was more curious about the factory amplifier under the passenger seat - as in, did you already move it, or are you using an aftermarket amp that's mounted somewhere else? I removed the factory amp under the passenger seat, but replaced it with a more powerful aftermarket one that just barely fits under there.

[Redx]

I was more curious about the factory amplifier under the passenger seat - as in, did you already move it, or are you using an aftermarket amp that's mounted somewhere else? I removed the factory amp under the passenger seat, but replaced it with a more powerful aftermarket one that just barely fits under there.

The amp will be pulled and replaced. The ibus 2.1 is a 2 channel amp with a 8” subwoofer.

[Steve M]

I guess it would help if I read the description...nevermind me. Definitely an interesting product.

[ACtechOPS]

Interested in your results with the ibus. Running 10 focals and a JL sub in the passenger footwel lwith a JL 650 under the seat. Works great but on long trips i have to remove the sub for wife's comfort. The ibus is a potential solution. Keep us posted.

[viperBase1]

Hey does anybody have a wiring diagram / schizmo for the GenIV Sound System? (quick search didn't find anything)

[10 green]

interested in wiring diagram as well. would like to upgrade amp using existing wiring.

[Vipermann]

Update: After much research on subwoofers, I learned some things:

My Memphis Sub is POWERFUL - even with the stock amp (I'm guessing the stock amp puts out 25w x 6 channels, plus 160w x 1 sub channel at 2 ohms, or 80w at 4 ohms - just a guess).

But despite all the soundproofing and foam in the inside pockets of my stock Viper sub box, the there was some distortion on long, deep bass notes. The sub was getting starved for air in that small sub box. I thought about a sub amp with variable cross-overs, and thought about sealing the port in the stock sub box (not interested in a custom sub box). But I left the box port open, and tried a different fix.

I read an often overlooked 'fix' is reversing the phase/polarity (+/-) on subs. Seems polarity matching is most important with similar speakers, but can be different between main drivers and subs. Yes, this knocks the sub 'punch' down somewhat, but I tried it anyway. Bam! Much better. The sub was way too powerful for the rest of the speakers and the box when polarity was matched, but when reversed, the small stock sub box can better handle the new stronger sub. Now I get deep bass I can feel in my seat, and it is still louder than the old stock sub. And the distortion from the powerful sub starving for air is now gone. Overall, like it much better now than the factory set up.

Would only try this if you have a new powerful sub in the ported stock sub box.

[10 green]

Vipermann,
Do you have any instructions for removing the rear panel so i can access the sub

[dmillerc6]

Vipermann,
First, very nice work!
Quick question. I'm a new viper owner (North Texas) and need to address a bad rattle with the sub. Previous owner replaced with a kicker (thinking it may be a cvt654). I'm also thinking the grill is the stock one and don't want to break it. Can you tell me if the stock sub grill will pull off from the front or will I have to go in from the back removing the sub box, etc.? This is for a 2006 FE coupe. Thx

[V10Sidepipes]

Can you tell me if the stock sub grill will pull off from the front or will I have to go in from the back removing the sub box, etc.? This is for a 2006 FE coupe. Thx

The grill is attached to the waterfall piece from the back, so you will have to take that off to get to it.

[dmillerc6]

The grill is attached to the waterfall piece from the back, so you will have to take that off to get to it.

Thanks V10Sidepipes. I appreciate it.