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  1. #26
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dayton, OH
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    4,803
    Quote Originally Posted by pokeyl View Post
    New part installed all check good!
    Awesome! Glad to hear it was a (relatively) simple fix.

  2. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    Awesome! Glad to hear it was a (relatively) simple fix.
    Update, Still BAD, what next?

  3. #28
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    3,749
    A longer, more complete explanation of the current status might assist others who are trying to help you.

  4. #29
    Lockout works fine when the car is cold. After the car warms up it works 20% (malfunctions 80%)...

  5. #30
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario
    Posts
    323
    I agree with Steve that it sounds mechanical. The sideways motion has nothing to do with the synchros. As far as working prior to fluid change, old automatic transmissions hate having a fluid change if it has never been done before. Often they start slipping and not going into gear. Just saying. When you originally changed the fluid do you check for metal?

  6. #31
    Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dayton, OH
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    4,803
    Quote Originally Posted by pokeyl View Post
    Lockout works fine when the car is cold. After the car warms up it works 20% (malfunctions 80%)...
    That could be either electrical or mechanical - if it works fine cold, but not after the car is warm, that would tell me something is expanding somewhere and either breaking the electrical connection or physically preventing you from putting the car in reverse. If it is the lateral movement that is the issue, I'd look at the electrical connection. Follow the wires as far as you can back to their point of origin and see if anything fishy is going on. A multi-meter might also help - I'm sure someone with the service manual could tell you what the voltage needs to be when working properly.

    What are the mods on your car again? Do you have headers?

  7. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
    That could be either electrical or mechanical - if it works fine cold, but not after the car is warm, that would tell me something is expanding somewhere and either breaking the electrical connection or physically preventing you from putting the car in reverse. If it is the lateral movement that is the issue, I'd look at the electrical connection. Follow the wires as far as you can back to their point of origin and see if anything fishy is going on. A multi-meter might also help - I'm sure someone with the service manual could tell you what the voltage needs to be when working properly.

    What are the mods on your car again? Do you have headers?
    Fluid out looked good, no particles.

    No headers, 3 inch Mopar race exhaust, Roe mono-blade throttle, Roe tune, demon coils, plug wires/.055 gap.
    I have looked at the wires, I think the 1/4 skip shift may be bleeding some of the power on the 20AMP fuse.
    It just seems strange that the problem started when I changed fluid. I will have a chance to work the problem tomorrow. More to come

  8. #33
    Reseated the ECU connectors and the fuses. Seems to be working again for now.

  9. #34
    Tech Team

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Detriot
    Posts
    50
    It does sound like you have several things going on. Mechanically the reverse lock out works, lets you shift into reverse below about 5mph, or you will have to crash through the high effort spring all the time (35lbs effort)
    Does you car still have the skip shift working ? If it pin on the skip shift is bent from forcing a 1-2 it will cause hard shifting issues.

    John


 
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