96 gts coolant change

[Edward 96GTS]

hello
taking my 96 gts to a mechanic that usually works on classics. i need to change the coolant.
please advise
-current recommended coolant brand
- any new tricks to burp ie open heater
-basic technique since he has never done a viper.
tia
ed

[plumcrazy]

you should be able to search "burping" to find the same answer thats been given for years. (or call jonb or chuck tator) use the factory fill or any green antifreeze you want. its just a dodge..

[Edward 96GTS]

are the 5 yr coolants recommended?

[MacGyvers Mullet]

See here:

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/...COOLANT-CHANGE

I have followed these directions with great success. I also have a 96 and did not take out the block drain plugs nor the small plug on the thermostat housing. As long as you are sticking with the same style coolant and the coolant isn't 20 years old, then you are okay in not removing the block plugs.

Yes, you will see the temp go up towards 250*. Just shut it off, let it cool down just a tad, squeeze the upper radiator hose about 20 times, let it cool down more, power it back up and you should be good to go. More drives will get rid of any more temperature fluctuations. If your car has no leaks, it is self-burping over the course of a couple short drives.

EDIT: The five year coolant is just fine. Just stick with the same color coolant if you are not draining the block/system 100%

[ACR_Matt]

I used Mopar 68051212AB it's great. Just make sure all of the old green garbage is COMPLETELY flushed from the system. They don't mix. People make a big deal of flushing the coolant in these cars. I found it to be the easiest I've ever encountered. Just keep an eye on the overflow bottle and make sure your radiator cap is pressurizing correctly. It should purge itself IF everything is working properly.

[Edward 96GTS]

matt
did you switch to the orange stuff?

[ACR_Matt]

matt
did you switch to the orange stuff?

IMG_6934.jpg
Yes, it's the same 5 year coolant the gen III's use. My system had a lot of silica drop out, made the coolant reservoir look grey/tan. Flushed the entire system with distilled water until nothing but crystal clear water came out. (Pulling the block plugs wasn't nearly as bad as I've read about it being) Took 5 or 6 flush cycles if I remember correctly. Well worth the trouble imo.

[AZTVR]

I've read many posts by Tom, who posted quite often about coolant and oils on the old club forums. He appeared to have the background necessary to make informed posts. He recommended switching from the old green coolant with silicate additive, and going to one of the newer long life coolants.

[My98RT10]

I am still running the green stuff, may switch to the 5 years formulation later but I am worried to get the green stuff out completely...

So far, I have no issues, cooling system works perfectly (knock on wood) ...

[LifeIsGood]

Peak Global Lifetime.

More info...

How to burp cooling system??

[ViperTim]

Funny how people are so in to this coolant thing.
I just pick up whatever coolant is nearest and cheapest, pour it in and off I go.

[LifeIsGood]

Funny how people are so in to this coolant thing.
I just pick up whatever coolant is nearest and cheapest, pour it in and off I go.

I'm glad that's working out for you. Coolant is cheap...period. Choosing the one that best fits your needs is important to some, clearly not to you. The earlier GEN viper engines run hot and the cooling systems are close to capacity especially in warmer regions. I live in Phoenix, Arizona where temperatures reach into the 120s so I pay attention to what fluids I'm putting in my viper. I'm not familiar with Sweden's climate, but my perception would be it's not real hot there.

[ViperTim]

I'm glad that's working out for you. Coolant is cheap...period. Choosing the one that best fits your needs is important to some, clearly not to you. The earlier GEN viper engines run hot and the cooling systems are close to capacity especially in warmer regions. I live in Phoenix, Arizona where temperatures reach into the 120s so I pay attention to what fluids I'm putting in my viper. I'm not familiar with Sweden's climate, but my perception would be it's not real hot there.

Let's just say it's nowhere close to Arizona in temperatures!
I drain my coolant so often on my cars (as I break them all the time) that it would be a financial suicide to have some exclusive coolant. Cheaper to buy a better radiator and/or better fans.
And easier

[AZTVR]

Funny how people are so in to this coolant thing.
I just pick up whatever coolant is nearest and cheapest, pour it in and off I go.

Do you do the same with motor oil? I will PM you some links on discussion of why the new technology coolant is better than the old tech coolant.

[ViperTim]

Do you do the same with motor oil? I will PM you some links on discussion of why the new technology coolant is better than the old tech coolant.

Engine oil is a lubricant. Where the specifications does a whole lot of difference.
Though in my honest opinion, why wouldn't cheap engine oil work? 10-w40 from Mobil1 vs 10-w40 from a low price (but still decent) brand in a streetcar with a stock engine, I don't see why the cheap would NOT work. Maybe not as good, Maybe it's even better! I don't know, but I buy Mobil1.
Coolant, not so much in my opinion. I'm no scientist but the cheapest available coolant has always worked for me so I find no reason to change that routine.
Please do PM. I'm interested.
I've seen discussions about Evans Coolant but the price does not justify it. Especially as I said, when I drain the coolant often on my car.
My record on my supercharged thunderbird is 5 times. In one weekend.

[AZTVR]

Engine oil is a lubricant. Where the specifications does a whole lot of difference.
Though in my honest opinion, why wouldn't cheap engine oil work? 10-w40 from Mobil1 vs 10-w40 from a low price (but still decent) brand in a streetcar with a stock engine, I don't see why the cheap would NOT work. Maybe not as good, Maybe it's even better! I don't know, but I buy Mobil1.
Coolant, not so much in my opinion. I'm no scientist but the cheapest available coolant has always worked for me so I find no reason to change that routine.

As I interpret the posts, the scientific discussion about coolants involves the significantly different chemistry of the original green antifreeze that uses Silicate additives and the new OAT (Organic Acid Technology) and HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) antifreeze, The way that their additive packages work are not similar. My specialty is electronics, so, I am basing my choice on the input of someone whose specialty is automotive fluids. The description of how the different coolants work makes me believe that the OAT fluid is the way to go.

I have not researched Evans coolant.

[Geronimo]

Funny how people are so in to this coolant thing.
I just pick up whatever coolant is nearest and cheapest, pour it in and off I go.

I use the most expensive and never have to worry about clogged Rad, failed water pumps heater cores.

[ViperTim]

I use the most expensive and never have to worry about clogged Rad, failed water pumps heater cores.

I use the cheapest and neither do I worry about that

Anyways, just my 2 cents.

[Geronimo]

I use the cheapest and neither do I worry about that

Anyways, just my 2 cents.

If you flush every 3 years ok. Most don't and you see the thread-" my car is overheating blah blah blah" LOl I use Evans in everything for probably 20 years now.

[ViperTim]

If you flush every 3 years ok. Most don't and you see the thread-" my car is overheating blah blah blah" LOl I use Evans in everything for probably 20 years now.

Wait a minute, can one really drive a car for 3 years without breaking it? Or modify it?
Impossible!

[Kari_Lindstrom]

Peak Global Life Time is reusable and is therefore in my opinion the cheapest coolant on the market.

[Fatboy 18]

If your top and bottom Rad hoses have never been changed, I would purchase new ones.

I changed out my coolant last year when replacing the thermostat, after cleaning everything up and putting things back together, I took the car out and the top hose burst where the spring clamp had been, threw new coolant everywhere all over the nice clean engine bay
Also had to get the car recovered home.
So if you think about it a 1996 car, the rubber hoses could be 21yrs old!

[01sapphirebob]

Some useful info in here too.

https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ain-and-Fill-s

[My98RT10]

Here's mine ;-)

[ACR_Matt]

Here's mine ;-)

I sure wish mine had looked that good when I flushed mine! I'd bet it had never been changed or at least had been much longer than 3 years. IMG_6931.jpg.