DSE Grade 5 6AL 4V Forged Titanium Wheel Studs

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Gauging interest in titanium wheel studs. These would be the same forged Grade 5 6AL-4V Ti as the open ended lug nuts with the same teflon infused coating.

Target price $325 for a set of 25 and weight savings of ~2 lbs total. Weight savings from OEM with the DSE Ti lug nuts would be ~3.4lbs or ~0.85lbs per corner. Like the lug nuts they fit all Vipers.

Thanks
Doug

[ViperGeorge]

Are the studs as strong or stronger than the OEM ones? I've not had to change a stud on the Gen 5 yet but on my old Gen 4 you had to remove the hub, that was a pain. How do the Gen 5 studs change out?

[Nambo]

Doug,

Would these be extended length wheel studs or OEM length?

JD

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Are the studs as strong or stronger than the OEM ones? I've not had to change a stud on the Gen 5 yet but on my old Gen 4 you had to remove the hub, that was a pain. How do the Gen 5 studs change out?

I have not changed them yet myself but they will be the same design as OEM as far as pressing them in. Not sure if the hubs need to come off.

Edit: They will be stronger in strength than OEM and in addition the Teflon coating will mitigate galling and seized nuts.

Doug,

Would these be extended length wheel studs or OEM length?

JD

I am looking into both OEM and extended length options.

[Snorman]

Went through 2 stock wheel studs already. They aren't very durable.
S.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Went through 2 stock wheel studs already. They aren't very durable.
S.

Glad you mentioned this, upon further investigation they indeed are. I was overestimating the OEM material. I had assumed the marking on the OEM stud was Grade 8 but it is actually 8.8, meaning class 8.8.

That being the case these Ti studs will be a good deal stronger than the OEM ones, comparable to a Class 10.9 or Grade 8 bolt vs the OEM Class 8.8 or Grade 5.

I also wonder if some of the breakage has to do with galling, using an impact wrench, etc. I have seen a few threads where the nuts are stuck on. For those cases the Teflon coating would mitigate this issue. What is your theory as to why they broke?

[stradman]

I'm in. Although not had problem with existing studs so far despite, about a dozen hard track days so far. Lug nuts working a treat!

[OTHER SNAKE OWNER]

I'd be in for a set. Not sure of staying OEM length or would need longer, but much like your other offerings, you will have a market being that you produce/sell quality parts and your customer service is outstanding!

[Simms]

I'm leaning towards the longer version.

[Tay]

I have not changed them yet myself but they will be the same design as OEM as far as pressing them in. Not sure if the hubs need to come off.

Edit: They will be stronger in strength than OEM and in addition the Teflon coating will mitigate galling and seized nuts.

I am looking into both OEM and extended length options.

Great idea! I would be interested in an extended version.

[Snorman]

Glad you mentioned this, upon further investigation they indeed are. I was overestimating the OEM material. I had assumed the marking on the OEM stud was Grade 8 but it is actually 8.8, meaning class 8.8.

That being the case these Ti studs will be a good deal stronger than the OEM ones, comparable to a Class 10.9 or Grade 8 bolt vs the OEM Class 8.8 or Grade 5.

I also wonder if some of the breakage has to do with galling, using an impact wrench, etc. I have seen a few threads where the nuts are stuck on. For those cases the Teflon coating would mitigate this issue. What is your theory as to why they broke?

I think they are soft and susceptible to the threads deforming easily, especially when they are repeatedly heat cycled on-track and "abused" with repeated tire changes. I've lost track, but have been through a lot of tires since last year. Interestingly, both of my broken studs were on the rear (one right one left).

I've actually started being very careful using my cordless impact. I hand loosen them, then only use the impact to do the rest, and I hand tighten them and barely use the impact then torque them.

lol...a metric 8.8 is a medium duty fastener.
S.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I think they are soft and susceptible to the threads deforming easily, especially when they are repeatedly heat cycled on-track and "abused" with repeated tire changes. I've lost track, but have been through a lot of tires since last year. Interestingly, both of my broken studs were on the rear (one right one left).

I've actually started being very careful using my cordless impact. I hand loosen them, then only use the impact to do the rest, and I hand tighten them and barely use the impact then torque them.

lol...a metric 8.8 is a medium duty fastener.
S.

Not a reference to you but in general galling occurs easier with speed and heat. If that is happening (causing the nuts to stick to the studs) a tire change at the track with hot brakes / wheels and a cordless or pneumatic tool would increase the odds of this. Using the tool at a slower speed or just doing it by hand would help in that case.

For those interested in extended studs, I was thinking 1/2" extra, would this be sufficient?

Thanks
Doug

[Snorman]

Yeah, but when you have an hour between sessions, you sometimes don't have much choice.
Case in point...I corded an inner front right tire at Sebring a few weeks ago. That leaves me less than an hour to change tires, fuel the car, suit up and be back out next session. So you can let the car cool a little, but it's still going to be pretty hot after 15-20 minutes.
Yeah, I've been trying to use the cordless impact less. But at the track you just want to get done and those damn lugs are hot. The outside edges of my rotors (iron) and the pad backing plates are white from the heat.
S.

[Racingswh]

So I lost 5 already. 3 left front, 2 left rear. They did replace them under warranty as well as the entore differential unit.

That said if they are stronger than OEM I am in for a set for sure.

[Racingswh]

Hubs don't have to come off. Smack them out. Pull them through.

Standard length is fine for me. Enough thread already and have had no issues at all with any lug nuts coming loose once torqued.

[Nambo]

Not a reference to you but in general galling occurs easier with speed and heat. If that is happening (causing the nuts to stick to the studs) a tire change at the track with hot brakes / wheels and a cordless or pneumatic tool would increase the odds of this. Using the tool at a slower speed or just doing it by hand would help in that case.

For those interested in extended studs, I was thinking 1/2" extra, would this be sufficient?

Thanks
Doug

Doug,

I would be interested in a 3” stud for track use.

JD

[ViperGeorge]

Hubs don't have to come off. Smack them out. Pull them through.

Standard length is fine for me. Enough thread already and have had no issues at all with any lug nuts coming loose once torqued.

Then a Gen 5 must be different than a Gen 4. There is an indentation on a Gen 4 where it looks like the studs should come out the back and clear the hub and spindle but there was no way I could get a stud through (at least on the front, I never had to do a rear). The service manual for a Gen 4 says remove the hub. I don't have a manual yet for my Gen 5s and I have not yet had to change a stud.

[DZnutz]

I like the idea of a 1/2" longer stud to safely run spacers

[ek1]

Yeah, but when you have an hour between sessions, you sometimes don't have much choice.
Case in point...I corded an inner front right tire at Sebring a few weeks ago. That leaves me less than an hour to change tires, fuel the car, suit up and be back out next session. So you can let the car cool a little, but it's still going to be pretty hot after 15-20 minutes.
Yeah, I've been trying to use the cordless impact less. But at the track you just want to get done and those damn lugs are hot. The outside edges of my rotors (iron) and the pad backing plates are white from the heat.
S.

I always remove lug nuts with an impact. I dont think it damages studs in any way. I then start them by hand, set the impact to a very low torque, tighten the nuts, then set the car down and use the torque wrench to tighten the nuts. So far so good.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

I’m going to produce 3 versions, stock (2”), 2.5”, and 3”. Same forging and will just machine to length.

Doug

[Nambo]

I’m going to produce 3 versions, stock (2”), 2.5”, and 3”. Same forging and will just machine to length.

Doug

In for a set of the 3” version Doug.

[SSGNRDZ_28]

Pricing is a little more defined now, $435 for OEM length, $460 for 2.5”, $530 for 3”. Let me know if there’s still an interest. This is for a set of 25 coated. Apologies for the delay I’ve been swamped lately.

Doug

[DZnutz]

Hey Doug,

If you are just producing them in 3" and then machining down for shorter lengths then why is the 3" more expensive than the other 2?

[SSGNRDZ_28]

We will be using bar stock and then machine and thread from there. The longer the stud the more machining, material, and coating.

The coating is quite expensive especially in this color, looking into options there. If the nuts are coated the studs don’t necessarily need to be. So there’s an opportunity to save some cost.

Edit: not coating the studs saves about $100 per set.

Doug

[DZnutz]

Makes perfect sense Doug, for some reason I thought you were machining down finished studs, not the raw bar... and then proceeding to machining. Thanks

Is there a number I can call you at?