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  1. #26
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    What colour will they be?

    I'm interested. Do you still have the ti lug nuts?

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by DZnutz View Post
    Makes perfect sense Doug, for some reason I thought you were machining down finished studs, not the raw bar... and then proceeding to machining. Thanks

    Is there a number I can call you at?
    When Doug makes something, just buy it! Don't question it!

  3. #28
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    657D6B26-B2DD-4D96-93E1-58A4A25F2F18.jpeg
    2DDDCACE-6416-4000-8D8D-1509EDB9942D.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by SharpMan View Post
    What colour will they be?

    I'm interested. Do you still have the ti lug nuts?
    Nuts are in stock and the color is a dark gray. If not coated the color would just be bare Ti. Photo for contrast.


    Quote Originally Posted by Arizona Vipers View Post
    When Doug makes something, just buy it! Don't question it!
    Haha thanks I think this is my new marketing slogan.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by DZnutz View Post
    Makes perfect sense Doug, for some reason I thought you were machining down finished studs, not the raw bar... and then proceeding to machining. Thanks

    Is there a number I can call you at?
    Sent you a PM. Thanks

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    Then a Gen 5 must be different than a Gen 4. There is an indentation on a Gen 4 where it looks like the studs should come out the back and clear the hub and spindle but there was no way I could get a stud through (at least on the front, I never had to do a rear). The service manual for a Gen 4 says remove the hub. I don't have a manual yet for my Gen 5s and I have not yet had to change a stud.
    I bought this tool: http://www.freedomracing.com/wheel-s...j-45270-i.html and modified it as shown to clear the hub. I'm sure you could hammer them out but wanted to go this route to be safe. Studs will come out easily front and rear on the car. I may offer rental of this tool (core charge that is refunded when the tool is returned). I have a first run of OEM length on the way, not coated, will be $325 a set of 25. I will ensure they press in OK and see how they work.

    IMG_6526.jpg

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSGNRDZ_28 View Post
    I bought this tool: http://www.freedomracing.com/wheel-s...j-45270-i.html and modified it as shown to clear the hub. I'm sure you could hammer them out but wanted to go this route to be safe. Studs will come out easily front and rear on the car. I may offer rental of this tool (core charge that is refunded when the tool is returned). I have a first run of OEM length on the way, not coated, will be $325 a set of 25. I will ensure they press in OK and see how they work.

    IMG_6526.jpg
    I could hammer the stud loose but could not get the back side shoulder of the stud to clear. There was no way to remove it without removing the hub. Maybe the Gen 5 is different??

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    I could hammer the stud loose but could not get the back side shoulder of the stud to clear. There was no way to remove it without removing the hub. Maybe the Gen 5 is different??
    Yes, I see your point clearance looks borderline on the front. I think worst case you’ll have to loosen the hub to gain space but I don’t think you’ll have to take it all the way off. So procedure in theory would be press studs lose and then loosen hub as needed to allow them to clear.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snorman View Post
    Went through 2 stock wheel studs already. They aren't very durable.
    S.
    What happened? Did they crack on track? What tires were you running? How many broke? Which corner?

  8. #33
    sharmut
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    Hi Doug,

    Getting ready to order replacement wheel bearings (rears show some seepage) soon and would be a good time to install your wheel studs. Checking in to see how far out before the wheel studs are ready for purchase.

  9. #34
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    Right now I am fine tuning the knurling, it’s difficult to match Ti and steel exactly. As soon as that is done I can go into production, it will be more than a few weeks out.

  10. #35
    sharmut
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    Appreciate the update and look forward to the product.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharmut View Post
    Hi Doug,

    Getting ready to order replacement wheel bearings (rears show some seepage) soon and would be a good time to install your wheel studs. Checking in to see how far out before the wheel studs are ready for purchase.
    How many miles are on your car?

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arizona Vipers View Post
    How many miles are on your car?
    17k miles. In 2016 is when it saw more track time (~12 days year). The rear bearings do no exhibit noise or play. Just playing it safe.
    Next time I get the car in the air, will take PICs of the inside knuckle behind the hub, to show the build up.

  13. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Arizona Vipers View Post
    What happened? Did they crack on track? What tires were you running? How many broke? Which corner?
    Sorry, just saw this.
    It's been three rear studs. Another one a weekend or two after I posted that.
    I'm pretty anal about hand threading lug nuts on when swapping wheels/tires. So they weren't cross threaded going on. However, when swapping wheels, after about 1/4 turn it was obvious the studs were either deformed or cross threaded when the lug was coming off. There was no choice but to snap the stud with a breaker bar.
    Before the fall season starts in Florida, I'll be running extended and hardened wheel studs and will probably start running these lugs.

    And I will NEVER go to the track again without 2 full sets of front Kumhos.
    S.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snorman View Post
    Sorry, just saw this.
    It's been three rear studs. Another one a weekend or two after I posted that.
    I'm pretty anal about hand threading lug nuts on when swapping wheels/tires. So they weren't cross threaded going on. However, when swapping wheels, after about 1/4 turn it was obvious the studs were either deformed or cross threaded when the lug was coming off. There was no choice but to snap the stud with a breaker bar.
    Before the fall season starts in Florida, I'll be running extended and hardened wheel studs and will probably start running these lugs.

    And I will NEVER go to the track again without 2 full sets of front Kumhos.
    S.
    I know Nemesis on here has broken wheel studs on the track. I never have had any issues. I might get these titanium ones just to save weight.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arizona Vipers View Post
    I know Nemesis on here has broken wheel studs on the track. I never have had any issues. I might get these titanium ones just to save weight.
    You, save weight, no way. haha

  16. #41
    To correct my post...it was two rears and a front. The rears are a pretty straightforward replacement. But the front hub has to come off to change front wheel studs.
    S.

  17. #42
    sharmut
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    Anyone have experience with this tool? Seems like an inexpensive way to insure the new studs are seated straight.

    https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...d+remover+tool

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharmut View Post
    Anyone have experience with this tool? Seems like an inexpensive way to insure the new studs are seated straight.

    https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...d+remover+tool
    I used that lisle tool to pull studs in, works great, make sure you have a light lubricant on the splines when you pull them in. Also have some sacrificial wheel nuts from a mustang on hand!

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redx View Post
    I used that lisle tool to pull studs in, works great, make sure you have a light lubricant on the splines when you pull them in. Also have some sacrificial wheel nuts from a mustang on hand!
    Thank you, they don't list the opening diameter, uncertain if large enough to insert the 1/2" stud.

  20. #45
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    Any update on the titanium studs Doug?

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharmut View Post
    Anyone have experience with this tool? Seems like an inexpensive way to insure the new studs are seated straight.

    https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-W...d+remover+tool
    There is a puller available for rent from AutoZone. I got it and modified it and then obviously just kept it. It was 20 bucks

  22. #47
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    You can just stack up some washers or put a nut that is bigger over the stud then use the lug nut to pull it through.

  23. #48
    sharmut
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    You can just stack up some washers or put a nut that is bigger over the stud then use the lug nut to pull it through.
    Thanks, bought some very thick wheel spacers with the matching bolt pattern. This would allow the studs to be pulled into position and aligned.
    What did you use to remove the old studs, short of using a hammer?

  24. #49
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    The puller. You go around the hub and align the puller and try to get concentric to the stud head and then crank down on each stud. They pop off pretty easily once you crank down with a 1/2” ratcheting wrench. When putting the new ones on, you insert and then you can choose your method. I chose to stack up washers and then used one of the old lugs I had to tighten with an impact. The stud will pull flat against the back of the hub.

  25. #50
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    Design is finalized and we are in production. Will be getting them coated as well.

    Doug

    EAA12E84-880F-44EA-99C0-08DBD9CDD4F0.jpg


 
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