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  1. #1

    Gen V GTC adding oil and checking oil

    I have searched the forum for the basics on checking oil and adding oil with no results. I have checked the dipstick but it confuses me because there is not a clear line of oil like my other cars, it goes up on one side but not across it.. I don't change my own oil nor do I want to, I need help with keeping up between oil changes and adding oil. I have read on some post that you need to run it and check within a few minutes, what is the best method.

  2. #2
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    My philosophy is to always check the oil level in consistent conditions, regardless of how the manual says to check it. I get my oil changed at my dealer. And I know what the oil level reads in my garage on the next day when I pull the dipstick the first time I look (I note first because subsequent pulls of the stock can smear oil on it). So all measurements for me are based on that level. When (not if) if looks low between changes I add oil to that mark.

    The notion of checking oil after the engine is warm is ludicrous to me because getting a solid reading is impossible. But I am 100% certain that checking the oil after it’s sat overnight I can compare THAT against the level I know is ok after the dealer changes it.

  3. #3
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    ^^^this^^^ Waterloo be vigilant in checking oil, I too always check oil cold & overnight, that way most all of the oil has left the heads, oil galleys and rods. I check oil and tire pressures every time before taking her out for a run...JM2C

  4. #4
    The reason the engineers want you to check it warm is so there still is some in the engine. They want full in the pan, plus in the engine. I check it right after shutdown, within 5 minutes, on my flat garage floor. Like said above, whatever method you choose, do it the same every time, for apples to apples comparison.

  5. #5
    I check it cold. As mentioned above if you know where the proper level should be and check under the same conditions than any variation will be obvious. Mine is about an 1/8th to 3/16th inch above the full line when cold. When warm it is even or marginally below the full line. Much easier to check it cold as there is a clear definitive line.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    I check it cold. As mentioned above if you know where the proper level should be and check under the same conditions than any variation will be obvious. Mine is about an 1/8th to 3/16th inch above the full line when cold. When warm it is even or marginally below the full line. Much easier to check it cold as there is a clear definitive line.
    You are 100% correct, this is by far the best method.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by jaxtk View Post
    You are 100% correct, this is by far the best method.
    I'm not being sarcastic but if this is the best method then why didn't FCA just raise the line 3/16 and inform to check when cold. To agree with others, if you check your oil in the same manner/conditions every time you can establish where your proper benchmark should be. Which I realize that almost contradicts my first sentence, lol.

  8. #8
    I think FCA reason is: full cold is probably full. However, with the oil issue the cars have, having us be full when warm will ensure a very slight overfill, to ensure some margin of safety perhaps. My opinion. They want 11 quarts in the pan, plus what is in the engine and cooler.

  9. #9
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    Jeeze this must be the 10th thread on checking oil in a Gen 5. I had previously checked with the engineer that designed the oiling system. Either believe the engineer or not but I think he should know what the correct method is. Here's what he said:

    “So like we discussed – the 15MY has the updated dipstick to decrease the likelihood of wiping (has the s-bend in it) – so it should be easier to read on a 15MY and later vs. previous years.

    "The method you’ve mentioned (where the vehicle is warmed then sits for 5 minutes before checking the oil) is definitely the best method and you’re right, that is exactly what is in the manual. The reasoning behind it is that the engine will trap oil in galleries, components, etc and as you let the engine sit, that oil eventually drains down to the pan. It is a large engine and a large amount of oil can be left in the engine after shutdown. Thus showing higher on the stick when your car sits for a while. Having the warm oil level at the full mark 5 minutes after turning the car off ensures that there is the correct amount of oil in the car.

    To answer your other question – it’s certainly reasonable to see large swings in oil level using those two methods to check the level. I would even recommend checking it within 1 minute of the 5 minute mark after shutting the car off – waiting to 10 minutes would probably show a completely different reading.

    Additional Note: It says this in the manual, but be sure to park on level ground – not doing that can change the oil level dramatically as well.”

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    Jeeze this must be the 10th thread on checking oil in a Gen 5. I had previously checked with the engineer that designed the oiling system. Either believe the engineer or not but I think he should know what the correct method is. Here's what he said:

    “So like we discussed – the 15MY has the updated dipstick to decrease the likelihood of wiping (has the s-bend in it) – so it should be easier to read on a 15MY and later vs. previous years.

    "The method you’ve mentioned (where the vehicle is warmed then sits for 5 minutes before checking the oil) is definitely the best method and you’re right, that is exactly what is in the manual. The reasoning behind it is that the engine will trap oil in galleries, components, etc and as you let the engine sit, that oil eventually drains down to the pan. It is a large engine and a large amount of oil can be left in the engine after shutdown. Thus showing higher on the stick when your car sits for a while. Having the warm oil level at the full mark 5 minutes after turning the car off ensures that there is the correct amount of oil in the car.

    To answer your other question – it’s certainly reasonable to see large swings in oil level using those two methods to check the level. I would even recommend checking it within 1 minute of the 5 minute mark after shutting the car off – waiting to 10 minutes would probably show a completely different reading.

    Additional Note: It says this in the manual, but be sure to park on level ground – not doing that can change the oil level dramatically as well.”
    Some cars may experience drain back, which I’m guessing is why they wrote the manual the way they did, but my car reads identical whether it’s checked per the manual, or dead cold. My theory is some cars experience drain back from the oil cooler, which can make the reading falsely high when cold, my car however has never experienced this. Just my $.02.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dewilmoth View Post
    Some cars may experience drain back, which I’m guessing is why they wrote the manual the way they did, but my car reads identical whether it’s checked per the manual, or dead cold. My theory is some cars experience drain back from the oil cooler, which can make the reading falsely high when cold, my car however has never experienced this. Just my $.02.
    On my 2015 TA 2.0 the oil level would vary A LOT from cold to hot. The cold level would be about 1 inch higher on the stick than if checked right after engine shutdown. That is why I reached out to a friend at SRT for a definitive answer on checking the oil.

    Also note the oil stick was redesigned sometime in 2014. Later 14s have the newer dipstick while older 14s and 13s have the old design. You can tell the difference by looking at how the yellow ring sits when the stick is fully seated. If the yellow ring (the one that has Engine printed on top) is sitting parallel to the windshield you have the new stick. If it sits at a 45 degree angle to the windshield you have the old stick. By the way when the stick is put in properly you should be able to read Engine on the yellow ring from the front of the car. If it is upside down when viewed from the front you have it installed 180 degree out of place.
    Last edited by ViperGeorge; 10-22-2017 at 03:03 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperGeorge View Post
    On my 2015 TA 2.0 the oil level would vary A LOT from cold to hot. The cold level would be about 1 inch higher on the stick than if checked right after engine shutdown. That is why I reached out to a friend at SRT for a definitive answer on checking the oil.

    Also note the oil stick was redesigned sometime in 2014. Later 14s have the newer dipstick while older 14s and 13s have the old design. You can tell the difference by looking at how the yellow ring sits when the stick is fully seated. If the yellow ring (the one that has Engine printed on top) is sitting parallel to the windshield you have the new stick. If it sits at a 45 degree angle to the windshield you have the old stick. By the way when the stick is put in properly you should be able to read Engine on the yellow ring from the front of the car. If it is upside down when viewed from the front you have it installed 180 degree out of place.
    Interesting as my 13 GTS has the newer dipstick you mention above and it was built in either July or Aug 13, as I recall it.
    Also I always placed the dipstick with the 'engine' toward the driver...thinking that was correct.
    Last edited by LmeaViper; 10-23-2017 at 09:00 PM.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by dewilmoth View Post
    Some cars may experience drain back, which I’m guessing is why they wrote the manual the way they did, but my car reads identical whether it’s checked per the manual, or dead cold. My theory is some cars experience drain back from the oil cooler, which can make the reading falsely high when cold, my car however has never experienced this. Just my $.02.
    same here.. however our cars are both at sea level in north florida. it might be a different story in denver on a cold morning.

  14. #14
    I've asked in other oil threads, but never received a real answer. On the early dipstick (13-14) is the hash area a 1 or 2 quart range from top to bottom?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by swexlin View Post
    I've asked in other oil threads, but never received a real answer. On the early dipstick (13-14) is the hash area a 1 or 2 quart range from top to bottom?
    Can you take a pic of your dipstick as I am curious how different yours is compared to mine.
    Last edited by LmeaViper; 10-23-2017 at 08:59 PM.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by LmeaViper View Post
    Can you take a pic of your dipstick.
    I don't know if that question violates forum guidelines.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by theviper View Post
    I don't know if that question violates forum guidelines.
    I know it sounds bad...but hey a guys gotta ask

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by LmeaViper View Post
    I know it sounds bad...but hey a guys gotta ask
    I have a list of jokes, puns, and one liners I could post, but I'm pretty sure some of them would violate the forum guidelines!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by LmeaViper View Post
    I know it sounds bad...but hey a guys gotta ask
    This definitely was good for a LMAO moment.

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by LmeaViper View Post
    Can you take a pic of your dipstick as I am curious how different yours is compared to mine.
    LOL! Next time I check oil, I'll take one!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRT_BluByU View Post
    same here.. however our cars are both at sea level in north florida. it might be a different story in denver on a cold morning.
    Great point.

  22. #22
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    the oil coolers and system have oil capacity (almost 2 quarts worth) and they want you to check the oil warmed up to account for this. I think you put the dipstick back with the hash marks facing the engine so you dont get the smear on the hash mark side

  23. #23
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    Does anyone know the reasoning of not putting a low oil sensor in our cars. With all the known oil starvation issues caused by the initial engine break in.

    This would never be an issue if there wasn't such a big disconnect between the dealer and the new buyer where the dealer doesn't tell the new owners they MUST monitor the oil level every 1000 miles or so for the first 6000 miles or so.

    Having the low oil sensor would have saved so many motors.
    Last edited by TomekViperGTS; 04-23-2020 at 01:36 PM.

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by TomekViperGTS View Post
    Does anyone know the reasoning of not putting a low oil sensor in our cars. With all the known oil starvation issues caused by the initial engine break in.

    This would never be an issue if there wasn't such a big disconnect between the dealer and the new buyer where the dealer doesn't tell the new owners they MUST monitor the oil level every 1000 miles or so for the first 6000 miles or so.

    Having the low oil sensor would have saved so many motors.
    Two reasons:
    1. cost
    2. very flat shallow pan

    At least that's always been what I've seen floated for reasons.

  25. #25
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    oil level sensors are a PITA, just look at the german cars. Turns checking oil into a 10 minute affair vs a dipstick


 
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