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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by sadil View Post
    Looking beyond the sexy curves, we got a mild update from Gen IV. Oil sensor would require a significant amount of money for development and would be low on the priority list. It's cheaper to replace engines.
    And they didn't even know of the debris issue with engines when the launched the Gen 5. It was debris that caused a lot of the issues for which warranty replacements were done. The debris issue only showed up later after a lot of 13 and 14s were already on the road. The other factor, I believe, that contributed to engine failure is that many Viper owners ran their cars low on oil. That is their own fault.

  2. #27
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    be careful what you wish for, for those who want an electronic oil sensor. Almost a 7 minute video of how to check the oil with an electronic oil level sensor, and its even fast forwarded in parts of the video because it takes up to 3 minutes to detect the oil level after you add some, which you have to add 1qt at a time then wait another 3 minutes every time. Great you just spent 20 minutes checking your oil


  3. #28
    Don't need a sensor to tell you your exact oil level. You can use the dipstick for that.
    But a sensor to tell you that the oil level is dangerously low before you grenade the motor might have saved a lot of engines.

  4. #29
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    Not sure if anyone already mentioned to add extra oil in this thread . Oil starvation is a big problem on factory pan vipers all of us know that. We have always added and extra quart of oil to combat the problem of oil starvation especially vipers run at the track. The extra quart is a very old racer trick that many of us have used over the years for engines with known oil starvation problems. Bondurant did the extra quart of oil on all their school vipers to help the starvation problem. The extra oil is not the best solution but its much cheaper then our dry sump system, or our racing oil pan.

  5. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    Not sure if anyone already mentioned to add extra oil in this thread . Oil starvation is a big problem on factory pan vipers all of us know that. We have always added and extra quart of oil to combat the problem of oil starvation especially vipers run at the track. The extra quart is a very old racer trick that many of us have used over the years for engines with known oil starvation problems. Bondurant did the extra quart of oil on all their school vipers to help the starvation problem. The extra oil is not the best solution but its much cheaper then our dry sump system, or our racing oil pan.
    Are there not concerns of getting the crank into the oil and aerating it?

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by camarochevy1970 View Post
    Are there not concerns of getting the crank into the oil and aerating it?
    Yes aerating is always a concern. Never had a problem with the viper motors aerating with the extra oil. Other motors, small blocks and big blocks yes aerating has always been a problem I bet Im not telling you anything you dont already know camarochevy1970 . The extra oil in the viper is not the solution to the problem its more of a band aid, not perfect but helps

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    Not sure if anyone already mentioned to add extra oil in this thread . Oil starvation is a big problem on factory pan vipers all of us know that. We have always added and extra quart of oil to combat the problem of oil starvation especially vipers run at the track. The extra quart is a very old racer trick that many of us have used over the years for engines with known oil starvation problems. Bondurant did the extra quart of oil on all their school vipers to help the starvation problem. The extra oil is not the best solution but its much cheaper then our dry sump system, or our racing oil pan.
    Yip, I used to do this with my old Gen 3 years ago, when tracking it. Now those had a real problem with oil starvation on a road course.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperJon View Post
    Don't need a sensor to tell you your exact oil level. You can use the dipstick for that.
    But a sensor to tell you that the oil level is dangerously low before you grenade the motor might have saved a lot of engines.
    Details on said oil pan?

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by kriskyk View Post
    Details on said oil pan?
    road race pan, all aluminum installs just like factory pan. Extra 1.5 quarts of oil, proper sump design for oil pick up, lowers chance for oil starvation in racing applications and motors with basic modifications. Less expensive alternative to our dry sump system. Not available until late summer. We release all our viper parts in our vendor sponsor forum

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    road race pan, all aluminum installs just like factory pan. Extra 1.5 quarts of oil, proper sump design for oil pick up, lowers chance for oil starvation in racing applications and motors with basic modifications. Less expensive alternative to our dry sump system. Not available until late summer. We release all our viper parts in our vendor sponsor forum
    Subscribed for group buy...

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    road race pan, all aluminum installs just like factory pan. Extra 1.5 quarts of oil, proper sump design for oil pick up, lowers chance for oil starvation in racing applications and motors with basic modifications. Less expensive alternative to our dry sump system. Not available until late summer. We release all our viper parts in our vendor sponsor forum
    We are waiting

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by TKO MOTORSPORTS TEAM View Post
    road race pan, all aluminum installs just like factory pan. Extra 1.5 quarts of oil, proper sump design for oil pick up, lowers chance for oil starvation in racing applications and motors with basic modifications. Less expensive alternative to our dry sump system. Not available until late summer. We release all our viper parts in our vendor sponsor forum
    Does it sit lower and closer to the road?

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by kriskyk View Post
    We are waiting
    I apologize for the late response we have been busy.

    Space truckin when our pan becomes available email me and we can figure something out.

    Pan does not sit lower then chassis frame rail so no ground clearance problems. Our pan is same height as factory oil pan. We also added turbo drain backs for the turbo viper people.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by LmeaViper View Post
    I know it sounds bad...but hey a guys gotta ask
    This definitely was good for a LMAO moment.

  15. #40
    So how would you read this dipstick? I would say full, but I don't know why oil isn't going entirely to the edge of the dipstick


    IMG_20200525_073844.jpgIMG_20200525_073831.jpg

  16. #41
    Looks full to my eye.

  17. #42
    You see what I mean about the oil not being on that one edge though right?

  18. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by camarochevy1970 View Post
    You see what I mean about the oil not being on that one edge though right?
    Yes, these sticks are tricky. Mine never looks the same twice!

  19. #44
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    I check my oil both hot and cold and have established correlation over time (a few checks). Being on a level surface is important also.

    My Cayenne S had no dipstick. You also had to bring the oil temp up to operating temp before the sensor would tell you if the oil level was good. You definitely had to count the empty oil jugs when you did your oil change of 10 quarts. This on a $30K engine as well.
    Last edited by quickster2; 05-25-2020 at 08:55 AM.

  20. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by quickster2 View Post
    I check my oil both hot and cold and have established correlation over time (a few checks). Being on a level surface is important also.
    Right, normally I check hot and cold as well. That edge not having oil on it is messing with me. I don't understand how a stick submerged in oil can come out with an edge not covered

  21. #46
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    It's been said before however I'll repeat a procedure that has worked for myself.
    1. Drain your oil and change filter.
    2. Add 11 quarts of oil. (using some to fill the new filter before installing)
    3. start and run engine.
    4. check dip stick however you like, your reading will be different on each side of stick.
    5. now you know where full is on your dip stick.
    As long as you do this in a consistent manor you should not ever be far off on the oil measurement.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by camarochevy1970 View Post
    Right, normally I check hot and cold as well. That edge not having oil on it is messing with me. I don't understand how a stick submerged in oil can come out with an edge not covered
    PM sent

  23. #48
    Thanks. Your PM was correct, the area circled is what I was questioning

    IMG_20200525_073831__01.jpg

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Truckin View Post
    Subscribed for group buy...
    I'm in.

    Quote Originally Posted by camarochevy1970 View Post
    You see what I mean about the oil not being on that one edge though right?
    My 13 has the angled dipstick and it doesn't even do that.

  25. #50
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    I am not in any way an expert, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

    Based on my read of your dipstick, your oil could be dangerously low. If you dip a stick straight down in water, there’s a defined line that shows how deep it went. The whole stick is wet below that line, and dry above it. Unless contaminated by a water repelling substance, no part of the stick that was under water should be dry. Obviously we’re dealing with different shapes and materials when discussing a metal dipstick in oil but to me, the same principle should apply.

    If someone splashed water on the stick, as opposed to submerging it, then only part of it -one side, for instance- would be wet. If you check your oil the way most of us were taught, by pulling the dipstick out, wiping it clean, then reinserting it and pulling it out a second time to check the level, you may have inadvertently transferred oil from the dipstick to the tube on the first pull. Then when you reinsert the dipstick, some of that oil transfers - like the stick that’s been splashed by water- back onto the dipstick. You never get a clean line in that case. And if the splash or transfer happens to go up to the SAFE mark, it may appear as though your oil level is full, when it isn’t.

    Follow the instructions in your owners manual. Check your oil a few minutes after shutdown and only pull the stick once.

    My car is like many others where the dipstick reads the same whether I pull it shortly after shutdown, or the next morning. But others have noted differences, so stick to the instructions in your manual. And if there isn’t a level, consistent line where the oil level tops out, you are likely getting transfer from the dipstick tube. I hope that helps!


 
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