depends on the dealer. To me the car has enough power and sound, not worth risking warranty for a little extra power
I never tried an upgraded radiator but someone else on here did (Karl, I think). Didn't really help. He tried various things (removing hood vents, removing weatherstrip at back of hood, Viper engine covers, etc.) to get the car to cool down, not much helped though. He also changed out the water pump with one that had closer tolerances (he got it from Arrow). I believe the water pump helped. Dick Winkles (engine designer) said car is ok up to about 250 or 255 coolant but the PCM will start pulling timing below that number. Plus the dash starts flashing a red warning at 240 which is a bit disconcerting.
There are some threads on here about cooling that are worth reading. Here's one:
https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...ht=track+temps
I had the Arrow controller on my 2016 ACR w/ belanger headers/hi flow and exhaust. I had high temp issues at multiple tracks, car even shut down a pit out. . On my 2017 ACR I only did the headers cats and exhaust and I have had no high temps. Same basic car, set up , and tracks of similar temps. Only difference was the Arrow controller. Other Illinois club members with the controller have experienced same high heat temps. Its my understanding that if your motor goes and there is any indication that the controllers had been swapped you kiss warranty good bye. FCA can verify somehow by the mileage in the computer if the controller had been swapped. I don't know how much HP the controller made but the throttle response was much improved.
A friend in a bone stock 2014 GTS was at the track the same day I was there in my 2015 TA 2.0. I had full Bellanger headers and exhaust with the Arrow controller. His car was just as it came from the factory. We were running similar lap times. His temps were 239 mine were 241. No appreciable difference with or without the Arrow controller. I did multiple tests - with Arrow controller, without Arrow controller, without under drive pulley, with under drive pulley. No statistical difference.
Re warranty, while FCA did originally deny engine claims for three cars with the Arrow controller they eventually reversed that decision as examination of the bearings that failed showed they failed due to debris not detonation or something that could have been caused by the PCM. There are several threads on this site concerning this.
The basic problem with the Gen 5 re cooling is the air inlet in the front bumper is too small and the engine compartment is too tight as compared to a Gen 4.
There looks to be significant opportunity to pull air into the engine compartment from underneath the car. The underbody has a panel in front of the engine that could potentially be ported to allow air to be driven into the engine compartment. The real issue may be how to get the air back out (preferably someplace up at hood level and near the rear of the engine compartment so that you have some lateral flow up and out of the car just before the windshield).
Arrow PCM is $1100~$1200 and disables the rear o2 sensors and not the fronts/primary's. Also if anybody is curious about the uncatted gasoline smell; it really doesn't bother me much and I can hardly smell it. There is not an abundance of exhaust that comes into the cabin with the windows down or up in my experience. My girlfriend didn't even notice the smell and she hardly tolerates anything car related (working on fixing that lol). Even when I do smell the uncatted exhaust, it smells like race fuel/C16 and isn't actually too bad haha.
As for the heat issues, I didn't want to play around. I have the full uncatted ARH setup with all the drone. I got every inch of the exhaust ceramic coated inside and out (Except the inside of the mufflers), and I wrapped every inch of the exhaust with DEI titanium wrap. Underhood temps are noticeably lower when I open the hood, nothing has melted, and the side sills hardly even get warm. Very glad I coated and wrapped everything because the heat isn't an issue at all.
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