A few questions on changing a clutch and flywheel.

[Troublemaker]

I have done a few clutches over the years, but never on a Viper. I there anything different on these that keep it from being a DIY job? I have to dust the trans jack off, but it looks like it will fit up into the tunnel. It's one of those jobs I would like to tackle on my own, but I don't want to find out it takes some special tool and I realize I'm in over my head.

[RTTTTed]

You're familiar with the clutch line coupler?

Do NOT bump the input shaft assy on the bellhousing when you pull the tranny! That has cost me $650 when I bought a new clutch slave from Chrysler. I bought the one after that for $165 after doing research. There is a How To thread on www.thevipergarage.com with pictures and description on how to re and re the trans. There are also threads on the website suggesting 5th and 6th gear upgrades for hug performance increase after 130mph ... It is tight and a big job on these cars though.

[Luisv]

The top two bolts on the trans are a pain. I suggest extensions. Get a couple of long ones and it'll be easy from way back where you have some space. Also removing the shifter is not easy, but doable. It's tight and patience helps. Drive shaft shaft, trans bracket are cake.

I do have a couple of suggestions....

While you are in there, replace the clutch slave. They go bad and if you are there, swap it. Also, while up there get a skip shift delete kit. Last suggestion, if you are there, get a poly trans mount if you don't already have it. A bunch of folks have the mount. Easy to get.

When swapping the slave, bleeding it is a bit of a pain. It took me a bit and a lot of fluid... But got it done.

Other than that.... Not difficult at all and it's likely like the others you've done

[Fatboy 18]

I have heard its wise to change the pilot roller bearing too on the back of the crankshaft, you pack it with grease then tap into the grease with a metal shaft the same diameter and the grease pushes the bearing out, I believe Chuck Tator recommends this

[VoodooRob]

As suggested above make sure to do pilot bearing and slave cylinder. The Luk clutch pack comes with a pilot bearing. Check the side of your trans for the proper fluid fill. The job is not a big deal, did by myself over a weekend. I purchased extensions with wobble ends for getting at the two top bolts, believe you need over 2 or 3 feet of extension to make it easier. I also made some aluminum dowel rods to line up the trans to bellhousing when sliding everything back together. Look up everything mentioned above and also Dave's how to on the alley.

[Glen97]

If you have completed other clutch jobs you can do the Viper. Like Luisv said extensions from the rear is the trick. Leave the bell housing on the engine.
Glen

[Troublemaker]

I finally caved and had it done. The rear main seal was leaking also so I just dropped it off with someone familiar with the task. On a side note, I'm not 100% sure I like the lightened flywheel, hopefully it's something I get used to, it feels foreign right now.

[Fatboy 18]

I finally caved and had it done. The rear main seal was leaking also so I just dropped it off with someone familiar with the task. On a side note, I'm not 100% sure I like the lightened flywheel, hopefully it's something I get used to, it feels foreign right now.

Im with you on the Flywheel, it does feel odd, when you depress the clutch the power comes off the engine really quickly causing the nose to dip, I also found a few more revs when pulling away are needed to prevent stalling! It also felt different on track at Le mans, I had to keep my eye on the rev counter (i don't tend to short shift).

[95Viper]

Had you used one of the Bad Boy Garage Heritage clutch assemblies you would have a slightly lighter flywheel but not too light,,, I installed the heritage stage 3,,, smooth as butter, ez shifts, keeps the rpm but revs a little faster... overall the best clutch I have had in any car I've built and by far the BEST customer service EVER.... Toddy is just a super guy.