Water Pump Failure Question

[Texaspettey]

I just completed a flush and coolant swap on my 2001 GTS. After I filled with the new coolant, the temp runs right up to the red zone within 2 minutes just at idle. The heater is blowing cold air. That would signal a water pump failure based on my previous car experience. Is there another possible diagnosis? It seems odd that the water pump would work fine, then completely fail after just a flush. I would have expected it to fail gradually, first visible under heavier load. It isn't leaking and the system holds pressure just fine. Since water pumps are expensive and hard to find for Gen2, I'd like to get other options off the table.

[Boosted Motorsports]

Probably air in the system and around the thermostat causing it not to open. Did you flush/fill both the surge tank and overflow tank? Check the line has no air leaks going to overflow tank?

[98RedGTS]

Yeah, I agree, probably air in the system. I just went through this when I changed my radiator. Thought I had everything filled correctly but their was an air pocket in the system. Got it cleared out and all was good again.

[Texaspettey]

Thanks. I was under the assumption that the heater would still blow hot if the thermostat was closed. Since the heater was blowing cold while the temp was running hot. I discounted the thermostat. When you were running hot, did the heater still blow cold?

I did fully fill and purge using the thermostat plug. I got just over 12 quarts added in and filled the surge tank.

[dave6666]

Since water pumps are expensive and hard to find for Gen2, I'd like to get other options off the table.

Not sure where you are getting your info from but brand new OEM pumps are in stock for $165 each. I just bought several. Is $165 really baller money for Viper owners these days?

...filled the surge tank.

You also need to fill the overflow tank. It will singularly make your system malfunction like you describe if it is not correctly filled. Most people have no clue how the system works or that the overflow tank even exists.

[dave6666]

Also... take note that flushing the system does absolutely nothing to remove the deposits in the radiator. If you were hoping for improved cooling performance because the radiator will work better now, ain't gonna happen. Although there are plenty here that will claim the flush did this and that blah blah blah lol. WATER DOES NOT DISSOLVE MINERAL DEPOSITS. Nor do flushes sold at auto parts.

[AZTVR]

I just completed a flush and coolant swap on my 2001 GTS. After I filled with the new coolant, the temp runs right up to the red zone within 2 minutes just at idle. The heater is blowing cold air. That would signal a water pump failure based on my previous car experience.

Just as an FYI, the 2001 model year water pump has a known history of some of them having an impeller that spins on the shaft. That would seem to be more of a high RPM failure; but, maybe yours is very loose. Perhaps you just have air in the system, or maybe you have air plus a failing water pump which combined to make an extreme situation.

Just guessing at possibilities.

[MH60M]

My 2001 GTS water pump failed last month and did the exact same things as you described. On the "performance" viper forums, I was informed to remove the water pump to heater core line at the heater core, extend it into a bucket, and start up the car. It should flow like a garden hose if the water pump is working......mine did not.

I filled up all my coolant tanks after the pump replacement and it purged itself in 2 drives....without any burping.

Dave is correct, OEM water pumps are available. They are new-builds from Dodge and available for about $165.

[Texaspettey]

Thanks for the info on $ for the new pumps and failure modes. I called one dealer and was given a different price and a long wait. The parts stores all don't have them. I'll check around more dealers.

This was the first time I've flushed it since getting it. I had it out at the track, so it did see a lot of high RPM work. Perhaps I just got lucky that it failed after the event and not during.

[lmn]

Try one of the online mopar dealers, like moparpartsonline for the pump if you want OEM. The parts stores sell remans for a reasonable price. On a related note I have my radiator out and I can see that is pretty clogged, my car has only 20K miles btw. I am going to take it to the local radiator shop and see what they can offer me. Does anyone know firsthand if any of the chemical flushes help with the mineral deposits, or are rodding or re-coring the only options?

[My98RT10]

You are saying it is your first time doing the flush.... I recently had to renew my coolant due to a TC gasket leak, but I did it already 2 times before... here's how it works for me:

In order to get the full amount of 12 quarts into the system I do it step by step. When I put in coolant in the first step I am only able to fill it up to 6 quarts I believe (approx.). Then I start the engine, let it idle until temp goes up to 195° F. Then I shut down the engine and wait some time until the thermostat opens. I am then able to fill in another 3 quarts (approx.). I start the engine, let it idle until temp is at 195° F again and shut down. Wait to cool down a bit until I can open the cap of the expansion tank again to fill in another 3 quarts. So it takes me 3 iterations until I have the full amount of coolant back in the system. After that, temp wanders between 190-195° F and I am done.

So, as you are saying you have the full amount of 12 quarts in the system, I would think that there cannot be that much air left in it. Probably the infamous impeller issue as mentioned already.

[71firebird400]

It hits "red" in less than 2 minutes? Are you sure the engine is actually getting this warm and it's not a sender/wiring failure?

[Lemay88]

Browse around in the forum for the hundreds of post about this.
You will find tons of answers/tricks on what could go wrong.
But one thing is sure, it is self purging it the system is in perfect condition.

Ben