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  1. #1

    Best way to secure the engine without the trans

    I'm going to be putting my engine in this weekend and was wondering what the easiest way to support the back of the motor is while the trans is not installed and still be able to transport the vehicle?

    My only thought (and I haven't thought a lot about it), would be to simply rig up some wood to bolt to the bellhousing treads and let it rest on the trans crossmember... Didn't think it would be wise to let the back end of the motor rest on the firewall (with a shim/spacer of course). Reason I want to get the motor in first is simply due to time and logistics, mccann will be able to get my car on the lift in 2 weeks which will make the trans 100x easier to get installed.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_VP View Post
    I'm going to be putting my engine in this weekend and was wondering what the easiest way to support the back of the motor is while the trans is not installed and still be able to transport the vehicle?

    My only thought (and I haven't thought a lot about it), would be to simply rig up some wood to bolt to the bellhousing treads and let it rest on the trans crossmember... Didn't think it would be wise to let the back end of the motor rest on the firewall (with a shim/spacer of course). Reason I want to get the motor in first is simply due to time and logistics, mccann will be able to get my car on the lift in 2 weeks which will make the trans 100x easier to get installed.

    Thoughts?
    You still have a stock intake? You could probably throw a strap-down through the first couple runners and go around the front crossmember brace. All you are really doing is balancing the engine so I would think that would be enough to hold it if you aren't doing anything wild.


  3. #3
    oooo that's an excellent idea..... No stock intake unfortunately


    IMG_20170419_194754.jpg

    but looking at it I bet I can still get a strap around it somewhere without it resting on anything damageable...

  4. #4
    Damnn! You putting that into a GEN II? What are the specs?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Boosted Motorsports View Post
    Damnn! You putting that into a GEN II? What are the specs?
    Yes. Just got back from Arrow. Fully built, the only thing that remains gen2 is the block. Gen 3 crank, new pistons, rods, lifters, bearings, their 750hp cam, their "stage 2" cnc ported gen 4/5 heads with the drag pak intake. Baseline was 702hp, and if I remember correctly 640tq. The tune is a tad rich and there's a few degrees of timing to be played with, so after I break it in a bit it'll get it's final tune for a bit more numbers. Ohh and overly safe compression ratio, like 10.65:1 or so, I beat the absolute shit out of my car and wanted a safe margin and didn't want to run 100 octane.

    Rev limit increased to 6500 as well. Bolting it up to a 2013 tr6060 (which will match the gen 5 acr ratios since I also am running a 3.55 rear end). Can't freaking wait I'm dying I've walked past my engineless car for too long!!!

  6. #6
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    Yes I made a bar that rests on the frame rails and supports the back of the engine. I'll be at work until tomorrow morning, I'll take a pic for you then if you'd like. Motor looks wicked.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Camfab View Post
    Yes I made a bar that rests on the frame rails and supports the back of the engine. I'll be at work until tomorrow morning, I'll take a pic for you then if you'd like. Motor looks wicked.
    Yeah that would be super helpful, I'd rather go that route just for the peace of mind. thanks a ton!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_VP View Post
    Yes. Just got back from Arrow. Fully built, the only thing that remains gen2 is the block. Gen 3 crank, new pistons, rods, lifters, bearings, their 750hp cam, their "stage 2" cnc ported gen 4/5 heads with the drag pak intake. Baseline was 702hp, and if I remember correctly 640tq. The tune is a tad rich and there's a few degrees of timing to be played with, so after I break it in a bit it'll get it's final tune for a bit more numbers. Ohh and overly safe compression ratio, like 10.65:1 or so, I beat the absolute shit out of my car and wanted a safe margin and didn't want to run 100 octane.

    Rev limit increased to 6500 as well. Bolting it up to a 2013 tr6060 (which will match the gen 5 acr ratios since I also am running a 3.55 rear end). Can't freaking wait I'm dying I've walked past my engineless car for too long!!!
    That sounds like its going to be a BEAST!!! Love the N/A approach as well! Make sure you take some videos of that thing when you fire it up, I wanna hear it!

  9. #9
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    Get a short piece of wood 2" x 4" with the transmission removed you can use a block of wood on the rear part of the engine and frame to support the block.

    Look at this picture, you can see where I positioned the block of wood
    20140913_173521 by Fatboy 18, on Flickr

  10. #10
    Excellent that will work perfectly then

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Boosted Motorsports View Post
    That sounds like its going to be a BEAST!!! Love the N/A approach as well! Make sure you take some videos of that thing when you fire it up, I wanna hear it!
    Thanks! The car sees lots of road course duty so it'll always be NA. I'm dying to hear it, the cam is HUGE it's going to sound so pissed off.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_VP View Post
    Thanks! The car sees lots of road course duty so it'll always be NA. I'm dying to hear it, the cam is HUGE it's going to sound so pissed off.
    I couldn't agree with you more there. I've had turbocharged vehicles in the past (607whp S2000) and I could no longer take it on lapping days cause it would build too much heat in several laps. Was awesome on the street and highway but I really wanted to do road course since it was designed for that purpose.

    Definitely be interested to see how your car performs and sounds! Keep us posted!

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Boosted Motorsports View Post
    I couldn't agree with you more there. I've had turbocharged vehicles in the past (607whp S2000) and I could no longer take it on lapping days cause it would build too much heat in several laps. Was awesome on the street and highway but I really wanted to do road course since it was designed for that purpose.

    Definitely be interested to see how your car performs and sounds! Keep us posted!
    I definitely will it should run really good I've done every cooling mod possible

  14. #14
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    You want a semi-permanent structure under the back of the engine. I just pulled my engine and mounted a piece of angle and bolted it to the bottom of frame. You do not have to drill into the frame, there are some gussets where the headers exit. This way when you are pulling or installing you can sort of drag/slide the bottom of the engine across angle, it makes it easier to pull or reinstall. The G5 service manual actually shows this method.

    Have you seen the Viper engine lifting bars. The G5 lists them as a mopar part number. Just guessing, but, they are probably available for all generations. In your pic, the open bolt hole at the front of the engine under the valve cover, that looks like the mounting hole for the front bar.
    Last edited by Jack B; 05-05-2017 at 09:47 PM.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Jack B View Post
    You want a semi-permanent structure under the back of the engine. I just pulled my engine and mounted a piece of angle and bolted it to the bottom of frame. You do not have to drill into the frame, there are some gussets where the headers exit. This way when you are pulling or installing you can sort of drag/slide the bottom of the engine across angle, it makes it easier to pull or reinstall. The G5 service manual actually shows this method.

    Have you seen the Viper engine lifting bars. The G5 lists them as a mopar part number. Just guessing, but, they are probably available for all generations. In your pic, the open bolt hole at the front of the engine under the valve cover, that looks like the mounting hole for the front bar.
    Yeah I borrowed that and the hoist from McCann. Knowing that there's clearance with the frame and engine is enough, I'll either use some wood or notched angle iron. It just needs to sit there a week and then be good for a 3 mile haul on the trailer to McCann's nothing crazy

  16. #16
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    Here is the support:

    DSC01687.jpg



    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_VP View Post
    Yeah I borrowed that and the hoist from McCann. Knowing that there's clearance with the frame and engine is enough, I'll either use some wood or notched angle iron. It just needs to sit there a week and then be good for a 3 mile haul on the trailer to McCann's nothing crazy

  17. #17
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    Ok, I had this thing buried away, but here it is...........

    IMG_3548.jpg
    IMG_3549.jpg
    IMG_3550.jpgIMG_3551.jpg
    IMG_3552.jpg

  18. #18
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  19. #19
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    Lots of good ideas, I tend to design specific tools for everything I do. Zero scratches, perfect positioning, no stress on mounts.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_VP View Post
    Yes. Just got back from Arrow. Fully built, the only thing that remains gen2 is the block. Gen 3 crank, new pistons, rods, lifters, bearings, their 750hp cam, their "stage 2" cnc ported gen 4/5 heads with the drag pak intake. Baseline was 702hp, and if I remember correctly 640tq. The tune is a tad rich and there's a few degrees of timing to be played with, so after I break it in a bit it'll get it's final tune for a bit more numbers. Ohh and overly safe compression ratio, like 10.65:1 or so, I beat the absolute shit out of my car and wanted a safe margin and didn't want to run 100 octane.

    Rev limit increased to 6500 as well. Bolting it up to a 2013 tr6060 (which will match the gen 5 acr ratios since I also am running a 3.55 rear end). Can't freaking wait I'm dying I've walked past my engineless car for too long!!!
    Drool

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Camfab View Post
    Lots of good ideas, I tend to design specific tools for everything I do. Zero scratches, perfect positioning, no stress on mounts.
    Yours looks perfect. I'm going to take the easy way out and just notch some angle iron and call it good

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACR_VP View Post
    Yours looks perfect. I'm going to take the easy way out and just notch some angle iron and call it good
    Sounds good! But not nearly as good as that nasty motor, it's going to rock!
    Last edited by Camfab; 05-07-2017 at 02:48 AM.

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Camfab View Post
    Sounds good! But not nearly as good as that nasty motor, it's going to rock!
    Thanks! I can't freaking wait, had it apart last summer fixing something else, and had it back together for a track day where it proceeded to destroy a lifter, jamming the cam, breaking the chain, and you can guess the rest.... So I've been without it really for like 2 years. But alas it's in...

    IMG_20170507_163000.jpgIMG_20170507_163037.jpg

  24. #24
    Lookin good! I finally got mine back. Been working on it the last couple days

    IMG_6844.jpg
    Last edited by QuikHD; 05-21-2017 at 09:52 PM.

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by QuikHD View Post
    Lookin good! I finally got mine back. Been working on it the last couple days

    IMG_6844.jpg
    Your's looks just a little bit less dirty lol I'm currently fabricating the intake box right now, and looking for the right filter that doesn't take a long time to get (I believe it was aem that has a 9" oval filter with one 5" single inlet) I'm running the idle air controller to the box via it's own hose and it's own small filter for simplicity.

    One thing to note is arrow capped the PCV, so you definitely are going to want to run a vented catch can off both valve covers.


 

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