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Thread: Dash issues

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  1. #1
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    Dash issues

    Hey Gang,

    Still on the hunt for a good 1996 GTS and what I'm noticing is the dashes on these things are very easily scuffed and generally, the biggest eyesore on the inside. So I'm wondering if anyone makes a replacement dash cover, how difficult they are to install, or if anyone has done anything to recover theirs in vinyl or a carbon fiber wrap like material?

    Thoughts?

    Cheers

    Dave

  2. #2
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    What most folks do is either purchase a used replacement dash and repaint to their favorite color and save the original. Or, remove the existing dash repaint and reinstall.

    The original "fuzzy paint" has a definite life span and there is no easy way to replicate it.

  3. #3
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    So I own a 96 GTS and I don't even TOUCH my dash. The way I get the dust off is with light compressed air. Never wipe it with anything never mind using a liquid on it of any type..
    Fortuitously my dash is mint. Good luck with your quest..
    PS, since its a 96, I would try and put it back to as close to original as you can...
    But that's my thinking anyways...
    Last edited by daveg; 04-14-2017 at 09:59 AM.

  4. #4
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    It's been said in other threads on here to remove it , use easy-off oven cleaner to remove the layer. Then paint it with a flat paint which which I can't remember. I didn't know about the easy off so I spent about 4 hours wet sanding. Repainted with a semi-gloss. Looks great. I'm going to have it hydro-dipped in carbon fiber over the winter for something different.

    Do a search, there are a few other threads on this.

  5. #5
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    I just went thru replacing the dash on my 96. It's an easy job to say the least. And the original dash is flat black not fuzzy paint. I actually clean my dash with rubbing alcohol when necessary takes all the shiny stuff off. When I initially replaced the dash I thought i received the wrong dash. After speaking to Jon B. and seeing a low mile 96 the dash was flat black. While my passenger side air bag was semi gloss because of years of armor all products the alcohol took care of that.
    Last edited by Bluesnake; 04-14-2017 at 02:14 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluesnake View Post
    And the original dash is flat black not fuzzy paint.
    I think he means the soft layer that scratches easy. It is easy just to remove and repaint which is better imo.

  7. #7
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    Carbon Dipped mine Satin Finish.



    I also had the window cowl dipped too but finished in gloss lacquer


    I like it, but some prefer to keep their car 100% Stock.

  8. #8
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    Wow! That really looks awesome! Where did you get that done? Fantastic looking. Thanks for the help guys.

    Cheers
    Dave

  9. #9
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    Just google hydro dipping in your part of the world, im sure you can find some places that do it

    its basicly a water transfer film, the part is dipped into a tank of water, the film on the top of the water sticks to the part, then it is lacquered over with clear coat.


  10. #10
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    While the original dash is flat black in color, it does have a flocking agent giving it a soft easily scratched touch. Anyone that can figure out how to replicate that would make a few bucks on us early GENII owners.

    Possibly something like this: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catago...FUm5wAoddh4EfQ
    Last edited by Ron; 04-15-2017 at 04:26 PM.

  11. #11
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    If you end up redoing it, you need to be careful with the "easy oven-off". If you leave it on too long it does start to degrade and pit the plastic.

  12. #12
    I took mine out (96 GTS) and peeled the coating off, piece by piece, under warm water. It's a tedious job, especially around the gauge bezels, but works great and no chemical burns. I got a quote of $450 for hydro-dipping it locally, but I don't think it even looks that good, so I'm going to just paint it with some dash-paint.

  13. #13
    I'd be very interested if anyone has a recommendation for paint that matches the factory color.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 71firebird400 View Post
    I'd be very interested if anyone has a recommendation for paint that matches the factory color.
    I was told before I found a NOS dash that SEM Color Coat was a perfect match in flat black. I used this product on the radio bezel which was satin black. The results were excellent.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by 71firebird400 View Post
    I'd be very interested if anyone has a recommendation for paint that matches the factory color.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bluesnake
    I was told before I found a NOS dash that SEM Color Coat was a perfect match in flat black. I used this product on the radio bezel which was satin black. The results were excellent.
    The SEM products have great reviews and ZZ SRT recently posted pics of his dash which he painted SEM "Landau Black" on this page: https://driveviper.com/forums/thread...bo-Build/page7 (sroll down)

    Here's what it looked like, better than OEM in my opinion:




  16. #16
    Thank you, Bluesnake & Coupe.

  17. #17
    Anyone know what shifter and ashtray piece that car has? really like both of them.

  18. #18
    Ask help from the veteran installers, why not visit Gatorwraps and request for a quote. I believe they have installers for a vinyl wrap in all major cities.

  19. #19
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    Hello, Ed Adamchek here again, new New Eng. member. I re-did my original dash with a walnut burl stick-on kit, I get complimeant all the time. Then, when I was able to afford it, I bought a new, OEM replacement dash & stored it away; the only problem was that I couldn't locate an upper center-console panel new, so I found & bought an immaculate black used one & I'll have to have it re-dyed to match the gray. The old, previously ugly one looks great & I left it on. WARNING, BEFORE YOU PUT ON THE GLOVE BOXPANEL, YOU MUST USE 800 or 1,000 grit EMORY PAPER TO TAPER THE BOTOM EDGE, OR YOU'LL BREAK THE PLASTIC ARMS OF THE G.B. DOOR WHEN YOU CLOSE IT. REFINISHING THE EDGE CAN BE EASILY DONE WITH BIRCHEOOD-CASEY WALNUT STAIN & GUNSTOCK HAND APPLIED (with clean, oil free fingertips, rub on 3 thin coats, allowing 2 days drying time between). Using naked, oil-free fingertips allows a blending which may only require 1,000 grit light finishing after the 1st & 2nd coats, the 3rd should be very light, just to add a finis gloss. try to apply the stock finish indoors, at room temp or cooler, so drying time of the 3rd coat especially is extended - this allows for minimal surface markings from touching it as it dries & thickens. Plus, the kit was only about $200-$250. Good Luck, Ed

  20. #20
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    CORRECTION: YOU MUST TAPER THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE G.B. DOOR WALNUT VENEER PANEL, SO YOU DON'T BREAK THE GB DOOR ARMS WHEN OPENING THE GB. Sorry, Ed

  21. #21
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    Darn it; THE FINISHING PRODUCT IS BIRCHWOOD-CASEY GUNSTOCK FINISH (similar to a varnish). Ed

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Adamchek View Post
    Darn it; THE FINISHING PRODUCT IS BIRCHWOOD-CASEY GUNSTOCK FINISH (similar to a varnish). Ed
    Pics please of said "BIRCHWOOD-CASEY GUNSTOCK FINISH" on a Viper Dash...or it never happened.

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by MH60M View Post
    Pics please of said "BIRCHWOOD-CASEY GUNSTOCK FINISH" on a Viper Dash...or it never happened.
    He said he added stick on wood dash panels. I assume the gunsock finish was over that.

  24. #24
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    For what its worth there is a early Gen II dash for sale in the classifieds. It needs a bit of work but could be great to practice on (with paint textures)

  25. #25
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    Oh look at that!
    I was wonder what the OP was talking about.
    I never actually realized that the earlier Gen II's had a different dash than my '98.
    Is it that type of rubberish paint? Because that is horrible to deal with and then I definetly feel your pain...


 
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