Cannot wait for the write up on what you think when it's done.
Cannot wait for the write up on what you think when it's done.
What kinda of HP numbers are people seeing from HEAD/CAM kits, considering most of them have already installed full exhaust systems
Dyno queen numbers don't do anything for me, I honestly only consider trap speeds (at comparable DAs) as the true judge of a cars' power production.
To that end, I haven't seen any data from more than half of the shops mentioned, and haven't seen anyone go faster than 143mph with any shop mentioned as well (with heads/cam).
Any reason it was less than the last sneaky snake? Both were corrected? Car is beautiful by the way!!
No clue. Last one made 605/560 with the same mods on that dyno. Could be atmospheric conditions, could be a tighter motor, could be the position of the moon, who knows. The car runs its ass off on the street so I'm happy with it.
With today's smoke n mirrors from shops about power levels and how much is x and y mod really worth, I wanted to have a baseline so I could establish my own delta.
congrats on the numbers!....
also congrats on pissing off those on IG.. gotta love that...lol
It doesn't hurt that you know what you're doing! Most people don't drive a manual properly! Do you think the Gen V is faster than your VVO Gen IV?
Clean snake is happy snake.
Being respectful around the office;
Ordered some mats to replace the wafer thin stockers. Had Lloyds in my previous Viper and they make a great quality mat. Thick pile, good stitching, yeah I'm excited about a floor mat..
You can design a set on their website, with different color borders, inlay, etc.
Out with the old;
In with the new;
One annoying thing about the car is the way the decklid opens--or doesn't in this case. You hit the trunk release button on the key or fob, the latch unlocks, but if you go to tug the trunk open it's actually still engaged to the secondary latch. The reason is there is not enough pre-load in the latch mechanism to force the decklid up above the secondary latch when released. So, opening the trunk takes 2 hands, you have to hold the button and pull on the trunk at the same time. Definitely first world problems, but annoying as hell as when you need the trunk and don't have 2 free hands available (which is every time you walk up to the car carrying something).
There is a fix however, which came on the last year gen 5s ('17). They replaced the bump stops with a spring loaded plunger which pops the trunk over the secondary latch and actually opens the trunk with a button press. Install is pretty straightforward, just unscrew your old stops and screw in the new. Unfortunetaly for me, the new plungers body OD is greater than the old, and I actually had to enlarge the holes. Very simple to do with a grinding cone on a drill, but nerve racking as hell, as I definetely didn't want to ruin the expensive-as-all-hell carbon trunk-lid.
Cleaning the contact surface for the plunger with alcohol and gluing down a slick pad (which prevents the plunger from binding along the surface on trunk closing).
Not gonna fit as-is;
Grinding carbon hurt my soul;
Finished product, all installed, worth the effort for sure;
https://www.instagram.com/p/BaQZnahF...y=sneakysnakes
A step bit works even better and takes 5 seconds per side Did this on both cars. Car is looking great Alex, can't wait until you have the HC on it.
May have missed it, but what do you use for a foam cannon when washing?
I would have been terrified to tamper with that beautiful trunk! Do they have a fix for the trunk pop on G3's?
BTW I loved how many people were getting fired up on that dyno post (on IG)... LOL
I didn't know you painted your nails.
If i was smart enough to think of that, I would have LOL.
I can't wait either!
I use just a cheapie Amazon one:
https://www.amazon.com/DUSICHIN-SFL-...ds=foam+cannon
Paired with this electric pressure washer;
Don't know, good question. You could probably replace the bump stops on yours with these as well?
Tony (nineball) was kind enough to let me borrow his Racelogic PBOX to do some 60-130 baseline runs.
I made 3 pulls tonight, with a best time of 6.87 seconds (2 shifts). I was getting wheel spin pretty bad through the 2-3 shift, with my first run being the quickest. I don't know if that's the result of a glazed clutch with softer engagement for the subsequent runs, or whether I just managed to keep wheel spin down on the 2-3 shift enough on the first pass to buy an extra tenth. I also noticed that the Viper speedo is DEAD on to the GPS indicated speed, and doesn't read artificially high like most cars I've been in.
Conditions for run;
71* Ambient (+800ft DA)
Pirelli Pzero Corsa (32psi)
3/4 Tank of gas
Full weight
Inclination data included in chart.
Good number, with a 6800 rpm rev limit , third would go to 131 mph and just need one shift. That number would look even better.
Very good number. The best that I was able to get was 6.91 sec 60-130 and that was with the VE heads and cam. Don't remember the temperature that day, but it wasn't horrible hot, because it was middle of January. It showed to run a touch over 135 1/4 mile speed. I haven't had a chance to run my car on the v box since the nth moto build. But Aaron logged it in the 5's before it left his place. Not sure of the altitude at his place, but it is definitely higher than here at sea level. It will be interesting now that you have a baseline before you have the heads and cam, what kind of gain there will be.
Nice shifting!!
So if it wasn't completely evident from my not-so-subtle hints in previous posts, the car has been dropped off at Viper Exchange for their Stage II Heads/Cam package. Since this question will undoubtedly be asked first, lets get it out of the way. The reasons for me choosing VE over the other options in the market are 3-fold for me;
(1) Engineering. I am very big proponent of validating designs through empirical testing, as it's a large part of what I do for a living. The VE package had been tested and revised on mules for over a year and a half before its release (and now another 2 years since then). Its been tested in hot climates, cold climates, high elevations, on track, on street, all for thousands of combined miles, with a focus of hitting that goldilocks spot; A balance between increased output, factory-esque drive-ability, and reliable operation. The ecu calibration was written by Dick Winkles, and to me, is as close to an oem solution as one can hope for outside of SRT themselves selling a kit. The man not only designed the engine itself, but also helped develop the engine management software. Aside from going with a standalone, all other heads/cam options will utilize an Hptuners piggy back. I've been down the HPtuners road with my gen 4 to ill results, never again. Letting someone I don't know, tune my pride and joy with beta software that has access to less than a 1/3 of the factory PCM tables is of zero interest to me. Some feel otherwise, they say its no risk, its all been worked out, hptuners is great, etc. And thats fine, its their money, car, and motor to gamble.
(2) Trust in execution. Plain and simple, the greatest engineered kit in the world is worth exactly dick, if someone makes a stupid mistake while installing it. Being that Morgan (the VE viper tech) has installed nearly 100 of these kits, I think its safe to say he knows what he's doing. He's efficient, detail oriented, and knows exactly the things to pay particular attention to during the install process. I've seen this first hand as he's worked on every Viper I've owned, and done so for almost 5 years. Being as OCD as I am, he's the only person who works on my car in a manner with which I'm comfortable.
(3) Results. There's tons of hype, tons of media presence from certain shops, but most rarely actually turn the numbers. I've seen multiple VE set up heads/cam cars go single digits (some in person). If other gen 5 packages have done the same, I've yet to see some slips, and not just jaw jacking on the internet.
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